Picking up a used 2000 VFR800FI Interceptor Any help on what to look for.

Hi will be picking up a 2000 yellow 800. The bike has 26,787 miles on it looks to be in great shape just minor scratches. Will be changing all the fluids. Motor sounds good clutch feels ok. Just wondering if there were recalls on this model looking for any general info.
Thanks

 

Replace or have them handy.............RR and VFRhardness

 

Thanks is there a way to know if RR VFR harness was changed. Read some info on this yesterday.

 

I am not sure since I don't own a 5th gen.........I am sure many will chim in soon to help you.
Drew should be able to help you cause he did his not too long ago

 

I don't know if there's a specific way to tell. On my 2000, if you take the seat off, you can actually see the serial number on top of the R/R without removing the tail piece of plastic. So if you can see a SN, punch that number into Google and it'll probably tell you where that RR is from. Mine, for example, is off a Blackbird.

Probably can't tell about the wiring harness without taking the tail plastic off.

If you are going to take the bike for a test ride, bring an air pressure gauge. Check the tires first. I think its 41 in the front and 36 in the rear? It says right on the chain guard. Just make sure you are close to those pressures - doesn't have to be exact.

If you have one handy, bring a multi-meter. Check the battery/charging system. Engine off, you should read like 12.7. Engine at idle, I believe its about 13.2. Engine at 5000rpms, I think its around 14.5. Again, this isn't exact, but pretty close. For example, if you're seeing over 15 at 5000rpms, could be a concern.

The obvious questions: Ask about service records, oil changes, etc.

Not sure where you live, but understand these bikes are notorious for running hot. There's lots of things you can do to address this (which I won't get into now), but its not uncommon to see the bike run in the 190* to 200+* range. Stop and Go on a hot day and you'll see 220* in no time at all. At about 220-222, the fan should kick on. Make sure it does. The fan will stay on until you drop down to about 211.

Check the chain. Lubed? Original (possible, but that would be a lot of miles on the original chain). Any significant tight spots?

Does it come with the cowl for the seat? Nice to have - hard to find if not.

Owner manual?

Passenger grab handles?

That's about all I can offer for now as far as looking the bike over. Good luck, and when/if you get it, let us know and post some pictures.

 

+1 on everything Pliskin said. General condition will tell you a lot about how the bike was treated. If it's clean and just has a few scratches, it makes sense that it was probably maintained pretty well. These bikes are very durable and will run a LOT of miles if treated right. Check or ask for service records, valve adjustments, oil changes, etc.
The other piece of the puzzle is getting it at the right price. You can put up with a few things that aren't 'just right' for the right price. For instance, a set of tires will run you anywhere from $200-400.
Good luck and let us know how you made out!

 

Thanks for the help, I made the purchase.

Thanks for all the help I purchased the bike and so far I'm loving it. I was hoping someone could explain to me where the oil filter is? I'd like to do an oil change on it as the oil looks pretty dirty in it. Also I'm having a little issue with the chain, I haven't noticed anything while driving but someone pointed out to me that the chain looked kind of low and upon inspection it looks like it's rubbing against the bike stand, here's some pictures to explain it a little better.

Pictures of my bike:


Chain situation:

 

Congrats on the bike. I'm sure you're gonna love it.

Your chain definitely appears to be loose, at a minimum. Whether its stretched beyond being able to be tightened or if you're sprockets are shot, I can't tell.

Do you have the owners manual? That would be the easiest as far as explaining how to tighten it.

Put the bike on the centerstand.

There's a 17mm nut on your rear hub. Loosen that up. Hopefully you had a tool kit come with the bike??? Inside that should be a spanner wrench. Its a "weird" looking tool if you don't know what it is. Then sitting right next to your sprocket on the inside is a "cog". You hook the spanner wrench to that, and move it in small increments to tighten or loosen your chain. I don't recall which way is which, but I'm sure you can figure that out. Move it, and check your chain tension. You need to make sure you check the tension in various spots, so rotate the rear wheel while checking multiple intervals on the chain. Its inevitable that you WILL have tight spots on your chain. Set the tension to meet the requirements (shown on the chain guard) based on the tightest spot on your chain. Once you have the chain tension adjusted, then tighten that 17mm nut back up.

Your oil filter is located on the left side of the bike, at the bottom, behind the fairing. You'll need to take the left fairing off to get to it. Again, a service manual would come in handy here. When you change your oil filter, don't forget to replace the 12mm crush washer. Its a forty cent item. You can usually use them for more than one oil change, but seeing as how you don't know how long this one has been used for, replace it.

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks for the help Pliskin, I was able to tighten the chain up but I made it a little too tight and it was making a sawing sound, I also downloaded the service manual PDF which maybe it can help me find that "Sweet" spot. Great bike, it rides amazing I couldn't be happier. Oil change next weekend then it's mod time

Do you know any websites that sell MODS for the bike at a good price? I'd like to replace the visor, mirrors and browse to see what else I can do with this baby.

 

The chain has been fixed, I was wondering if anyone could recommend spark plugs for the bike? Also where is the air filter located? And any brands you recommend for that?

Thanks again for all the help

 

Yellow - Mods is a broad term. What are looking for? Exhaust? Seat? Grips? Heli Bars? Tires? Windscreen? Levers? General bling? The list goes on. And not that I mind helping out when I can, but the search function on this forum (upper right corner) can reveal tons of info. There's very few items that come up that haven't already been discussed.

As for your chain: again, I don't know how old it is. If you are finding multiple tight spots, it may be time for a new chain. And if you're doing the chain, you might as well do sprockets. Otherwise you're asking to damage one or the other prematurely. Its always better to be a little loose on the chain than too tight. Sawing noise is not good. And keep it lubed. Its best to lube the chain after a ride when its warm, then let it sit overnight. I lube the shit outta my chain, and do it about every 250 miles.

Spark Plugs - Some say go with iridium. Others say go with stock Honda. Personal preference.

Air Filter - Under the gas tank. You can remove the 2 bolts at the front of the tank - by the bar. It will tilt back, so you don't need to take the rear ones out. When you lift the gas tank, pay attention to where the hoses are attached and where they are routed, so if you happen to have one pop out of place, you know where it goes. (That's most likely to only happen with your vent hose, which just snakes along the engine and empties out onto the ground).

Once you tilt the tank back enough to give you room to work, you can prop the tank up with a piece of wood or whatever your comfortable using. Can't remember - something like 8 or 10 bolts that hold the air filter in.

Asking for a brand of air filter to use is not much different than asking what oil or what tires to use. Personal preference, and the debates are endless. Stock filter was created by Honda engineers - do you want to argue with them? I'm sure it works fine. K&N is the only way to go for some, others will never use a K&N. Again, search, read some forums, and form you're own opinion. Me personally? I use a K&N.

 

I tried the more expensive iridium plugs and they didn't last very long at all. Couldn't tell a bit of difference either. I stick with the stock ngk plugs and it runs great. You have gotten a lot of good advice but it can't be said enough to make sure your r/ has been upgraded. Another thing I have had a problem with is bodywork cracking at the fender and rear tailsection mounting bolts. Mainly my fault for over tightening but something to be careful for. Another thing thing is when you prop your tank up to service the air filter be sure all the hoses are still attached when you are putting it back down. A cheap, well free if you have a 5mm thick washer, is to take your shock off and place it under your frame to raise the rear end some. Really helped me with cornering. It has been so long since. Did it I wouldn't know what thread to direct you to. But I. Know there is a really good one on here on how to do it. Congrats on your bike. If you don't mind me asking how much did you give for it.

 

taylor I bought it for 3500

 

Thanks, that's a good price. Was just wondering what they are going for now as mine has about the same miles as yours. I rode mine today for about 150 mile and still enjoy it like the day I got it. They are great bikes

 

Your best bet at learning how to do all the maintenance items is gonna be to pick up a shop manual. I have a Clymer one and it is excellent. It'l walk you through everything step by step with pictures. Also has a maintenance table to tell you when certain items should be addressed. Err on the loose side for chain adjustment as overtightening will eat it up. As far as the plugs go, the factory ones are NGK and I believe they are an iridium tipped plug, I'll have to check. If the NGK plug number ends in EIX then it is an iridium tipped plug.