Questions Re: 86 VFR750

Hello all. I have a quick question and was hoping some of you may be able to help. I did a quick search but could not find the info I wanted.

I am looking to purchase an 86 VFR750, going to look at one this weekend. I was just curious as to any typical problems or issues that may exist with this particular model that I should watch out for. I have been out of motorcycling for several years (had an 85 VFR500, 88 Hurricane 600)and am a liitle out of the loop as far as potential issues. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Things to look for ...

Hello:

The most notorious issue with the second generation (and, well, later generations too) is the failing regulator/rectifier. To over-simplify, they don't get enough cooling air to keep them cool where they are installed (under the seat). On a short check-up you probably won't be able to tell for certain if the R/R is okay. Unless, of course, the bike won't start. Although annoying as Hell, this is something that can get "handled."

Other than that, I'd say there are no model-specific problems, per se. That is to say, the things you'd check on an '86 VFR are no different than the things you'd check on any other road bike - fork seals - chain - brakes - clutch, etc., etc.

If you don't know - in the U.S. - the '86 750 is a bit more rare than the 700cc "tariff beater." So, it is a bit more of a collectable bike.

Gray Market

 

hi, I own a VFR 750 ('87). Some trouble with R/R, so check its has a type with heating dissipators. For the other parts, do the cheks you should do with any other bike. All depends on the previous maintenance. A little noise coming from the "heads" (in '86 and '87 models) is quite normal : it arises from the gear driven camshaft. If it is very strong, be careful ! Problems with valves.....
Last : try to drive this bike some minutes to verify the good functioning of the cooling system (radiator, fan switch,..). Good luck and welcome to VFR world.
Lamps !!!

 

Thanks for the information. Would there be any noticable damage, discoloration or perhaps burn marks that might signify trouble with the rectifier? Is it located directly under the seat?

 

I just bought an 86 750 and love it. Its a Honda, if it looks well taken care of you should be good. Welcome to the forum, let us know when you get it(pics)

 

most of the r/r are located under the rear fairing on the side of the sub frame.

 

yes, under the seat on the left side, inside the sub frame,

 

Yes, under the seat ...

Hello, Again:

Yes, the R/R is under the seat, mounted on the sub-frame. You can pull off the side cover to take a look at the back side of it, but that isn't gonna tell you very much. Nor will looking directly at the R/R itself.

However, taking a look at the connectors - especially the connector from the stator (3 yellow wires) might give you a clue. But, keep in mind, we're not talking major surgery here. Depending upon where you like to shop, you can get a replacement R/R for around a hundred bucks, give or take. Also, even if it were bad, there is all kinds of support on discussion groups like this one (and others) to tap into.

If it were me, I'd worry more about things like fork seals, or, as has been said a couple of times now, all the "general" stuff that you'd examine on ANY bike you were thinking about purchasing.

Good luck.

Gray Market

 

What regular or ususal things?

1. Never get emotional about buying this or any particular bike.

2. Take a compression tester and demand to use it. You want to see no less than 140 to 150 psi on each cylinder on a cold bike. You hope you see more on a warmed up motor. If the owner complains that you will make a mess of his beautiful piece of art, ask him to take it apart. If he balks you don't want that bike. Most used bikes are far from 100%. The 100% ones are for museums. If you drive them you break them. If you perserve them there need be no pistons inside because you'll not have bought them to drive.

3.If the bike does not run still demand to compression test it. You find out if the starter works, if the crankshaft turns over nicely, and how the starting cuircuit works (with or without key/switch etc). If it passes the pressure test you still have leverage. If the bike won't start/run then knock the price down to 25% of asking price. Remember that he's telling you it's a great bike and you are gonn'a love it, but he has already cut his ties to it and he is trying his best to palm it off on you. Don't give him more than half his asking price, there will be something else wrong that even he has forgotten about, not to exclude what he knows and won't reveal. If you can't get the bike hot or fully warmed up before buying you are taking a chance. Don't take a bike that doesn't run unless you do the compression test, or the guy is giving it to you to clean his garage out.

If it does run that does not mean its worth what is being asked for it. Do the compression test and if it has a low cylinder you have reason to demand a lower price, if owning a broken used motorcycle its really what you want.

I don't know how to do a compression test?
Ask yourself if you want to buy a used motorcycle?

On a VFR its a bit cumbersome to get the front 2 plugs out. Drop the radiator down and bring your shortest socket extensions, maybe an articulated ratchet or a universal. The plugs require an 18mm 6 point deep socket. Try to find one specialized for plug removal/instalation, they have a rubber insert that holds onto the plugs insulator for removal and helps to reduce insulator breakage.

The compression tester requires a special threaded adaptor common to medium capacity motorcycle plugs, (12mm I think, ask your dealer). Use a compression tester that has the threaded fitting on the end of a flex hose. Trying to get a hand held tester in will be hell to pay. Take all four plugs out before starting the test. Ground the ignition secondary HT leads or remove primary leads from the coils to protect the ignition system from high voltage arcing.

Just pulling the plugs out is like opening the book on how the bike is. Black and sooty plugs: running rich; black and oily plugs: bad valve seals or rings; orange/green or grey deposit buildup on a poorly gapped plug: no maintenance; white or blasted looking electrode: runs lean and/or sees abuse. Grey to light brown with little deposition on electrode and near perfect electrode gap and you have a good running, well maintained, machine.

When making the test each cylinder is tested in turn and the result noted down. Screw the tester end in all the way with a rubber o ring on the end of the thread as an added seal. Crack the throttle open while the cylinders are spinning. Don't burn out the starter trying to increase the reading. It should take no more than 4 to 5 revolutions of the piston for maximum pressure to be reached, 6 revolutions if you are giving the cylinder the benefit of the doubt.

If there is more than a 10% variation between pressure in each cylinder or between high and low cylinders its a sign of trouble.

If there is a problem back away calmly, tell the owner what you have found and say you'll call back later. The seller probably knows less than you do. You have actually educated him about why he is getting rid of the bike in the first place. He usually will have already replaced the bike. He is out of love, but now he has a good reason to be so. He wants to sell his ex love because the new lady of the house is demanding money. Wait him out to get the price you think is fair to you. If some smart ass gives the owner what he wants that's too bad for him. He paid too much and he'll be turning around and selling it in worse condition for less in a month or two, maybe you'll get it then. If he buys at too high a price chalk it up to experience, an experience you avoided. Don't be afraid to walk, there is another one just like that other one waiting for you in the wings.

If no one is that stupid the original owner is not gonna get his price and if the new old lady is screaming for money then he'll come looking for you. Don't forget to tell him your name and number as you walk away. And don't be in a hurry to come up in your price, leave it at 25 or 30% of what he was hoping for. If he can't sell it he'll be back with a lower price asking you if you want it. Don't make it any easier for him, you're the one who has to get his hands dirty fixing his problem.