A fw of you have heard me talk about redoing my stock seat. I have been promising a write-up, so here it is. The goal of this mod was to open the back half of the seat to allow storage space under the rear seat cowl. I rarely ride a passenger, but still wanted to from time to time so I bought a stock seat from another member and rode that in the mean time. My seat had a tear in it and was looking pretty faded so that is the one I cut up. 1. Cut rear portion of seat cover and foam. To get a reference point, I took a marker and drew a line where the rear seat cowl sat and cut about an inch behind that. 2. Cut the seat pan. I used an angle grinder to cut a square out of the seat pan and then sanded the edges with a drill sanding wheel. 3. Saddle foam mod. I decided while I was at it I would try a little memory foam in the middle of my saddle for the comfort of the junk. 3a. I cut the center of the foam out with a pocket knife. 3b. After fitting my piece of memory foam, I found it WAY softer than the original foam which felt good except where it met with the edge of the original foam. This created ridges on either side. 3c. The ridges were there because the memory foam compressed much further than the stock. So I cut a portion of the removed stock foam and placed it under the memory foam. --After this was done and it was sit tested, the ridges were gone and I figured it was worth covering now. My idea was to cover with cordura or some other sturdy back pack material. I wanted the durability without extra cost. So I set off to contact a guy I know who does auto upholstery. 4. Buy a Sargent. Screw it and quit being such a cheap ass Drewl! 5. And while you're at it...how about some new Continental Road Attacks? ...and some stock style black levers and a carbon fiber triple cover too. So that's how I modded my seat. The End.
Seat Rebuild Since Sargent does NOT make a World seat for the 3rd gen, I started just like you. Next I went to DIYMotorcycleSeat.com - Home Page And followed the simple to follow instructions and had my front seat recoverd in their best exterior boat vinyl with white stitching. Now, using the rear cowl and front seat only, I have a storage area. For 2 Up, back goes a stock seat (for the meantime). See simple. Oh, can't see, I'll add pics later, but you get the idea. Larry
Drewl; Help me out here, I am pretty sure the fifth gen seat latches in the back,so if you remove the back half of the seat what holds the front half on? eddie
That is why I cut the hole in the pan instead of just lopping off the whole rear end. The latch is all the way at the back. My design was to open it up while still providing support for the seat.
Holy crap, Bro! Did you chew through that seat pan?, or cut it with a broken piece of glass? :biggrin: Sargent w/yellow welt, FTW.
The rear cowl holds it down. It sounds like it doesn't work, but it does & works quite well. The front portion has two big plastic hooks that go under the metal cross bar. Those hooks coupled with the fork on the front of the seat hold it in place quite adequately. Once the cowl is in place, there is no way the seat can come off. KC-10 FE out... lane: :usa2:
Yeah I didn't think it would work either. The front actually sits down in a bit so it does not slide back. I speed tested it at reg's last weekend, did not budge.
We touched on this in Derstuka's sargent thread with questions from drewl... THREAD LINK HERE Original Post: Stability is fine. I don't think you understand how the seat is actually held on with the seat cowl. In order for the front seat to move, it has to move upwards as it moves backwards. Since the seat cowl covers the back portion of the seat, it prevents the seat from moving upwards at all, hence no backwards movement. And all the pressure is dispersed equally on the cowl.
