One more toasted R/R again.

Well I had to jump start the bike today to go fetch a pack of smokes. No big deal. Road
Out n got me fix. Road back home and she died coming up the driveway. Tick tick tick was all I got. I just replaced it in April.
I need a replacement that works.

 

http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm

I have this on my 93 and it works titz, my 91 has a FH regulator from a 2006 or so CBR1000. You need to check your stator and make sure its good, connections not fried, etc. If I were you, I would pop for a new stator 0EM and that above mentioned r/r. Easy for me to talk I know, just think of your viffer as your dog/cat/goat/parrot, you wana give her the best care right :loco: ound: Peace outie

 

And it was running so sweet to.

 

Do you have a voltmeter fitted, that would tell you something wasn't right as soon as you jump started it. Lucky you didn't get stranded, very easily could have. Are you still using the factory plug connector? And by giving up the smokes you will have plenty of money to buy good parts. Not really sure how much smokes cost over there but out here one cigarette costs about $1

 

Im just over the state line in NY and ride to PA to save $4 a pack. They cost $10 a pack in this state.

 

I believe they are $25 for a pack of 25 here, starting to get serious money for a pack of smokes

 

I do the same - head to PA and save about $2 a pack. Are you close to any Indian reservations? They're always willing to take your wampum.

 

I have these on my V4s. Put them on last year. So far, so good. They run cool and no more dead / exploding batteries.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mosfet-Volt...009-/331440222521?hash=item4d2b607139&vxp=mtr

The price is right, too.

 

If he goes for those, the extra red and green wire go to the respective battery terminals. You nan mix the yellows as the stator does not care. Good price, thank you china :loco:

 

Solder in the new one and it should be good to go for the life of ownership.

Jose

 

OK, I put this R/R ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mosfet-Volt...222521?hash=item4d2b607139&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true ) on my 1990 and put the extra red(+) and green(-) to the battery. Now, after sitting for a week since the last ride (I know, I should ride more) the battery wouldn't start the bike. First time that ever happened. It was down to 11.5V. Seems like something drained it while it sat. It should sit for months and still start the bike. This was only a week. Is there a diode or something that gets bypassed or something when connecting those extra wires to the battery? The seller said to just connect them to the other red and green wires.

Battery is good - less than 2 year old Yuasa.

Thanks,
Glenn

 

Fitting a diode in the red wire I don't think would hurt, be worth a try.

 

If you have a decent multimeter you could do a parasitic draw test to be sure.

I assume you checked charging voltage after install before the last trip?

 

So far, these R/Rs are working fine on both of my Hondas. Are you sure your battery is OK? I know, it's a 2 year old Yuasa. Personal experience with aftermarket Yuasas is they last 10-17 months. The original battery in a bike will last several years, but replacements are much shorter-lived. Whether that's because the best batteries go to Honda and Suzuki because they will reject shipments containing duds, or because dealers usually don't service and set up batteries properly, I can't say. I've had best results buying Walmart's cheapest batteries and doing the setup (adding acid and initial charge) myself. The initial charge should be 24 hours on a charger designed for the job, but most dealers just pour in some acid and throw the battery into the bike.

I will add that I rewired my VFR rather extensively to reduce fusing, grounding, and charging problems. I have the impression that the electrical system was designed by a senior engineer who was expert in camshafts, but had only a passing acquaintance with electricity. Or perhaps a summer intern.

 

Hi guys,

My multi-meter is a basic AC/DC volts and resistance one. It doesn't do amps.

I know the IATB thing, but having a hard time believing it because of the coincidence having just installed the R/R. It never cranked over at any speed other than lightning fast as Honda's do.

I shot before/after videos of the charging - uploading now. When that's done I'll post them. Stator checked OK before installing the new R/R. I will check it again tonight. I noticed when making the videos the old R/R allowed max voltage of 14.5V at just under 2000 RPM and 14.4 at 4000. Idle was 12.9V. With the new R/R idle was 13V after stabilized from start-up, then got to a max of 13.9 at a bit under 2000 RPM and dropped to 13.8V at 4000, then back to idle where it stayed at 13.8V. On the way to 4000 it saw 14.04V just for a second and stayed at 13.8V.

I will check the charging and the stator resistance again tonight.

If it turns out I need a battery, I will then wonder if the R/R damaged it.

Cheers,
Glenn

 

Get yourself a decent AGM battery, lead acid batteries are a thing of the past and the Chinese lead acid are junk

 

stator resistance is a useless measurement IMO. I've had one ohm out in spec but it was still toasted. You want to unplug it from the R/R and measure the VAC output. Should see 50-80 VAC revving engine 5,000 - 7,000 RPM. Voltage should climb with RPM. If you see like 40 or below at a high RPM, your stator is shot. You'll need a fresh charged battery for this test since you'll be running the bike off it.

 

I replaced the batteries at the same time as the R/Rs on my bikes, because the OEM R/Rs failed and ruined the batteries. In the case of the VF750 the case cracked and acid spewed everywhere.

 

Poor bastards, smokes are 7.50 a pack here...

 

I swaped the stator from the old motor and wire harness I found on ebay last year.