Regulator/over-voltage issue

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by flynride, Aug 5, 2013.

  1. flynride

    flynride New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Good day,

    Here's a real dinger of a problem I've been having. Look all over the forums for an answer but found nothing. I have a 1999 honda VFR 800 with some electrical issues. When I bought it my battery went dead so I replaced it with a Mosfet regulator rectifier MOSFET REGULATOR RECTIFIER back in Oct. 2012. 3 weeks ago my 3 yellow wires from the stator fried the connector to that RR. Those 3 yellow wires always were hot and it held a charge of 13v. at idle and would drop to 12.3 when rev'd to 5k. Well after the wires fried I sent it back to them for a replacement and got the new one in. I installed it today and now when rev'd to 5k it has an overvoltage of 18.0v and at idle 14.0v. I've tightened and cleaned the grounds that I could find. Are there any grounds I should be specifically looking at? That orange ground connector, could that be an issue? Thanks for any help.

    Oct. 2012- new regulator 13.0v steady idle no more at 5k
    July 2013- 3 yellow stator wires fried connector to regulator (made me hitch a ride home)
    Aug-2013- new RR now 18.0 v when rev'd to 5k and 14.0v at idle

    Tests:
    battery charging line checked out (read battery voltage)
    charging coil line all read .5 ohms
    ground line had continuity to ground
    the yellow wires don't run as hot now but have continuity between them I.e. (yellow to yellow) But not continuity to ground (yellow to ground)
     
  2. NormK

    NormK New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Messages:
    1,821
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Regulator is obviously not working should max out at about 14.5 volts
     
  3. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

    Country:
    Romania
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2006
    Messages:
    4,135
    Likes Received:
    321
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Southwest Ohio
    Map
  4. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2008
    Messages:
    3,699
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    Morris County, New Jersey
    Map
    ^^^^See Mello's post above.

    Curious if you are buying from a "reputable" company, or going something like the e-bay route? You don't have to mention names. Just interesting about having 2 bad R/R.
     
  5. flynride

    flynride New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Yeah it's weird, they say they test their RR before they go out. I just have been trying to avoid having to cut open the wire harness. The Orange ground box, should I just wire all those up together better see if that fixes the problem? I went through post #9, going to go to autozone today but the rest looked ok.
     
  6. flynride

    flynride New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    checked the battery, came back good. The output from the RR was 30volts if i took the reading right from the wiring before it enters the harness. I'm calling the company tomorrow morning about it.
     
  7. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

    Country:
    Romania
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2006
    Messages:
    4,135
    Likes Received:
    321
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Southwest Ohio
    Map
    Dude - the R/R test is with the multimeter leads touching the pos/neg posts on the battery. Did you do that?
     
  8. flynride

    flynride New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0

    Absolutely, first thing I checked. This last attempt was sort of just a who knows what I might find thing. I'm also an aircraft mechanic (just so yall know my background a bit). I'm just striking out with the normal causes and it seemed weird that the brand new RR would be bad, but that's what it's looking like.
     
  9. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

    Country:
    Romania
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2006
    Messages:
    4,135
    Likes Received:
    321
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Southwest Ohio
    Map
    Ok cool ----- Anyhoo on R/Rs you get what you pay for.
     
  10. flynride

    flynride New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    i agree, is $100 to cheap for a rr tho?
     
  11. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

    Country:
    Romania
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2006
    Messages:
    4,135
    Likes Received:
    321
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Southwest Ohio
    Map
  12. NormK

    NormK New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Messages:
    1,821
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    0
    30 volts A/C or D/C
     
  13. flynride

    flynride New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Thanks, I called the company they're having me send it back to them for testing, we will see what happens. He thinks there is a short somewhere in the system that is causing that sort of a draw. He said most common place was up in the steering column area, any recommendations on where to start a snipe hunt? If it doesn't work out I'll go to the one you recommend mellow dude. I appreciate the help thus far.
     
  14. flynride

    flynride New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    30 volts D/C it was before the battery but after the RR
     
  15. friedleyjr

    friedleyjr New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Messages:
    144
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Bossier City, La
    I just bought a new r/r from honda for 165.00 and then had to spend 30. to overnight it cause I didnt want to wait.
     
  16. NormK

    NormK New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Messages:
    1,821
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    0
    30 volts D/C I wonder what else has been fried
     
  17. TA-Rocks

    TA-Rocks New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2011
    Messages:
    101
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Gettysburg, Pa
    Map
    does that mean that your sixth gen had the same issues with the breakdown of the reg/rect?
     
  18. Skifreak

    Skifreak New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    Messages:
    235
    Likes Received:
    16
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Washington State
    Map
    I agree with the advice of buying from Roadstercycle.com. Got mine from them over a year ago and has been reliable ever since.
     
  19. flynride

    flynride New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Ok I got the new Mosfet R/R plugged in and it's only giving me a charge of 13.3 at idle and goes down to 12.9 at 5k rpm. Also those 3 yellow wires from the stator to the RR connector are getting hot like they did before they melted together. Is my stator bad? What tests should I follow with. Thanks for the help
     
  20. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

    Country:
    Romania
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2006
    Messages:
    4,135
    Likes Received:
    321
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Southwest Ohio
    Map
    Start over -
    --- Do you know your battery is rock solid? Charge it over night and get it load tested. - Your'e wasting your time unless your battery is good.
    - What brand R/R did you buy?
    - Do the Drill - give us the real numbers. It takes a whole ten minutes.

    . “The Drill.”
    Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Your gonna have to fix that!
    Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too.
    Steps:
    - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.
    - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.
    These are R/R quick checks---
    --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm.
    - Check stator
    - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off)
    - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart)
    - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings, connector still apart.
    - Repeat hot.
    This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart.
    http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
     
Related Topics

Share This Page