Sigh -- Clutch engage issues.

Guys, I've done my best searching this forum, either I'm really freaking horrible at it, or it's really buried in here.

This is the deal.. I just got the 04 a few weeks ago, it was running great and I decided to replace some minor things, spark plugs and air filter. Few days before I replaced those, I laid the bike down in the garage, not a full drop maybe a foot or two onto the ground. Barely hit hard on its right hand side, replaced brake lever and mirror.

After that I started noticing the clutch was really weird. The lever was still nice and tight but it doesn't engage like it used to. Let me explain, say I have my lever completely out and I'm not touching it, let's say that's 100%. (with the lever adjuster all the way out, so there's no play) If I have it pulled all the way in, squeezing it hard, let's say that's 0%. When I first got the bike, I remember the clutch starting to engage at like 10-15%. Now, it's not engaging until 85%. So I have literally an inch of clutch action from fully out to.. maybe fully engaged.

I bled the system today, there wasn't a single air bubble at all. Fluid flowed out completely fine, and I think I may have made the clutch squishier than before, but I'm going to have to work on that later. I don't know a whole lot about clutches unfortunately, so I don't know how it works so I can't even begin to fathom why it's doing this.

I hopped on my friends bandit, 46,000 miles and not sure what his clutch history was. However, when I let the clutch out on that it's amazing, starts engaging at like 10% and has a full length of perfect smooth engagement, like my clutch once was.

Subsequently, I am noticing a small loss of power that I blamed on the spark plugs, until I checked their gap everything was fine. It's almost like once it hits VTEC or higher RPMs nothing really happens like it used to. I'm thinking that the clutch isn't fully engaging and it's not transferring all of the power, i.e. ruining some shit inside. After a hard ride on it, there's an odd burning smell that I can noticeably smell briefly after parking it.

I really need help here fellas, I'm at a complete loss and it's extremely frustrating because I usually like fixing things myself but this is my daily man, I can't go messing with stuff and hope it works. This whole problem makes me want to take the car to work in the morning because of how frustrating it is.

 

Sounds like it's time for a clutch inspection. If you're confident in your mechanical abilities then get a book and take it apart. If not, have someone who knows what to look for inspect it for you and show you what has worn out. It's a straight forward job if you take your time. It does sound like it's not fully engaging and there are a few things that can cause that.

 

Does anyone know of a place the sells an entire slave cylinder rebuild kit? Or have a list of required parts? I have a break down in the service manual but I don't know what is necessary to replace.

 

Burp the banjo bolt before you do anything else.

 

Elaborate please kind sir, there are two of them.

 

I'm referring to the one at the MC. It's the same procedure for both the brake and clutch.

From: http://vfrworld.com/forums/sixth-generation-2002-2007/13226-help-front-brake-not-working.html

You've got air stuck at the banjo bolt junction. The following procedure can be done with one person if you are dexterous.

The following procedure is commonly called "Burping the banjo".

Do this:
Prepare the banjo bolt for bleeding by cracking the banjo bolt to loosen it up and immediately tighten back with medium pressure so no more brake fluid comes out. You want to be able to easily loosen the banjo bolt - but not allow fluid to leak out when it is closed.

1. Pull the brake lever to about 1/2" from the grip.
2. Crack the banjo bolt to allow air/fluid out and immediately tighten again.
3. Release the brake lever.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 until the lever firms up. If the lever does not firm up, then you have air in the system at some junction point: calipers or junction block (if you have one)]

P.S. be sure to cover all surfaces as brake fluid makes a great paint remover.

 

as a vacuum bleeder was used by exxy to bleed his clutch...there is no need to burp the banjo.......

 

Well, I used the one man method found in the Honda service manual. I did not use a two-piece commercial vacuum bleeder.

 

Guys, I wanna thank you for the replies so far, I appreciate your help.

I "burped the banjo bolt" and it didn't have any affect. Yesterday I drained and bled the system with brand new fluids, you could definitely tell the different in color of the old and new fluids.

I looked closely at the master cylinder, specifically where the lever meets the "button" that compresses the fluids. I wonder if I were to somehow 'shorten' the pin the goes into the "button" if that would somehow *fix* my problem. If you think about it, it would decompress the button more per milimeter when I let the clutch out. I know that's probably not the right way to do it, but it also makes me wonder maybe that's not the right clutch lever at all, maybe it's been like this the entire time I've had it.

Question about your 6th gen clutches: 1) When does your clutch engage? Would it be around 10% like I described above? 2) Did NISSIN make the brakes and master cylinder for your VFRs? My brake system and master cylinder both say NISSIN on them. 3) Inside of your master cylinder, how many pieces are there? I have a cover, diaphram and a plastic thing that goes on top of the diaphram, then the bottom of the reservoir is open with a small hole in the bottom.

I wish I knew someone near me that owned a 6th gen VFR I could compare my clutch to.


Edit: I found a picture of the master on bikebandit.com, http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/schematics/Honda/HJ1004019032.gif
The button I was talking to you about was the push rod and boot (Rod is #1.) Now that I look at it, the insides are fairly complicated, maybe my spring is messed up? I could have had the clutch lever held as I dropped the bike, might have had something to do with misaligning that. Erm, maybe I'm thinking too much?

 

The hydraulic clutch is self adjusting. Unless the pin is worn or deformed, the system will adjust.

Another method to try is to turn the bars until the MC is at the highest point. Then bungee the lever closed and wait a day. See if this helps.

It's got to be air somewhere in the hydraulic system.