Remove and Replace piston and rod thru oil pan on VF500F?

Is this possible? I thought I had a ticking valve on No.2 cylinder, then thought bad exhaust cam but the ticking is still there. Runs fine, cams looked a bit scored and the other 3 cylinders are quiet.

I'm now thinking wrist pin. Sure would be nice to not have to split the cases or remove the front head.

 

I guessing there's no way to get it past the crank. Pop the head is the way to go. It really is the way to remove and especially replace the piston. I'd hate to try to compress the rings from under the sleeve to get the piston in.:frown:

 

through oilpan is impossible. absolutely impossible. however if you discover a magical trick to do so, DO TELL. in the meantime, pop the head and you'll get it.

 

Thank you gentlemen for the info.

The noise doesn't really sound like any wrist pin I've experienced, more like a loose ticking. It does seem to be coming from the front left, No.2 cylinder/head area. Don't know what else it could be. I do plan to remove the clutch cover for an inspection of that area before replacing any internals.

Any other ideas what it might be? I bought it this way, the PO said it just started doing it. I rode it 73 miles yesterday evening ticking the whole time. It runs and revs fine, makes good power and is smooth.

 

have you checked valve clearance? if its top end, it could be a whole host of issues.

 

^ Ditto that. I can't remember the last time I saw a sloppy wrist pin on anything. I would suspect a rod bearing or a slightly scored piston/cylinder if nothing turns up in the valve train, but it sounds like you've been around engines a while, and you probably know the associated noises. If nothing comes out in the oil and the filter is clean inside, that would point more towards the top end. Have you checked the valve clearance in multiple locations? Perhaps a slightly sticky valve or bad valve spring...

 

Ok, starter clutch sounds more like the gizmo that could be making this noise. Sounds bigger than valves. Doesn't have the thunk of a rod. Thanks for the info.

First thing I did was adjust the valves, no change.
Replace the front exhaust cam and adjust valves again, no change.
Next step, pull clutch cover and see what I can see. How does one test the starter clutch?

 

Make sure carbs are clean and syncronized, if it's not running smooth it can make more mechanical noises.

 

The starter clutch looks fine and feels fine, all looks good when disassembled. Everything else under the clutch cover looks fine too. The basket could be a bit nicer as well as the hub but clutch action is nice and smooth. The oil pump chain has quite a bit of slack but looks like the one in the Honda service manual.
All looks fine under the alternator cover as well. I'm running out of gizmo's that move inside the engine.
I wish I had YouTubed it running with the ticking noise so y'all could have a better idea of how it sounds.

 

inspect cam tensioners, and the clutch basket. I've heard of clutch baskets wearing and making some strange noises as they age on this or that bike. I've owned a few of those too. outta synch carburetors WILL do it too.

 

The sync is good too. The bike actually runs very well except for the ticking noise.

Today Imma gonna remove the oil pan and see what's going on in there.

With the starter clutch off and the gear on the right side end of the crank that connects the crank to the clutch basket, primary gear I presume, should there be much side to side end play? Does the primary gear take up the end play when installed?