Questions about cleaning carbs on a 95

So like an idiot I let my gas go bad this winter. I tried draining the gas and puting new gas in, but it still does not light up. I am geting ready to pull and clean the plugs along with replace oil pan, battery, and oil filter. The pan needs to be replaced after I tightened the oil drain plug too much. Well seeing as I am already gona be doing some work I was thinking maybe I should clean the crabs while I am at it.

Problem is I have never attempted to clean carbs in my life, and have almost no idea on how to go about doing it. I do have a copy of the repair manual on the way. Any advice for me? And what about the carb cleaner fuel additive?

 

Hey Mac. I Just got mine out last weekend, Got an 86 though. I have never done this before either. but trust me if you pay attention to what your doing its not that difficult. Of course, with the help of others here. Im waiting on my service manual in the mail too. think I still have the hard part in front of me yet, putting them back in. I have learned alot recently about carbs. If you want to check out my thread " 86 carb removal, clean, install suggestions in the mechanics garage it may be helpful.

 

BTW you need to rmove seat, gas tank, watch out for your gas sensor harness, remove it. Take off air cleaner but I left the air cleaner base on my carbs, not the screen mesh, the aluminum cast base. disconn. throttle cables at carbs, possibly at throttle to remove at carbs, choke cable,air cleaner hose to that square looking thingy on the top of the heads, and loosen the carb boots at the carbs, not the intake tubes on the block. I had to pull up moderately and kind of wiggled them a little and poof, they were out.

 

I just did my first cleaning as well. The hardest part was wrestling the carbs out of 23 year old rotted carb boots (no flex). Now I'm stuck waiting for new boots to arrive in the mail (you might think about ordering replacement carb boots before you begin or at least inspect the ones on your bike to see if they're past expiration date).

I followed the service manual's disassembly instructions for the carb themselves, bowl, jets, diaphragm, etc. made sure to get all the rubber parts off, blasted carb cleaner through the jets. As of right now I have the whole assy. soaking in a mix of gas/sea foam; I couldn't find a big enough carb cleaner bath solution that would fit everything without starting to take linkages apart, etc. etc. They weren't that dirty at all to begin with. I really think the cracked/split boots were my problem to begin with.

 

"No offense," but if you overtightened oil drain bolt to the point of stripping out threads, maybe you are not yet ready to work on carbs, which can EASILY be ruined...............
take them out and take them to official Honda dealer for repair.

BUT FIRST:
If you try running a fuel system cleaner like Sea Foam, the carbs may not need further attention.

 

I think the hardest part is resyncing the carbs

 

there is no need to disturb synch during a simple cleanup involving jets, and any 6 year old girl could easily get her hands into the tight synch adjustment area.......but others can't.

 

Dude WTH you using to tightening the drain plug? Sorry to hear this, what a Bummer, as far as the carbs go, kinda have a Hmm going on here, fuel going bad in the winter? thats only what 3 maybe 4 months, you shouldn't have had any trouble, very interesting. okay, as noted by others try some of that Sea foam, way worth it if you don't have to mess with thy carbs. if that doesn't work all thou I suspect it may take more than a couple tries, I to recommend having a shop do the work, to many little things that could go wrong for ya, LOL from one that tighten the drain plug to tight? Don't take that the wrong way, just really those carbs are a pain. thou I've heard FI is worse. :wink:

 

I just did mine this past December. No real surprises.

My carb boots were still pliable, and the carbs popped out with a 12" prybar with little effort. Pretty straight forward to reinstall, also.

I removed the aluminum plate just to make things a little less cumbersome to work on, although the metal tabs that cover the screws are a PITA.

Just remember, if you decide to tackle this yourself, that you should only work on one carb at a time. You'll need access to a compressor for compressed air (35 psi), and an assortment of small cleaning brushes and carb cleaner. Soaking the carbs is OK, but not always necessary.

Be sure to take your time, be gentle with those diaphragms, and make sure that everything goes back where it came from.