RC24: trans swap / fuel pump / sloppy brakes +++

Hi all - just got stolen VFR back - man am I chuffed! anyways - i was wondering where problem areas could cause sloppy front brakes - I know braded lines are the 1st thought, but what about the brake piston rubber becoming harder 2 push? and the caliper pistons - could those rubbers affect the brakes too? Im thinking of an overhaul of the brake and thought id throw that up here.

Also - do i need a fuel pump relay? Previous one I had i just wired up to ignition till it packed up. I see ppl selling relays as well - are they necessary?

My 3rd and 4th gear are terrible, they hook, get jammed up etc etc, esp 3rd - I have a spare motor laying around with some crank damage - and since mine is running so well otherwise not keen to swap - so im thinking of swapping the other ones transmission over - basically doing a best parts build etc. Can this be done with the heads on or do i also need to take those off? Im obviously hoping not.

Anyone made their own bike engine stand - im thinking of making one for myself.

I am also thinking of tapping in sync tubes for the carbs so i can sync on bike, and replacing the screws with allen/torx ones..

 

Often, if the bike went over on its side, air can get into the brake mc, so a bleed is in order. No need for pump relay if you bypass the relay at its plug with an insulated wire. (Slight increase in risk of fire if the bike goes sideways.) Shifting?? Be sure the clutch hydraulics are free of air pockets.

 

hi - I did do a complete bleed on the bike when i initially rebuilt her. My vf750 felt better actually (its sold tho). Im doing a tear down of the motor as im convinced the trans gears are shot.. 1st and 2nd are perfect, 3rd is terrible, 4th inbetween, and 5th a bit worse than 4th.. but ok for highway cruising..

I will remove the clutch basket obviously and mic the discs and compare to my other engine but im rather sure there are either sprocket and or selector wear issues..

Any ideas on swapping the gears from the bottom without removing heads?

and any tips on doing a bench setup with carbs?? im gonna set this baby up METICULOUS so she will run like a champ. last time i stripped/cleaned carbs power dropped quite a bit (+-5 -10%), is there a way to get best power without a wideband? Ill be making a diy sync tool as seen all over the net and tapping in fittings for the hoses to do an on bike sync - but ito air/fuel can u set it on idle speed by ear and shoot for max revs? (like a weber on a car)

tx for the info

 

Man, i love them Webers ! What i cut my teeth on back in the 60s. Ever read the Weber tuning and maintenance book by John Passini, vital for understanding many tuning concepts ??

The factory idle drop method esentially fine-tunes each mix screw for best running at idle and just above.

 

cant say i have - but ive just rebuilt and tuned my 36dgv on my ford Kent - running like a champ they are great carbs. Do i perform this before syncing them, and do i start from the base carb (carb #2 for my 86 rc24?)