Sprocket wear

I just wanted to get some opinions on my sprocket wear for my 3rd gen. My bike has thrown the chain twice now, and as of last night resulted in needing some new fairings(long story). The chain tension has been set at factory spec of .06"-1" both times, and both times the chain has seemed to come apart at the master link. The link was properly installed and the retaining clip was in the correct position, so I don't know why the chain keeps coming apart. It is also a fairly new chain(about 3000 miles on it). Thinking it's time for a 520 conversion with a rivet master link. Thanks

 

useable

 

That's what I thought, I don't know why the hell it keeps throwing chains.

 

chain will be too tight at 1" slack. be sure to set tension at the tightest spot along the run as you turn rear wheel.

 

Shouldn't it be measured here?

 

Yes, however as you turn the rear tire you may find that the chain has less slack at a certain point. It is there that you should adjust the slack.

 

Good to know, I never knew that it needed to be rotated. Also, if 1" of slack is too tight(I was just using the specs from the factory service manual), what should the slack be? If I have been running the chain too tight that might have snapped the master link and be the cause of my issues.

 

BINGO !

 

What should the tension be set at? The only specs I've seen are the .6"-1" in the fsm

 

Tension it to one inch, and turn the rear tire till you find the tightest point, then recheck the tension at that point.
I like mine on the loose end of the tension window for two reasons. first, because it seems to be quieter and second because I think that it promotes less wear.

 

Yeah I ran mine on the loose end too, I just didn't know about the tight spot in the chain. I'll give it a shot

 

If you hear rattling noise when you turn the wheel backwards, you probably have a worn drive sprocket.

The rear one has a lot of teeth that get pulled on more evenly. The actual pull on the front sprocket is probably coming from 2-3 teeth at any given time, from my experience, small sprockets wear a lot quicker than big ones.

Motorcycle chains (all big chains especially)) tend to have tighter spots and looser spots, the tightest spot must fit in the spec..

Rolling on the highway

 

I have a completely unproven theory that an over-tightened chain is the cause of tight spots. As the suspension travels through a full arc it passes through the point where the sprockets are at their greatest separation, when they are in line with the pivot. If your chain is too tight I think this can slightly bend the chain pins that are bearing the load at the driven sprocket, which impedes their free movement and creates the tight spot.

I agree with setting the tension to the looser end of the range. If the chain has a significant tight spot I would replace it.

 

It's basically a new chain, I put it on after I bought the bike with 27k miles and I believe I'm at about 31k now. If I remember right my manual said to set the tension while the bike is on the side stand, do most of you guys adjust it while on the center stand? That may be another factor

 

I have read or imagined reading, that you have to check tension with rider and gear on the bike.. might be making this up tho.

Rolling on the highway

 

better way 2 doit.

 

I think the Service Manual, and Haynes manuals as well, for the 6th gen suggest just that. Have someone sit on it to compress the suspension. If you are going on a trip, load up the bike before you test the tension if you are really concerned about that. I never have though and have made several very long trips, and used to be quite a fat lardass too. Still a little that way still, but a little lard has gone.