question about using angle grinder to cut chain rivets

Replacing a riveted chain for the first time on the 2002. To grind off the head of the rivets, I'm using a $10 Harbor Freight 4.5in angle grinder and a 24 grit aluminum oxide grinding wheel. Do I use the edge of the grinding wheel or its surface to grind the head of the rivets?

 

the face at an angle, they'll be gone right quick...

 

^ +1, work at an angle. You'll have better visibility. Periodically pull the grinder away & check progress.

 

What they said.....:thumb:
Grind flush then knock out the pin :wink:

 

Angle girder can grind off the top of that rivet in 30 seconds too. Or less.

 

I agree with mello dude, you're taking it off cause it's no good anymore right? Cut the side plates and be done.

 

Either way, whatever is faster for you and the tools you have. New one going anyways.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. I need to use the old chain to guide the new chain, so I'll grind the rivets at an angle as you've recommended, though cutting the chain would be faster.

 

The angle grinder easily shaved down the OEM solid rivet within about 30 seconds with plenty of fireworks--it was pretty impressive. And the Harbor Freight chain breaker tool pushed the rivet out easily.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

What he said!! Tear it up.

 

Be sure to clean up all the dust from the chain and disc. That stuff is really abrasive.

 

I always use the old chain to pull the new one into it's new home. I am not "pulling your chain either" ound: Make sure when you stake the new master link that you don't totally sqaush the new rivets. My chain tool has a flat piece of metal tool that you use to measure if the rivets are dimpled in enough. The bike I bought had a new chain and sprockets, if you look closely at the master link, you could see the previous person massacred it! The edges of the rivets have a cut of sorts, I think I may replace the master and stake it myself in the near future. Cheers

 

What chain tool do you have? Any advice on making sure the endplate is pushed on the right amount? It's difficult to accurately measure the distance from rivet tip to endplate with the depth gauge of a micrometer.

 

its an RK chain tool, comes in a pretty blue box. Maybe its an EK tool. My memory is kind of shot :hippie: I bought it from an online motorcycle dealer in Troy NY. Think they are called Competition Cycle? So, the flat metal tool is kind of a gauge to measure the sqaushed rivet.

It is possible to over-due the rivet when your staking it, its a feel thing and visual. It should move freely but still be staked, I have used master link clips and just used a piece of safety wire aroud the outer link with no repruccsions.

Remember a quality tool will last your life time Kind of like buying a pair of 200 dollar shoes, you can always re-sole and they are good as new, 20 dollar shoes on the other hand. Well you get the picture. I have to eat my quiche now :wacko: :thumbsup:

 

The factory manual gives all the necessary measurements:

Masterlink protrusion: 1.2-1.4 mm (0.05-0.06)
Diameter of Staked area: 5.55-5.85mm (0.219-0.230)

 

^ when you look at your drivers licence, does it say "I am dah Man?" ound: Pretty neat, I am not surprised that the manual has those measurements, but would not have looked. You learn something new every day I say...:thumbsup:

 

I just happened to come across it when I changed out a chain several years ago. I was as surprised as you to see those kind of dimensions in there.

 

I use a cutoff wheel and just cut a link in half. As for "guiding in the new one" I feel that's pretty lazy. You should take the opportunity to get at the front sprocket inspect and clean out all the crud around the counter shaft anyway. As for a rivet tool, I've used the $10 harbor freight chain breaker for this purpose. Takes 2 seconds to change it up for riveting purposes, 3 chains so far and no problems.

 

Just changed my sprockets and chain. Used grinder to remove heads of rivets and Cycle Gear chain breaker tool to push out pins. Unfortunately tool does NOT push pin out far enough on a 530 chain, just picked up grinder and finished job. Then I used AFRAM's tool for compressing link, then flared pins. Worked great, worth the $29.