power ocmmander and pairs valve

hi, new to the forum, not so much to Hondas....

Two questions really (if this is old hat, please feel free to direct me to the appropriate thread).

I have the o6 vtec vfr (much loved) with standard programme pcv5 and the o2 eliminators/kn filter to address the jerky gear changes at low speed, This certainly helps. Would the pairs valve, snorkel removal and flapper block make any improvement? Not for speed, more for comfort?

Secondly is it common for the change to 2nd at speed eg after moderately higher revs to gently shudder occasionally until the gear kicks in, no obvious slipping and it doesn't do it in everyday use?

many thanks for any advice....

 

Gently shuddering after shifting to 2nd? That doesn't sound good. Assuming this is not fuelling related, then I'd have guessed that a shudder could be a bit of clutch slip. I've had dodgy second gear on a Suzuki and that appeared as a dramatic lurch as the dogs/slots disengaged and re-engaged, definitely nothing you'd describe as "gentle".

Do the basics first, check the chain tension and bleed the clutch and lube the pivot. If it's still there and you're keen you could look at fitting new fibre plates and springs to the clutch. I did this on my 5th gen this last weekend, and it only cost me US$80 in parts.

 

You will hear conflicting reports on PAIR valve, flapper and snorkel mods so take each with a grain of salt. The one truth I have heard regarding the PAIR valve is that it either needs to be removed or disabled if you're having the bike Dyno-tuned. As far as flapper valve and snorkel, I did these two mods and only really found that they increased intake noise, I saw no real world benefit to them, so I put the bike back to stock.

That being said, starter valve sync seems to be more beneficial that any of the other mods mentioned. Of course, this info is served with a dose of salt with the caveat of YMMV.

Cheers

 

From what I understand these bikes like the chain to be on the looser side of the spec, not the tighter side.

What is the ownership history and experience of the riders?

 

Hey D, how hard is it to remove the pair valve?
When I just had the dyno re mapped, he was surprised I still had it on my bike, and of course he deleted it while doin the dyno but suggested removing it. Hard or simple?

 

Simple, simple. Lift the tank, running the air filter box, there is a black hose to the top of each cam cover. These lead to a box thing on the back of the air filter. This has an electrical connection to it. Remove all of it. I used some vacuum caps that fit a AA battery. It's the perfect size. Or, you can get PAIR block off plates. Those clean up your engine space a bit. I still have the pair valve and hoses from my 6th G.

 

And the reason for said mod?

 

Thanks Chester

 

Super easy to remove the PAIR valves. Done it on both my 6th gens now. It does smooth things out a bit along with the flapper mod.

The lower RPM range isn't nearly as jerky, and it will eliminate popping on decel - in particular if you're running aftermarket / modified exhaust.

5lbs of uselessness gone. I put mine on a shelf in the event I ever need it.

 

Cool, I'll do it nex t week before Reg's.
Thanks Jeff

 

No problem. Just make sure you plug the vacuum hose that normally attaches to the flapper valve if you do that mod.