Problem with tires

On my VFR 800, 2000 I have Dunlop qualifer.
After 1600 km front tire start have strong vibrations. when you move hands of handlebar, whole front part of bike start shakeing.
In Dunlop service they take that tire and give me a new, but the same thing start after 2200km. Balansing tire isn't help.

Is enyone have this problem or it is only in Croatia?

And with wich tires you are the most satisfied??

 

Not sure if this helps any as I have a 4th gen. Mine did the same thing not that your suppose to ride hands free, still coming down thru 50 to 25mph like off an off ramp where you sit up taking your hands off once it slowed down and dropping through the 50-40mph range it shook its head sometimes to the point your going WT%*^& funny thy little pinkie stopped it, so thought at first it was a damping problem, later on through a lot of trial and era, talking with Honda reps, I find it's how the tire wears that starts this along with tire pressure some more or less makes it worse or better, thing is since I've switch to Pirelli Corsa's the problem is gone. seems the chassis is sensitive to tire input is all I know and now that I know whats what, it's not a problem still with the other tires it handled so-so, just this little quirk had me bugged.

 

Thank you for help, but tire pressure is ok. I always check for it.

Before Dunlop I have a Bridgestone and it was ok. And Dunlop also was ok till that kilometers.

I also try set suspension, but everything stay same.

 

i had the same problem with the bridgestones i switched to metzlers and problem went away. ive gone 10,000 mi. on metzlers now and have had no problems. when the front tire cups is when that usually happens.

 

I think that is not in this case because it happens on first tire and on second which I got on reclamations.
Maybe is some mistake in productions.....

 

You got me worried.Qualifire would be my next tire on my bike???
Currently I have Bridgestone BT 20 and it`s a total crap,after 4kkm wear is hardly noticeable and very bad grip,never again!!!Sliding in almost every corner
I had Dunlop D220R and D207F and it was much better combination.The best tire I had was Pirelli Dragon or Corsa-best grip but more €€€
I had vibrations only at the end of life time of tire.

 

Try adjusting your suspension. With suspension that is set up too soft in the front and stiff in the rear, this can cause the front end to shake or give it that "unstable feeling". This set also affect the front tire wear.

 

You might also try raising your fork tubes in the triple-clamps about 1/2".

This has the effect of lowering the front end, or raising the rear end.
Either way puts a bit more weight on the front tire.

Although the steering geometry will be slightly sharpened, the increased forward weight balance will make it more stable, but slightly heavier feeling.
Most people find this more reassuring.

In addition, the increased loading on the front tire "pushes" the front contact patch into the pavement.
The added weighting causes more friction with the road surface, which reduces unintended and undesired wiggling or 'headshake'.

On my (professionally tuned) '01 R1, I raised the fork tubes exactly 12mm and it cornered as if on rails.
Pretty much imperturbable.
I rode that thing very hard, with frequent unintended power-wheelies from maximum, nearly WFO acceleration.
I've never owned a steering-damper, and never needed one.
(I don't mind a "lively" front end when really hammering, but not scary. A little wiggle occasionally is fine)

My VFR came with Gen-Mar risers, which on this bike raised the fork tubes about 18mm (eyeball estimate).
It has benefited greatly as far as sporty handling, with a very solid feeling front end.

I tend to 'ride the front end'.
I'm sensitive to what the front end is doing, and use the rear end mostly for acceleration and squaring off corners with aggressive but judicious throttle on corner exits.
For me the magic happens up front.

The trade-off to raising the fork tubes (effectively lowering the front end) is very slightly reduced ground clearance, but it would only matter on a true racebike, where the bike is kept at extreme, hardware -dragging lean angles, where every millimeter counts to maintain maximum cornering speed.
You'll never notice it the street; If you do, you're riding too fast for the street anyway.

Try it. About 12-16mm - I'd be curious what you think.
Please post up again if you do.

*ps - I do agree that the problem will likely be reduced with Metzelers or Pirellis.
They both use a very similar carcass, with a rounded profile on the front.
Dunlops mostly have a pointer profile, which will tend to exacerbate the feeling.

 

Thanks...

But I'm adjust front forks and whole suspension on hard. I think that is thing just in tire, because suspension was like now when I run with D 220 and problem is only with qualifer.

 

Its your tires, put a straight edge across tread and youll see slight cupping. My 2002 does it around same mileage, replaced with Bridgestone’s and 3 different Dunlop’s. One new Dunlop had the shakes slightly brand new. Manual, electronic balancing did not help, even bought my own balance rig. I hit a raccoon around 50mph when first got bike and always suspected that knocked something out of line, but dealer says they can't detect any problem. Might try the Metzler.

 

OK, in addition to new tires (Metz's or Pirellis IMHO), Raise the fork tubes...
It's easy and it's FREE.

My '94 does not headshake, and corners very stable.
The front Metzeler Z6 Roadtec is worn to a pointy profile, which should exacerbate any headshake.
The front end feels rock-solid and trustworthy in any situation.

Ever notice how many new super-sport bikes now come with adjustable rear ride-height?
Premium aftermarket shocks?
Aftermarket kits for some bikes to adjust rear ride height?
Rear shock shims?

Same principle.

Motorcycle manufacturers like to keep the steering light to sell bikes.
People like light handling.
If it feels good on the showroom floor, bikes go out the door...
The trade-off can be ill-handling and other negative side-effects such as headshake.
The OEMs usually set the static attitude at a point slightly erring on the side of lightness, and hope you won't notice the problems that can result.

In my experience, Honda seems to be the worst offender of all in their quest for light handling.
I've ridden many, many Hondas, and all seem to exhibit slightly too light handling, and would likely benefit from more forward balance bias.

Think about it.
The problem only exists with hands off the bars, right?
Taking your hands off the bars greatly reduces the weight/pressure on the front tire.

Frankly, this whole thing begs the question "who cares what the bike does with hands off?"
You can't ride without using your hands, so it's pretty much a moot point anyway.
If the "problem" doesn't exist when riding properly and in control with both hands on the bars, then it's not really a "problem".
But, I digress...

Try raising the stanchions 12mm in the triple clamps.
If you don't like it you can always go back to the original setting.
It's easy and it's free.
*Assuming the suspension is properly adjusted for one's weight and riding style (set static sag correctly), and both tires are correctly inflated.

Has anyone heard of the handling problem with the new Triumph 675 Daytona? (I drool for one of those!)
It seems in Triumph's desire for "quick" handling (short Rake & Trail), they went a bit too far by raising the rear end excessively.
The easy solution has been to lower the fork tubes, effectively raising the front end in regards to the rear, thereby shifting the weight balance back and balancing the bike better, and reducing the Rake/Trail somewhat to relax the turning slightly.
The result has been light-steering and dead-neutral handling.

*My advice is not to be interpreted as directly aimed at the OP, rather it's intended to be considered by any interested person.
I've read of the "VFR No-Hands Headshake" issue previously, and in light of this apparently wide-spread contentious issue, I thought I'd use this thread to offer my opinion.
Also, I'm not simply arguing to make a point, I believe my point is valid and very pertinent to the issue.

Another example:
My 2001 R1 had a reputation for nasty headshake and being an ill-handling cantankerous beast when ridden aggressively.
I found that out myself.
A Steering Damper was considered to be mandatory to control the unruly animal and stay alive aboard it.
Adults cried and children screamed. Small pets fled for cover.
"There's an R1 coming and we all know they're COMPLETELY OUT OF CONTROL!!!"

Then I set about adjusting the suspension correctly.
I first set Static Sag via Spring Preload, then Compression Damping, finally Rebound Damping.
I backed off all Damping to full soft (Baseline), and worked up from there.

The bike was transformed, although I felt it still had slightly too much rear balance bias.
After raising the fork tubes 12mm (lowering the front end), the bike was absolutely unflappable.
It made possible extreme lean angles on chewed up and bumpy pavement, at high speed, and WFO acceleration out of the slowest hairpins with unintended 3rd & 4th gear power wheelies.
No significant headshake. Only an occasional light wiggle, usually the result of my own riding position.
The bike was absolutely ROCK-STINKING-SOLID at any speed, no matter how hard I flogged it.
Never had a steering damper.

I did the same with my 1987 GSXR750 based on a more experienced rider's advice (raised 3/4") way back then, and the result was the same.
I knew much less about these things then as I do now, but I knew that it worked.
The environment was extremely high speeds in Germany on Autobahns, Nurburgring, Spa, and rural backroads at crazy velocities.
That bike gave me the confidence to try anything.

Proper suspension setup also includes Ride Height.
FWIW, different tires may need an entirely different setup (Ride Height, Damping) based on their individual characteristics and dimensions.
Also remember that tire inflation pressure is another important component for proper handling.

 

Problem with tyres? I do not know...

Hallo guys. I have a little strange behaviour on my 3 gen vfr. When i take a loong nice curve deccelerating gently the bike waves.. Hard to describe precisely but i wiil try. It is as it raises a little and dives again, raises and dives ever so gently at app 50 mph. Feels like "rubber frame". Ever experienced this?
Checked the frame, head, forks, swinger alignment. Wheels are pefectly round, no side cast, wheel bearings OK. All perfect! Tyres? Michelin 180/55 MACADAM on the rear and Bridgestone 120/70 BATTLAX bt 57 on front.Anyone has a clue?

 

While in a curve you should have on a steady throttle not decelerating. Changing your throttle will effect the handling of the bike and cause unwanted results. You wanted to decel before the corner, slight and steady throttle through the corner and accelerate out of the corner exit. Your forks may also be a bit weak so you want to be sure it has fresh fork oil with the right weight in them.

Back to your regular schedule topic ..........

 

Thanks for the tip. As it comes to handling a bike i am not a newbe (60 years of age) riding on and off since i was 16. But you touched a soft spot mentioning Forks. I suspected it and changed the oil for a little denser. Did not have a chance to test it since it is bitterly cold, wet and windy. In other words - Denmark.
Thanks again, now i can sleep peacefully.
Regards, Andrew

 

worn or loose steering bearings (or wheel bearings) as well as worn fork bushings can contribute to wheel shake and should be checked if new tyres or raising forks doesn't cure the problem.....

 

I agree with squirrelman about the steering head bearings. They could be loose and be a cause of this. Or it could be the sucky dunlops. I've never had a front dunlop NOT cause a head shake after a little mileage. And that is on a variety of bikes. I switched to avons and have had no problems at all.

 

I also think it's just a tire problem. Off topic, I had the pleasure of visiting Debrovnic in 1996 when I was on a US Navy ship. That's a beautiful, old city.


Lane

 

I'm going to have to go with what others have mentioned that it's steering head or suspension problems.

My '04 did it with all make tyres (chlins, Metz. Piril's) then I tuned up the front end, got rid of the linked brakes, tightened the stem, & threw on Qualifiers & it rails now.

When I put on the D616's for the Fall winter riding, bike still railed & handled great.

Oh & the D220's 607's Dunlops did tend to cup & I didn't like them, but the Qualifiers, & D616's rock, & this spring the new raved Dunlop Street Smarts will go on the VFR & ST :biggrin:

(No more D220's, they have been replaced with the Street Smarts)

 

On the issue of fork oil, I need to replace mine. What would any of you recommend for a 98 VFR ridden by a 90kg bloke. Cheers