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semi urgent electrical question

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by silverbullet132, Mar 28, 2013.

  1. silverbullet132

    silverbullet132 New Member

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    Bought a new R/R kit and the stator side wiring on the supplied connector was too short. I have some solid copper wire about the same thickness, can I solder in an extension with that or is that a bad idea? Only needs 2-3".
     


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  2. VFRkat

    VFRkat New Member

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    I cut the plug off the original R/R connector and used the wire from that to solder to the kit's stator wiring. The length was just right. You end up with the OEM plug at one end the the supplied plug for the new R/R at the other. It's the black shrink wrapped portion with the yellow writing running behind the OEM harness in this picture. It kind of runs from bottom left to top right to the R/R.

    Hope this helps.

    [​IMG]
     

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    Last edited: Mar 28, 2013


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  3. silverbullet132

    silverbullet132 New Member

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    I cut the OEM connector stator side off 1cm behind the connector and soldered there, which ended up like the pic I will post in a sec.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


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  4. VFRkat

    VFRkat New Member

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    Yeah, you're definitely going to have to cut that again and solder in an extension. Soldering an extension isn't a bad idea but I've never used solid core wire in an automotive application. Since you're this far anyways I would cut out the solder joint you have there, that way when you're done the extension piece you only have 2 connections and not three. Measure twice, cut once my Dad always taught me ;)
     


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  5. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Here's a pic of stator wire extensions I used on my R/R rework. I use 12 gauge wire from the automotive parts store. I plan to check it every oil change. Hope this helps.


    [​IMG]
     


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  6. silverbullet132

    silverbullet132 New Member

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    That looks pretty good. I will hit up the local partsource and grab some cable tomorrow :) Thanks!
     


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  7. JasonWW

    JasonWW New Member

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    They dont use solid core wiring on vehicles because it's too brittle. After a while the vibrations and flexing will cause it to break. A super short length might be okay.
     


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  8. silverbullet132

    silverbullet132 New Member

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    Not going to take the risk, will just get some wiring tomorrow.
     


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  9. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    electricity travels along the outer edge of the copper wire. Stranded wire will carry more current than an equivalent gauge solid wire.
     


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  10. JasonWW

    JasonWW New Member

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    ??? - Irrelevant to this thread.
     


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  11. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    maybe. And I could be wrong. Seems to be some conflicting information out there on the interwebz. I know it's what I was taught in basic electricity and would seem to apply in this situation where the VFR has trouble getting enough current through the factory wiring harness. But when I went to go look for supporting information to my statement, it sounds like not everyone agrees with that statement.

    no disagreement with your flexibility statement.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2013


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  12. karazy

    karazy New Member

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    Yeah Tink, that's a little hokey, sort of like conventional electron flow.

    If you want an even more weather proof connection, apply a little RTV (silicone) under the ends of the heat shrink.
     


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  13. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    And if that don't work, you could consider doing the soldering job in your skivv-ieess...just be careful of that hot iron and errnat solder...:wacko:
     


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  14. karazy

    karazy New Member

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    ???

    The silicone, or other sealant is a requirement for connections that are exposed to weather in aircraft maintenance. It works very well at preventing corrosion. :p
     


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