PC II vs PC III USB

I have a '98 VFR with a K&N air filter and a Vance & Hines Ti slip on. I have an old PC II I bought when they came out and it has a pretty good map on it and works. I just bought a new PC III USB and will more than likely take it to a dyno and have a custom map done. My question is this: The Dynojet rep told me the old PC II does basically what the III does with the addition of timing changes that the newer models don't have. He said the newer one alters the output of the signal vs the input of the PC II. I have a basic understanding of the way these things work but when it gets down to the specific pluses and minuses of each unit I'm a bit baffled. It sounds as if the old PC II has a big advantage over the newer PC III due to its ability to alter timing but I'm not sure. Please help me understand which one I should use. I'm fairly certain the old PC II couldn't even be used on a dyno due to it's older connection/software but I'm not certain of that either.

 

Sounds like you should sell your PC2, return the PC3 and buy a Rapid Bike Racing module, as Rapid bike is more modern than the PC2 and 3, plus it can 3 dimensionally map both fuel and ignition.

 

In retrospect I should have prefaced my post by stating I have no interest in purchasing a Rapid Bike Racing module but that's water under the proverbial bridge. Just want better fueling and a bit more HP/torque if possible and better gas mileage as well. Don't expect to change the bike dramatically-that's why I will use the PC.

 

Ha it's the software reading and the fact nothing reads the PC2 anymore. Which only leaves the PC3 option ( Yes you could use PC5 but you shouldn't on 98-99 5th gens maybe the 00-01 5.5 version ) The PC2 had a ignition bit to it as slight as it was, but was more for the 3rd and 4th gens So go with the PC3 and the tune, it works out pretty good for the money.

 

Thanks RVFR-that's advice I can use. To the Dyno!

 

Believe it or not I had to return the PC3 as the wiring harness would not fit between the frame spar and the engine to even install it. WTF?

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What? yes it's a tight sorta fit getting the plugs in through there, but doable.

 

I'm no mechanic but I can see and feel and there was no way to get the round plugs between the frame and engine nor the unit itself without removing unknown (to me) parts-there is clearly a way to get anything between whatever if one is willing to invest the time and effort but this is advertised as a plug and play device and the enclosed photos of the actual install showed no removal of any parts or anything beyond simply threading the wiring harness between the engine and frame and plugging it in. Maybe if the instructions had been better (these are the actual photos from the Dynojet website) I might have been more successful... Oh well, I guess I'll have to be satisfied with my relic from the Dark Ages the PC II.

 

No No don't beat yourself up.. Yes, I recall a close to major undertaking in this as well, left mid faring came off. doh tank lifted up,
un did the air box to make it lose IIRC the pair valve hose is the biggie thats in the way, if it helps I may be able to take a photo of how I routed it , once in place, it is plug and play.

 

The instruction showed raising the tank, taking the mid and left fairings off and that was all. I might yet buy another one if I can figure out a way to install it and go to a Dyno. Thanks for all the info.

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Yea, they don't tell you that there's a couple things there in the way do they, the other which doesn't really move much is the linked brake lines. again, all though APITA it does fit .

 

A darn near 20 year year old bike with darn near 20 year old hookups. Shoehorning in recent USB stuff ain't gonna be a problem? LOL.. CR offered a solution and for some reason that was rejected. What's next? Baling wire and spit?

 

Sure for $850 for the rapid bike module and the tuning adapter- bailing wire would be much cheaper.

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One more time, Rapid bike does not cost $850....

 

Ya know, that's funny, never thought about using spit. I few choice words, yes. but not spit ok CR I've looked it over more than a couple times and it keeps looking into the $700 area. Just saying.

 

Probably a good idea to get some shrinktube with that baling wire.

 

Maybe one of those 2-3 K pipe setups might get this guy what he's looking for. Peso wise that's a shitload of bucks to spend on a nearly 20 year old bike. Why not just stick with whacha got. Seems like CR did have a discount going for his suggested hookup and the question might be how much does a dyno run cost and is it necessary with the Rapid Bike setup?

I thankee Jesus for carburetors, cable throttles and my 91 Mach one.

 

Now I know why people stay off these forums.

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Trumping right along...https://www.dragonheart.nl/uploads/...ofwel-Wildebeest-taxidermy-geprepareerd-5.jpg

FAKE Gnus:

 

I guess I'll have to be satisfied with what I have-no use pining away over power that's not available, more accurate fuelling, better gas mileage or smoother throttle response. Those things cost money.