Rear brake lines question 1998

I ordered a braided set from Frentubo (italian). Only reason that they had it already in stock to ship out. The pieces match up ok, I'll need to reuse the cross over pipes (feel like this will be a pain in the ass). One section uses 2 lines and a double bolt like the Galfer set. However the rear lines arrived like this with female connectors on the end (M10x1 thread). Looking at the honda diagram it doesn't show if those banjos can be unscrewed from the old lines. Am I going to have trouble and need to complain/find alternative parts?
Pictures:
https://i.imgur.com/EzQsmmv.png

https://i.imgur.com/l55uqEd.png

I also seem to have an extra double bolt (aside from one for the rear and they included a rear bleed valve bolt to replace the honda ones)

 

The OEM rear line banjos do not unscrew. The lines in the photo look like they would be for the front lines that connect to the hard lines that are on either side of the frame near the head stock.

 

From the little I've shopped for braided lines, there are banjo adapters that screw into those female ends...........

 

Those lines you mention have square type female connectors. Do the hard lines on the vfr have a rotating screw on the end? Otherwise I'm going to havehave trouble as the square blocks don't rotate like the lines I posted above...

 

Yes there are the same screw ends but with banjos on that are for the clutch and brake MC lines Unless I can reuse those banjo for this...

 

What I was referring to was something like this... come in a few angles, etc. You'll have to figure out what you need.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Russell-R4...yVeRSHH:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!14057!US!-1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Russell-R4...eBeRSFf:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!14057!US!-1

 

Yes these should have been included. I'm in contact with them now. Can someone confirm if the hard lines male connectors rotate, I haven't had a chance to look yet. Just trying to anticipate any problems before I rip out the old lines.

 

Yes, they rotate.

 

Well I'm still working on this, missing parts arrived. About to fit rear lines, but the bleed nipple/banjo bolt combo(part 23) seems to be obscured by the petrol tank, do I need to remove the petrol tank to remove or bleed it? I must have bled it before without removing.. seems to not be much clearance there though.

Also the braided hose on the front is not identical to the honda part (it has a double connector instead of a hose with a connector in the middle) and looks very close to the wheel, I might try bending the hose the other way and I found a double bolt that has a smaller head which I'll swap in. I know the wheel shouldn't move close during riding, but still.

 

That's a little close to the rim. For starters I would definitely go with the banjo bolt with the shorter head height. As far as the hoses, I would try to put the banjo fitting for the short front hose on the inside, with the main hose on the outside and see if you couldn't rotate them around to get the hoses further away from the rim. Never cared for that Galfer kit, that fitting should have been a double (inlet/outlet) banjo fitting with a single hose and a single line banjo bolt.

 

Upon closer inspection of the honda diagrams I think I put it in the wrong place, I think the double should be connected in the other position (closer to the fork). I replaced them one by one but this thing got me stumped. The rear connectors I'm sure are wrong, I might order different angled ones (they sent some 15 degree angle when it should be like a 90 degree on the rear master cylinder). This set was from "Frentubo" italian company, only ordered because it was already built and ready to ship, not sure if it's worth saving £60 though!!

 

I think you just need to swap ends of that short hose if you can, get the angle fitting pointing away from the wheel. Interested in how this plays out... I have a Galfer kit coming.

 

You've already dropped the cash, you'll figure it out and make it good.

 

HEL for me. Sent all my lines to the UK in 2007 and they made them up exactly like stock for my '06 6G. They gave them to me at half price so they had the templates to make them. Then another person from here sent his 5G lines to them and they did the same for him.

 

Well I installed the new lines... the double banjo was in the wrong place so I swapped that. They sent banjos but they aren't as shiney, I hope they don't corrode, I covered them in protecting spray stuff. I put some bits of rubber coating off the old hose on to the braided ones as they did touch some metal in places, and I don't know if they will get damaged.

Only problem now is that the rear centre piston will not disengage. I might leave it for a 3rd day and try another bleed to see if there is air in the way... I think I have trouble with the slave master cylinder (the green mesh piece I think I might need to remove).

I placed the SMC at 15 degree like in the picture attached, should I actuate the SMC as part of bleeding as I only used the rear brake.. I'm scratching my head as to the purpose of the mesh valve, does fluid pass through it, or is it a piston, I can't figure why that would cause such a problem even if it is dirty, all the return holes in the master's were clear and I changed fluid a year ago.

I have followed the bleed process, front right lower, front left lower, under seat valve, then middle rear, then outer rear. The foot pedal is rock solid, and the SMC piston is solid, I blocked the two rear outer pistons, and when using the foot brake only, the centre piston is actuated, is this correct? It does not return though unless I use A LOT of force but undoing the middle bleed on rear releases it smooth. All other pistons glide in and out smoothly.

Also to note, the SMC makes a squish sound when I acuate the foot brake. I checked all pistons and banjos and cannot see leakage, and the foot brake does not travel further so I am sure it is not a leak in the system.

HELP?