Post crash vibration

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by Lint, Feb 27, 2018.

  1. Lint

    Lint Member

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    Hey all.

    First, let me say that my bike is running very well. Since the crash, I was able to upload a new map to the Power Commander 2 I have and what a difference it has made. I think before it was running very lean, which may have been a big factor in my high temps. I have a nice gurgle on over-run now that wasn't as noticeable before.

    I will b e pulling all the fairings off again to start my Plasti-Dip color experiments, so since my bike did take quite a wallop, I would like to loosen and re-torque all of the engine mounts. The engine is most definitely much more coarse in the vibes, noticeably so. Runs like race bike, but the mirrors are super fuzzy now, where they used to be very clear. I will also be sending my injectors in for cleaning just as soon as I can actually get the one screw out of my velocity stack. Even with a special Japanese screwdriver as recommended by OOTV, I can't get it out and I"m afraid it's near to being stripped. Also, while it's naked, I'll double check all electrical connections and grounds as well as change the plugs and balance the starter valves.

    So, please correct me if I have my generations wrong, but isn't there a engine mount bolt that is backwards, while all of the others are normal? If so, then which bolt is it? I sure as hell don't want to break it!!! If anyone could guide me in the service manual, I'd be grateful. I'll look right now, but first hand experience goes a long ways, even with the FSM.

    Thank you.

    P.S. the vibration is most definitely engine related, as it perfectly matches engine rpm.

    :wheelie::wheelie::wheelie::wheelie::wheelie:
     
  2. Lint

    Lint Member

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    I looked in the FSM and I didn't see anything. Is this a 6th gen issue I am thinking of?

    ETA, in regards to supporting the engine, I should just need a jack with a chunk of wood on it to support it while I loosen/torque the bolts, correct?
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2018
  3. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    My recollection is that it is the center stand bolt that is reversed threaded and not an engine mount bolt. That's not to say that there can't be both!

    As far as that stubborn screw goes, you can always try and use a left handed drill bit and drill it out. Of course take extra precaution with the TB openings, as any material that falls in there will be going straight into the motor. I had a broken rotor bolt that I needed to remove and after drilling a pilot hole, using the proper sized left handed drill for drilling out the bolt, it came out with ease. I guess when the bit caught enough of the bolt, rather than cutting into it, it just unscrewed it.
     
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  4. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    I'm sure you've heard it before but I forgot to mention it. There are JIS impact drivers that might do the trick, rather than drilling it out. As you might imagine, I have one of these too! If you want to get your own, they're about $15 on eBay. I'm a little learing of using too much hammering force on the TB, I'd hate to smack down on the driver and have it crack the TB, but none the less, could be an option.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vessel-Meg...264733&hash=item3b02ebfce2:g:IRcAAOSwhFFak33x

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. KizerSosay

    KizerSosay New Member

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    Good luck with this. I had the exact same thing happen on the last screw I tried to take out of my stacks. I totally butchered mine and had to use an impact drill with a stripped screw extractor. I hate when steel screws cold weld to aluminum. Completely stripped the head so I had to source a new screw and collar from the hardware store to make one that matched the factory one.
     
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