sorry about another charging issue thread

All,
Let me first give my apologies for posting yet another charging question but I have been searching the boards all day and have located most of my answers but a few.
Like many other I have had intermittent battery charging issues, one day I am push starting the thing and then for two weeks it will be fine. Today I decided that I was going to dig into it thinking the usual thoughts, R/R, broken wire, etc.
I performed the following tests, draw on the battery for grounds or shorts (test SAT), resistance on the black wires from the r/r (test SAT), actual voltage of the battery (test SAT) and finally resistance test of the three yellow wires from the r/r harness (no readings at all). This is where my questions lies, does this mean that the stator is shot? I admittedly have not performed a voltage output test yet and plan to this afternoon but got side tracked looking for this answer.
As I read the shop manual it reads like this test is performed with the bike off but wanted to ask and double check the knowledge out there. I have also read about the voltage output from the stator and what it should be at, my question here is do I just disconnect the plug while running?
I plan to have the bat load tested to see if it is shot as well. I can not see any burnt, broken or damaged wires or any signs of overheating for the matter. I did down load the flow chart from electrosport and will be following their trouble direction as well.
Any thoughts on the no reading from the 3 yellows would be very helpful and again sorry for yet another post on this.

 

I said tested the black wires in previous post but meant the green. This is how my day has been going.

 

Read the following with regards to stator test taken from this link:

Click here: Honda VFR Club - '98 VFR800FiW and '99 VFR800FiX Battery and Charging System Faults

To check the insulation of the alternator stator coils you'll need to do the following:-
1. Disconnect the R/R connection to the alternator - the one with the 3 yellow wires.
2. Select the resistance (Ohms or Ω) range on your multimeter and touch the two probe ends together. The readout on the multimeter will give you the effective zero reading - so if there is a value shown and your multimeter cannot be zeroed - as many cheaper ones can't be, you'll have to deduct this number from any further measurement.
3. On the three yellow wires coming from the alternator (not the ones from the R/R by accident) measure the resistance between each of the wires in turn, i.e. have one probe on the connection to one yellow wire, then touch the other probe to the connections for the other two yellow wires. So if one probe is one wire 1, place the other probe on wire 2 then 3. Then move the probe from wire 1 and put it on wire 2, then place the other probe on wire 3. That way all combinations are covered.
4. The resistance readings in step 3 should be anywhere between 0.1 Ohm and 1 Ohm - remember to deduct the resistance reading you got in step 2 from the values you saw in step 3.
5. Now test the resistance between each of the yellow wires and earth. There should be no continuity, i.e. infinitely high resistance, between any of the yellow wires and earth.
If the values in step 4 or step 5 are outside the tolerances, then there's a pretty good chance the alternator stator coils are knackered.

Hope this helps. I have a brand new R/R from Ricks waiting to be installed as my original Honda part was putting out 13.0Vdc at 5k, a drop from 13.7V at idle. $120 shipped for free with a one year warranty.

Click here: Rick's Motorsport Electrics - electrical parts for motorcycles, ATVs, dirtbikes, and other motor driven sport vehicles