Question about Oxford Grips wiring...

Wish I could lend some "Glo" to your situation, but not sure on this one. A friend of mine has his wired directly to the battery with a on/off switch.
Good Luck.

 

Hey Derstuka, you know you should have some pictures to add that special...."GLO"
What did you go with as far as wiring into to get the 13v?

 

Posi-Tap

You could sell them, and get you something else for your bike!
By the way, those Posi-Tap connectors work really well. I installed Hyper-Lites about a week ago, and they came with Posi-Taps for the install. The only extra thing I did was put a small amount of dielectric grease in each cap to help with keeping out moisture, etc.
Check out the Hyper Lites. They blend into the bike until you press the break. Those jokers are bright! I tried taking a picture of them flashing red, but it just washed out.

 

By the way Glo, don't let those shiny tail pipes blind you. It's like looking at the sun........take a brief peep and look away!

 

Yes, Posi-Taps were used to wire directly into the three Taillight Wires (Ground, Ignition-On, & Brake Light on). Like you stated earlier, the part that took the longest was routing the wires so have a clean, OEM look.

I know this will cause a "disturbance in the VFR Force" but I like the stock exhaust. That is one of the many things that attracted me to the bike.

 

Any electrical connection should be about ~13.4v when the bike is running. The reason they want you to go directly to the battery is that they pull enough current that a supply like a tail light will be too light of guage wire. If you really dont want to go to the battery directly, hook a relay up to the tail light as a signal source.

Wesley J

 

While the 13+v is important, the wattage is where splicing into another circuit will cause problems. The existing key switched circuits are not designed to handle the extra load of the heated grips. That's why the book says to go straight to the batt.
Like stated above, if you really need to have the grips work off the key switch, a relay wired to the batt and to the tail light ( or whatever ciucuit you deside) for the signal, is a must.

 

Also note that having 13 volts is only to ensure that you have maximum heat at the highest setting. I sometimes ride in 25 degree F weather and have not yet required maximum heat on my naked SV-650.

Regardless, unless there's something strange with the wiring of the VFR's, all circuits should have the same voltage minus any loss due to the wire. This drop should be negligable for a properly desgned circuit.

I purchased a wiring kit from a guy (tightwad) on vfr discussion's forum which fixes a lot of wiring issues that the vfr's have as well as adds a relay driven fuse panel for my many accessories. I'ts plug and pray. You can get it here: http://www.wiremybike.com/

Wesley J

 

A relay will have 4 wires coming out of it.
1) + to the batt
2) - to the batt
3) + to switched hot wire (tail light, head light etc.)
4) + out to the grips
you will keep the gnd wire from the grips to the batt the way it is.
When you turn the switch on, it will tell the relay to supply power to the grips from the batt and not from the tail light wire. This way you are getting power from the batt, without worry of running it down if you forget and leave them on. At the same time this will not overlaod your tail light circuit. I'd get a relay used for fog lights on a car, which are available at any good auto parts store. Hope this helps, Eddie:biggrin:

 

Wesley J, I know you have been doing a little looking around concerning these things, LOL! So I decided to snoop around a little myself and see what this fusebox Relay Kit stuff was really all about. I'm glad I did!

I am now thinking about using the Sea Blue 5025 fusebox, which can be seen here :http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/products/5025 and the HD 30A Relay Kit with both the Diode and Weatherpack Fuse as seen here: http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/AP-1/ap-1.html#ap1hdrk . I am planning on connecting the switched lead to the key on, hot wire, to the taillight. Is this kinda' the direction you were thinking of going?

I had noticed that you were looking for the Centech AP-2 is that because you want to have both switched and unswitched power sources? I figured either way was a pretty good setup for around $100.00. I would like to hardwire my radar detector to free up my Powerlet to put power into my tank bag, plus I think it would make it easier to connect the footpeg Powerlet outlet I plan to install, any thoughts?

Ron