Race Tech: First Impressions

I ride a 2007 VFR 800A, and last winter the front and rear suspension were upgraded with Race Tech products. My dealer's master technician did all of the work in terms of removing and putting things back together. The following taken from the invoice from Race Tech:

Front suspension: Rebuild Forks-Street; Fork Rebound Gold Valve HFR (High Frequency Response) kit.

Rear suspension: Rebuild Shock- M/C Street, SK Gold Valve, nitrogen valve assembly.

Now, before I report my initial impressions of these Race Tech modifications, please note that I'm merely a street rider, and I have no track experience, but I regularly ride many of Ohio's most challenging twisty roads at my own pace. It's also worth mentioning that my current tires are Michelin Pilot Road 2CT's, which I've been running at 36 psi front, 42 psi rear.

Over the past 4 weeks, I've rode the Motorcycle ~ 1200 miles, with ~30% of those miles on highways, and ~70% on twisty rural roads. (I've been able to ride in such chilly weather with the aid of cold weather riding gear, heated grips and heated inner fleece, etc.). Yesterday I rode 410 miles in southern and southeastern ohio, which was the real shakedown ride so far. At any rate, I offer the following thoughts/impressions:

1) The VFR's stock suspension is often criticized and cited for being the most glaring weakness in an otherwise world class sport-touring motorcycle. Many VFR riders feel that Honda really dropped the ball with its poor design of the stock suspension. Check the archives here and elsewhere, and you will find that most riders who are dissatisfied with the stock suspension will recommend (based on experience) that the pre-load settings for the front and rear suspension should often be dialed-in quite heavily and stiffly, since Honda supposedly designed the bike with smaller and lighter folks in mind, particularly Japanese riders, rather than taking into account more hefty and larger American and European riders.

Indeed, I'm 5'9", 190 lbs., and with the stock front suspension I found that I needed to crank it down most of the way, and a bit less so with the rear suspension. Moreover, the stock suspension may become even more problematic when riding 2-up, etc. These weaknesses are often what leads many VFR owners to shell out money for aftermarket suspension rebuilds such as those offered by Race Tech.

2) Basic differences I've found after a full Race Tech rebuild of the front and rear suspension include the following: (a) The Race Tech suspension is much more sensitive to pre-load adjustments! Don't crank the pre-load down with the Race Tech suspension like you may be accustomed to doing with the stock suspension, or you may be in for a very rough ride and a rude awakening. Back off, and initially err on the side of softer rather than stiffer settings until you get a better feel of things. (b) Your previous tire pressure preferences may well change with the introduction of Race Tech rebuilds. For example, I've found that while running my rear tire at 42 psi felt right with the stock suspension, that pressure feels way too hard with Race Tech, and I've backed off to 36-38 psi in the rear tire. (c) By comparison, the stock suspension was not very telegraphic, and it was rather sluggish, while the Race Tech suspension feels like sex without a condom. (d) As much as I love the Michelin Pilot Road 2CT's, I'm finding that with the Race Tech rear suspension, the rear tire should indeed be 170 rather than 180, so the rear tire is best a Pilot Power rather than a Pilot Road or similar. (e) So far, even with these minor tire quibbles, the Race Tech suspension has made a world of difference-- the bike handles and rides so much better, and it rails through corners, but like I've said, that fat rear Michelin tire needs to go, replaced with a Pilot Power 2CT.

 

I have done the Racetech front but have yet to change the rear,I am 5'10'' 195lbs.

I have conti road attacks and so far my results have been vast improvement on a par with what you describe. I am using preload at the "normal " stock setting so far.

I also lowered the front 12 mm when I put it back together.

So far I have not done any true high speed runs, just twisty rural roads. I am also not a track rider and it sounds like we have similar rididng experience. I have lots of miles ridden, but not a racer. I dont ride 2-up.

I have yet to play with the tire pressures but your suggestions in this area are making me wonder if I should.

So far this is the best way of doing a poor man's suspension fix. Now I need to ride it a bit more and decide what I may want to do with the rear.

I have definitely noticed better turn in, better high energy bump reaction, and much better front dive when hitting the brakes hard. Also a lesser tendency to run wide when on the throttle out of a turn.

All that sounds like I know what I'm talking about, but I am not a racer, just a guy that knew something wasnt quite right with his bike in stock form.

Last riding season was my first back after having been away from bikes for a long while, but even then I could tell my bike needed some help, especially in the front. As I get more practice in and become better my wallet may have to open again.

Between buying the bike, getting all new gear ( which I love) tires, and now front end the wallet is wishing I would quit kicking its ass so hard. I'm thinking it better get used to it.

 

Good for you Rover!!! VFR's feel like a completely different animal in the twistys with upgraded suspension, taking down the psi on the tires was a good move because it will give you just a bit more contact with the road when in attack mode, I run mine at 34 rear & 32 front when I know I'm in for a day of canyon carving.

Don't be in to much of a hurry to change tire sizes, Your problems with the tires might be due to improper settings, did your suspension guy set the sag for you yet?

 

I've been tossing up the idea of just changing front and rear springs. Being 220lbs and lacking the funds to go all out I'm curious how much of a difference it will make.... If valving will make a huge diff then I guess I could look into it.

 

Curious... did you change the spring on the rear shock for a stronger rate since you do some two up riding? What did they suggest for those situations? Just pump up the preload and you'll be good since you've got the new valving?

 

My understanding is that changing spring rates without the valving to go along is a mistake. I know of one guy that tried this on his Yam R1 track bike and wound up with pogo stick that he described to me as causing him to run off track and just barely save from crashing. He's a big boy like you, if fact even larger, in the 250lb range.

The Racetech parts ran about 500 bucks, and then you'll need a competent person to put them together for you, unless you do it yourself, that will add a bit to it, or you can take them just the forks, or send the forks to Racetech and have them do it.

I'm thinking of doing the rear, but later this year sometime, and I will probably go with a whole new shock like Penske or some such.

Look into it carefully Jason, and I dont know for sure how well it will work for you, but for my old 5th gen, its dramatically better.

 

Love the Race Tech upgrades!

I just got my bike dialed in last Sunday. So far I am VERY happy.

If the weather is nice this weekend, I'll be doing some parking lot practice. I'll see what I think then.

BZ