Please help, I wanna ride!

Ok, so my friend bought an 85 interceptor 500 from his friend. I have an 84 CB700sc: LIKE THIS . (the one picture is actually mine :biggrin: )
Anyway, while we were teaching him to ride it, he proceeded to crash it into a curb. Luckliy, only the front forks were damaged. He doesn't have the internet to order parts or the mechanical know-how to work on the bike so I have to do all of this for him. I order a set of forks off of ebay which need new seals, so I ordered those too. Anyway... does anyone know where I can get a tutorial on both:

1. Fork seal replacement
2. Fork removal/installation

Has anyone done this before that could type up some instructions for me? We have a week of nice weather coming here and I want him to be able to ride with us a little bit. Thanks for any assistance.

 

Get a Haynes or Clymer manual. It will have the instructions and pictures too. For the first time, it will take at least 1 day to R&R the fork seals.

The fork seals can be changed with the fork tubes still on the bike - or not. The problem with changing the seals with the fork tubes on the bike is supporting the bike high enough to pull the sliders off. For the first time, I recommend removing the fork tubes.

1. Drain the fork fluid by putting bike on centerstand and:
- Release any air in the forks
- Remove the drain bolt in the bottom of the forks. (here is where a manual would come in handy)
- Oil will get everywhere. Use newspaper to cover the wheel/rotor to assist draining into pan. I used masking tape to hold the newpaper to the wheel/rotor.
- Push down on forks several times to push out any oil.
- Reinstall drain bolts to keep oil from dripping out.

2. Remove the front brake calipers and set them on a support - don't just let them hang by the brake line. Either block off the brake handle or wedge something between the pads to keep the pistons from coming out if the brake handle is depressed.

3. Remove the front wheel and then the brace and fender.
- Remove the allen bolt on the bottom of the fork.
- If it spins, you will need an air wrench to remove the bolt. This allen bolt attaches to the rod inside the tube. This rod can spin if pressure is not exerted on it. The spring inside the fork tube applies pressure to this rod but it may still spin.

4. Remove the fork cap:
- The cap is soft aluminum and can be stripped very easily. Do not use a crescent wrench.
- Use a six sided socket (buy one if you have to)
- All sockets have a tapered lip to them before the hex cuts begin. Grid the lip of the socket down until the hex cuts are level with the lip of the socket
- Again, be sure the bike is securely supported and the tank/instruments are covered with a soft towel.
- Applying strong downward pressure, use even pressure to unscrew the fork cap.
- The cap will be under pressure from the spring in the fork, so be careful upon final removal as it will try to shoot out a little bit

5. Remove the spacer and spring.

6. Repeat for other fork.

7. Remove the Fork Seal circlip from its groove in the fork slider by prying up the dust seal cover and using angled snap ring pliers
- These are commonly in poor condition and can be rusted to the fork slider
- If stuck, use penetrating liquid and wait
- If broken, it can still be removed by judicious use of dental pick and snap ring pliers
- Rotating the slider will allow better access angles to the circlip

* If leaving forks on bike, Skip to Step 9 *

8. Remove forks from bike by loosening upper and lower Triple clamps. Slide tubes out from the bottom. Mark where the fork tube lines up with top of triple clamp.

9. Separate the fork tube and the slider by grasping one in each hand and forcefully pulling apart. It may several pulls

10. Clean parts and replace brass bushing if necessary - it probably is. Also I recommend to purchase new circlips if old ones worn out or bent.

11. Cleaning TRAC unit is recommended but not necessary.

12. Seal driver can be made out of PVC pipe and/or Coupler
- if leaving forks on bike, a custom seal driver will need to be made

13. Clean fork tubes making sure they are smooth as a baby's butt. Crocus cloth can be used to smooth out any pits or protusions. Clean out crud inside the tube to verify everything is clean.

14. Closely inspect the area where the fork seal will be sliding. It must be close to perfect condition

15. If leaving forks on bike, verify dust cover is already on fork tube and slide the circlip up, and then slide the new seal up from the bottom

15a. If forks are removed from bike, slide old seal up from bottom and then slide up the new seal.
- The old seal will serve as a buffer to insure the new seal is not damaged when installed.

16. Install slider and install allen bolt at the bottom of the fork slider to hold it to the fork tube. You probably will not be able to torque to spec now.

17. Install seal using driver. It will take some force to get the seal mounted. You can feel when it is solidly mounted.
- If forks on bike, make sure the circlip is above the driver.

18. Install circlip into groove in slider and then dust cover.
- Personally, I pack some grease on top of the circlip to keep water from rusting it. You may see some of the grease on the fork slider the first few times you ride, but it will go away.

19. Install spring, slider into bike and add appropriate amount of Fork Oil. If forks are off bike, align forks with marks made in step 8. Tighten Triple clamps.
- Do not use the Recommended ATF - its viscosity is not regulated and can vary by bottle/mfg.
- 10 weight is recommended for light to medium frame riders
- 15 to 20 weight is recommended for medium to large frame riders

20. Initially install Fork Caps with hand on top of socket if possible. If not, use socket and rachet.
- Careful, these caps are aluminum and with the fork tubes being steel it is easy to cross thread. Use 3-1 oil or WD40 to lube cap threads to keep from seizing.

21. Install is reversal of removal (don't cha love that phrase?) for the rest of the front end. Don't forget to torque the allen bolt at the bottom of the forks. And inspect the brake pads and rotors for errant fork oil.

22. Once everything is installed loosen Triple Clamps slightly and torque the bolts starting from the axle and work your way up.

23. Gear up and take the bike for a test ride. Gradually build up speed paying close attention to the feel of the bike on smooth roads, rough roads, and turns.

24. You are now done and can be confident that everything was done correctly - because you care more about your bike than a dealer will.

Below are some tips and pictures that may help you in your fork rebuild.

http://users.metro2000.net/~cdc/mag...ring the v65 magna/lowering the v65 magna.htm

http://v4hondabbs.com/index.php?topic=6338.0

Tip: Have you tried reconditioning your seals first?

Method 1: Raise the dust cap and apply several layers of packing tape around the fork tube just above the fork seal. Pump the forks several times causing the packing tape to go into the seal and remove the crud contaminating it. Carefully remove packing tape/oil and crud.

Method 2. Cut 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper into a 6"" by 6" square. Bevel one end by cutting off the corners - leaving a rough looking crescent shape. Raise the dust cover and wrap sandpaper around fork tube with beveled end down. Super glue the overlapping sandpaper to form a sandpaper tube. Make sure there is just enough clearance to still slide the paper along the tube. Work the sandpaper into the seal and spin the paper 5 or 6 times in the SAME direction. Don't go back and forth. Pull sandpaper up, carefully cut off fork and reinstall the dust cover.

Hope this helps!

 

That was one heck of a post #2 for you, mason!

Frickin awesome!!!

 

Yeah it was.

xN8x: it's not as difficult as it seems. Just make sure the bike is in a garage, so you can walk away from it if you want. Don't do this in a driveway. (This is the voice of experience talking!)

 

Reviewed my procedure and made some changes. Removed step 16 and edited steps 15 and (new)17, and 19.