Need some Regulator / Rectifer help.

Need some r/r advice. I am pretty mechanical but not with elecrical systems, so please bear with me.

I went for a ride yesterday, it was very hot and i was riding pretty hard. Brand new battery (old one died? maybe not>is it the r/r)).

Anywho... bike died at a stop light and would not restart, only a few click of the starter, r/r was very, very hot to the touch. Recharged the battery at a gas station and made it home. Put a volt meter on the battery and it showed no increase in volts as I revved the bike. I assume it's not charging?

Here is one of my questions, I tested the r/r according to the service manual and there was no change in the reading on the ohm meter between ANY of the connectors. According to manual it shoud be between .5 and 1.

What is the ohm reading of a bad r/r between connector pins?

I also tested the ohms between yellow wires on the 5 pin plug and each read .7, although the manual stated between 1 and 2, is this something to be worried about?

Lastly I tried to perform the charging test which made no sense- the manual tells you to remove the starter fuse, then to start the bike, how can that be done?

Other than that the r/r looks OK, the wiring is fine, the bike has about 10,000 miles, all connectors are corrosion free.

Any help??

 

it's more than likely your R/R. If you check voltage at idle and its less than 12v and then rev to 5000 rpm and it's less than 14v, more than likely your R/R. Go to wiremybike.com for a replacement

 

Hi I agree withthe previous posts. My R/R was probably toast when I bought the bike. Battery had just been replaced. As per manual I checked the voltage at rest approx 12.4V, at ignition on 12.2V, at idle 12.1V, at 1500rpm 12.0V and at 5000rpm it fell to approx 11.7V. I tested this a few times over a week with slightly different readings (depends on temp and battery charge). I read somewhere not to do it if you have just charged your battery. (let it rest for about 12 hours). I cant remember my other readings for ohms (i wrote them down and have since disposed or it). My regulator and the 3 yellow wire connectors got very hot to touch when the bike was on. On close inspection my connectors were browned as well. I cleaned all my earth wires and replaced R/R and fitted a VFRness. I have had no troubles in 12 months. The R/R and connectors were heaps cooler. The readings normalised as per the manual. ie 13.5V at 1500 rpm and 14.6V at 5000rpm. I learnt alot about it from this site, so I hope this helps.

 

Yes, this all helps thanks, the bike is a 97 with about 10k miles. Sounds like the r/r but want to make sure it's no the stator, can anyone describe the stator test

 

try this thread
Stator Tests - VFR Discussion - Page 3

 

When you do the diode test on your R/R, you're only testing the rectifier part of it. AND, that test is notoriously unreliable. The diode tester range, if you have one on your meter, seems to work better. Often a bad rectifier may fail under heat...so it'll test good. Then there's the regulator function...and I don't know of any way to 'bench test' that...period.

 

I think I'll go for a new r/r, everything seems to be heading that way, thanks for all the help

 

The stator test you request involves testing the resistance between the 3 wires from the stator and connecting over to the R/R. The manual states it should be done at 20 degrees (C) and the motor not warmed up.
1) Remove rear fairing and disconnect the alternator three-pin connector (3 yellow wires).
2) Use the Ohmmeter set to Rx1 and measure resistance between each yellow wire on the alternator side of the connector. The resistance should be between 0.1 - 1.0 ohms. The manual states to Replace stator if it is not in this level.3
3) You can then check for shorts in the coil winding by checking each yellow wire to a clean ground point, like on the right side near the battery. If there is continuity it indicates a short and may need replacing or re-winding.
Hope this helps