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Sourcing Parts & Prices - need help

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Pliskin, Oct 5, 2012.

  1. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    As our winter draw nears, and my riding time will be limited, I figure its time to give the bike an overhaul. About 17,000 miles.

    For those that know my background, you know that turning a wrench just isn't in my blood, so I have no choice but to pay the dealer. I'm hoping that if I buy the parts over the next couple months, I'll at least save myself some money and be able to afford a jar of Vaseline.

    Here's a list of my things that "need" to be done - with a "want" thrown in. Not in any particular order.

    1. Chain and sprockets. Its reached the point of not being able to tighten up any more. I think I'll just stay with stock, otherwise I assume I have the added expense of a speed-o healer. Is DID the general choice here? Sprocket Center the place to order?

    What would be a fair price for a chain and sprockets? $200?

    2. Suspension. The bane of my bike. I'm 6' 2" and pushing 250#. Riding on stock suspension, and its been 4 years since I even had the oil changed in my forks. The don't leak, but they are shot. I'd really love to Race Tech the front, but that's some serious donero for my current circumstances. I'm looking at roughly:
    -$100+ for springs
    -$170 for gold valves (rebound)
    -$170 for gold valves (compression)
    -$30 for oil
    -$20 for seals and bushings

    $500.

    What sort of options do I have for the front? Should I just consider something like a 1.15 spring and some heavier oil?

    Keep in mind I don't do track days.


    3. If I dump a bunch of money into my front suspension, where does that leave me with my rear? I know Jamie D is a great option, but will my dealership install the spacer required to make it fit securely, or will they say no way due to insurance concerns? What kind of other choices do I have for the rear?

    Is it "bad/stupid" to only do the front, and not do the rear?

    Cost?

    4. Head bearings. I've noticed a very slight "click" up front when on the center stand and grabbing the bars. I suspect its the bearings. Don't know much about these at all, other than squirrelman hate the Chinese. And to be honest, if I can avoid buying anything that's made in China, I really do try.

    5. Brakes. They work fine, but closing on 20,000 miles its probably about time. Do I "need" to upgrade to SS lines? Should I stick with OEM rotors, or is there a lot to be gained for something like Galfer rotors? Anyone have a link to some competitive pricing?

    Pads - $40 for F & R = $80
    Rotors - $?

    Then there is the standard shit that needs to be done - probably have the plugs and fuel filter changed, along with brake and clutch fluid. I can actually handle the oil and coolant, lol.

    I'm looking for some guidance on what I need to do, and roughly how much I can expect to spend on parts.

    Thanks in advance for letting me how much money I need to part with. :biggrin:
     


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  2. silverbullet132

    silverbullet132 New Member

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    Your rotors should be fine. Lines should be changed after a few years as reccomended in the manual. Check out spiegler for your lines and pads :) Loved their customer service when I ordered my lines and pads.
     


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  3. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    I can help you out with springs and valving parts (DMr valves) at a much lower cost than you show here. Shoot me an email for an accurate quote, but for "forum" purposes consider the total about half of what you have above.

    I probably wouldn't bother replacing the rebound pistons. I normally only setup forks with those for the extreme aggressive street or >50% track setups. That would help save some money too. Just new shim stacks on the stock rebound pistons is all you need for the street.
     


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  4. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    PM sent. Thanks Jamie.
     


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