Only clicking sound when trying to start the bike

When I try to start the headlights/panel dim like normal, but I only get a clicking sound.

This started happening a couple of days ago, I was leaving my buddies place and it wouldn't turn over, I was able to get it push started and rode it home.

Since then, I've pulled the battery and took it to autozone, they said it was just under 12 volts (meaning it was fine).

Should I get it recharged anyway, try jumping the bike from a car (would that hurt the electricals?)

 

yeah I would say battery for sure. Mine did that and I would leave it on a tender most of the time. One day after pulling it off the charger, I got 5 miles to a buddy's house and it wouldn't start back up...just clicking (fast). I bought a new battery and it's been smooth sailing ever since. Autozone doesn't know what they are doing. They said mine was fine, too. I took it to a Honda dealer and they said it "NEEDS REPLACING" on the little screen...

 

It should be greater than 12.6V to be OK;

Battery Tutorial

There's a chart about half way down the page that shows "State of Charge". The rest of the page is worth reading, too.

 

Jumped right up, so glad that it's the battery.

Heading to walmart now to pick one up

 

Whoa. Try 'the car MUST not be running'. Most cars have a charging (regulated) voltage higher than the electrical system on your bike can handle. It's okay to jump from a car battery, just don't have the car running or you are likely to fry something on the bike.

 

While I'm on here, how hard is it to change the clutch fluid? Do I really need a vacuum system for it?

I also want to do the oil, that's not too hard, is it?

I've done basic maintenance on cars before, anything different on bikes I should know about?

 

Okay, so I went out riding with my lady today... got 9 miles out of town before my bike died when it went into first...


Jumping it only kept it alive for a little bit, thankfully a guy named Greg in a truck helped me load it in the back and gave us both a ride back!


I found the 90-96 manual online, is there much difference for a 97? Or can I troubleshoot it with those specs?

 

speaking specifically from cars, if you have a dying battery and keep running on it, you tax your charging and starting system fairly hard. if Bikes are anything similar, then running the bike on a near dead battery for any extended length of time can take out your charging system. it might not happen right away, like your case or it could be the problem that took out the battery. one of the reasons you pay a shop so much to check your battery/charging/starting on a car. a problem with one can often have negative side-affects to the others.

look at all the components carefully and replace anything and everything suspect and properly CHECK they system function once done.
:thumbup:

Cheers
Mitch

 

For the clutch fluid you just need to bleed it through the nipple at the bottom. DON'T bleed all the fluid out - take off the 2 small screws on the clutch fluid cover and top it off from there as you go.

Haven't changed the oil yet on the VFR, it looks easy to do though as soon as you get the belly fairing off ...

 

Its a pain in da-arse! Bleeding a clutch on this bike, I have an air assisted bleeder and its the only way to go. If your un-familar with master cylinders and bleeding brakes/clutches on bikes, I would take it to a shop or have a friend that has some experience with it help you. You bleed a clutch at the slave cylinder which is where your counter sprocket is, sometimes after the entire bleed session you still may not be happy with the lever; at that point you can crack the banjo bolt that goes to the clutch master (of course your holding the lever all the way to the grip so you dont get air in there, I like a zip tie) have a water bottle around cause brake fluid will fuck your paint. Have fun, I do when I work on my own stuff.

 

Is 2mA out of spec for acceptable draw on this bike as per the service manual?

And with cars we start at the fuse panel by pulling fuses to isolate the circuit with the draw. Once you isolate the circuit in question, use your wiring diagram so trace the harness and locate to point of concern. Be sure to disconnect all connection/connectors in the circuit one at a time.

It's unlikely the tester is causing a 2mA draw but it's not impossible.

 

So I deleted the comment Shmee is referring too...


Anyway, it's definitely a burned connection on the regulator/rectifier...

Do I just replace the connector and call it a day or...?

There is also what appears to be a cpu fan bolted to it, I take it this is non standard

 

Also looks like there's no coolant in this thing, auto coolant works fine?

 

I kinda suck at soldering, are there replacement connectors?

Also, pics!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...30183671422.2055325.1137750334&type=1&theater
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...30183671422.2055325.1137750334&type=1&theater

 

You're saying solder directly to r/r, right?