Stock fan amp draw?

Does anyone know what the amp draw is for a stock fan?
(Yes, I have a good reason for asking. LOL)

 

Nope! But I am interested in the reason.

 

Well, depending on the amp draw of the stock fan, I was thinking about possibly upgrading the fan on the bike. If it's over 5-6 amps, then I could possibly run a dual fan setup, with an aftermaket fan I found.

 

Ok, after doing a lot of trolling around, I found this on VFRD:
Radiator Fan - Modification Questions - VFR Discussion

If post #4 is right about the amperage, then the stock fan sucks something fierce! No wonder the R/R fries!

The fans I'm looking at have an amp draw of about 3, but a CFM rating of 2200... and given that they are only 2.5" thick, they aren't any thicker than the stock fan.

I will have to do some measuring, but I think I may have found one of my next mods/upgrades for my VFR.

 

50A start-up and 30A continuous running? I think the guy in the link has his wires crossed (pun intended)... The fuse is only 10A, so it can't draw any more than that while running. If it's a slow blow fuse, it might be ok for higher current during start-up. Note that starting current is around three times running current (rule of thumb). I reckon the running current is likely to be around 3A, and start-up current around 9A, but I haven't tested it to say for sure. I'm actually trying to find it myself, so I can figure out the correct H-bridge motor driver to use with an Arduino microcontroller for dual PWM control of the OEM fan (with VTR1000F blade) and a high flow case fan for the other side. I'll post back here if I find the answer.

 

Yeah, I thought that was stupid high as well. I found another thread, can't remember where at the moment, that listed the stock fan at closer to 9A constant, which would still put it higher than the fuse rating at startup, so I'm not too sure about it.
Either way, I'm fairly certain that the stock fan dosn't push anything near 2200 CFM. Which after making it a pusher type fan, would acutally be more around 1760 CFM.

Please post up what you find.

 

Will do. I suspect that I'll have to get the multimeter out and hope that its fuse doesn't blow when I kick it over...

 

Alrighty, I have the answer!

Testing method:
1: Drink a cider
2: Drink another cider
3: Look for multimeter and test leads. Drink 1/2 a cider while doing this.
4: Remove LHS fairing
5: Remove electrical connector from fan switch and install positive aligator lead onto connector and multimeter.
6: Install negative pin probe connector into multimeter's 10A slot, and turn multimeter on to 10A mode.
7: Ground point of pin probe onto radiator end tank, hold breath, and turn key in ignition.
8: Read and remember current values: start-up 7.something A, continuous 3.1A
9: Decide that the current limiting properties of the pin robe aren't needed (to stop the multimeter's fuse from blowing), and replace it with the negative aligator lead.
10: Clip negative aligator clip onto radiator mounting tab, and repeat the relevant parts of steps 7 and 8 twice more. Starting current 9.something A And 10.something A. Continuous current 3.1A and 3.1A.
11: Reinstall fan wiring and LHS fairing.
12: Dring remaining 1/2 cider while posting results on the forum!

So, there you have it! Maximum start-up current is at least 10.something Amps (test is inconclusive due to refresh rate of the multimeter and instantaneous reading ability of cider-affected operator). Continuous running current it 3.1 Amps, despite the limitations of the multimeter and operator.

 

13: Realise that there's at least one spelling mistake in the post on the forum.
14: Decide not to correct the spelling mistake(s), and "dring" another cider instead!

 

ROFL!!!

awesome, thanks man!

 

The VFR only produces just shy of 42 available amps so those figures are shart...

But the draw won't kill the RR, these have a shunt RR so any draw on the system takes load OFF the RR as the alternator runs full tilt 100% of the time and the RR bleeds off excess power as heat...