PAIR block/Starter valve question for 5th gen

Ok, I have been reading and absorbing info for the last week here by just using SEARCH. But two things I find "gray" or shady is the PAIR block issue as well as the starter valve sync. Is the pair block something that I need to check and see that has been done? If not, should I do it, or is this a waste of time? Also, regarding resyncing my starter valve, Isn't this the same thing as syncing carbs plates? I do have a set of mercury gauges I used on the old magna. Do I need to check and see if this is in spec? If I have missed write-up's on these procedures, I apologize. Just trying to find definite answers.

 

PAIR valves are usually talked about when modding the VFR. Many think that this improves throttle response in some way or another. I can't verify this personally as I have not done the mod, but I can also say with quite some confidence that I've never seen conclusive evidence that it does anything (i.e. dyno graph). All the results that I've seen on the issue are personal experience and claims. This isn't to say that the mod is useless or that people don't know what they are talking about, it is simply that you can't find some sort of scientific evidence to prove what the mod does. The mod entails removing parts from the PAIR valves so that they simply do not function. Many use block off plates and remove the valves, while others simply block the hoses to them with something such as a large ball bearing. Below is a link to the VFR Wiki concerning the PAIR valves.

Pair Valve Blockoff Mod - VFRwiki

It is also worth mentioning that I've never heard of someone doing it to a 5th gen, but most of my research has been focused on the 6th gen as it is what I own. This doesn't mean nobody has done it as I'm sure many have. It just seems that more people find the throttle response troublesome on the 6th gen and some manage to deal with it in this manner. If you have some jerky throttle response it is possible that doing this could help you out.

The PAIR valves are basically emissions control crap and can be done without. The PAIR valves exist on each cylinder head and contain reed valves. These can be checked for damage/wear and replaced as needed for those keeping things stock, or can be removed and blocked off with plates as well. I don't believe the service manual says anything about a regular check interval for these or that there is a tolerance spec for these. They are either in good shape and functional, or non-functional and need replaced.

Upon looking at the service manual for the starter valves, I don't think that they have a service interval either. It does require that the airbox be removed as well as the PAIR valves be blocked off in some way, and the MAP sensor disconnected. There is a 5-way vacuum joint for the starer valves and you must have a vacuum guage connected there for this. You set your idle speed then adjust cylinders 1, 2, and 3 to match cylinder 4 so that they are all in sync. Put everything back together and re-adjust the idle speed if necessary.

If you aren't having issues, with either that you are aware of, I don't think that inspecting them or adjusting them is necessary from what I know and have read. I've basically regurgitated everything I know about the two here but please don't take it as the truth unless others can confirm. I've not messed with either system and as such I can most certainly say that I'm not the most qualified here to be giving the information. On the other hand, I'm like you and have researched some things to death but I have also asked some questions via private message and in chat to gain a little further insight into both of these.

Hope this helps!

 

I had a few "surging" issues with my 5th gen,and I did the sync as well as removed the pair system at the same time.And boy is it a different bike!!
It is smooth all over and seems to have better low down power,and slow speed manovering is way better.
Also I have a k&n air filter and a madaz pipe on mine.No power commander(yet)
And with mine I balanced them all the same, and it seems to run better than what the manual says.Maybe it has something to do with the pipe and filter??
Give it a go!!:thumbsup:

 

Thanks for the help guys!

 

the wiki link posted above isn't working