New R/R...Still overcharging

Bike is an 87 VFR700 F2

While driving a few weeks ago I started smelling the infamous "rotten eggs". The battery was old and the regulator was putting out 13.1 volts at idle so I went ahead and put in a new battery. No problems until last night I started smelling "rotten eggs" again. Got home and pulled the side cover off to check the battery and it was very hot. The R/R was extremely hot as well. Too hot to touch without burning your fingers. I let it cool down and started it back up. 13.1 volts at idle but increased to 17.4 volts at 2500 rpm. So I figured bad regulator.

Picked up a new regulator today and put it on. Check all the connections and grounds. Cranked up the bike and i'm still seeing over 17 volts above 2500 RPMs.

Anyone got any other ideas for me check. I went through the Electrosport troubleshooting guide completely. I also tried two different multimeters to make sure it wasnt a bad meter. Same results.

I'm at a loss. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

 

Bad replacement? :unsure:

- just a thought - wouldn't be the first time a replacement part was DOA. :rip: :frusty:

 

Look on the box that the replacement came in.....


Does it say "Made in China?"


If yes, take it back and get another one.......



(If your getting 17.4 at rpm that regulator is bad.....battery wont cause overvoltage.)(Stator going bad is undervoltage.)

 

Thanks for the input. Will try another r/r. They'll have to one since this is the only one they had in stock.

 

Check for continuity between the 3 yellow alternator leads as well as consistent resistance to ground( I think the book says ~3 ohms). Check for melted plastic at the rr connections and red fuse connector at the solinoid. Replace any melted connections you find.

Good luck

 

Make sure whatever R/R you are purchasing is MOSFET. Did you try Ricks? Wire my bike?

Check all the connectors and wires.

Consider soldering the stator to the R/R wires.

I also poached this info below from Mello Dude on another thread. I know you've been through some of it, but good info anyway.

These are R/R quick checks---
--- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs.
- Check stator
- 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.
- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks .
- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings
- Repeat hot.
This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart.
ElectroSport - Motorcycle, Dirt Bike and ATV - OEM Quality Stators, Regulator/rectifiers and CDIs


----- If the volts go into the 14s with throttle it may be as simple as your battery is toast. - but if you need an R/R ---link
Roadstercycle-Index

 

The model number stamped on our regulators starts with S as in SH593-12.

The S means shunt design. These are crap units that run hot and fail.

I'm fixing to swap to a F model which means mosfet design. These run cooler and perform much better. If you can afford $50 and can crimp spade lugs onto the wires then that's what I'd recommend.

I've got my eye on a BMW 1000RR unit which should fit in the stock location.