Need Electrical help, I heard this website is awesome

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by cainski, Jul 7, 2012.

  1. cainski

    cainski New Member

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    Hello all,

    My name is Alex and i bought my 1998 VFR 800 interceptor almost 5 years ago now. Love that bike and have had little to no problems with it until about 2 years ago. I had driven a bit recklessly since i am 25 now meaning i was pretty young when i bought it.

    I hit a deer on my left side about 2 years ago and i had my side cowls off at the time becasue they were damaged and i was waiting for glue to dry on them so i could re-mount them. I am glad i didnt get hurt but that deer set off a chain reaction from hell.

    I didn't realize that a fan had gotten fowled up when i hit the deer. I could visibly tell the radiatior was bent up but i drove it for a while anyways which was a poor choice. I eventually realized the fan was bent up after i had gotten stranded on the side of the road. I replaced the 10A fuse and bent back the radiator and fan and replaced the battery. The bike ran fine for a while until i got stranded again. This time i identified the rectifier was shot and bought an aftermarket one. The rectifier got really hot and it started melting wires. I think the wires may have gotten a bit melted from the earlier incident with the fan. The wires were melting like crazy and i replaced the rectifir again and a few more batteries. I have rewired the rectifier a few times now and there are no more connectors (2p 3p) just my crappy wiring. The bike still worked and i kept driving it.

    Eventually the bike started to do funky things and electrical components would go nuts. My battery would lose its charge and the headlights have blown twice. My digital meter does not work either. One day i was trying to jump the bike to take a girl for a ride (i would just jump it when i wanted to ride because i didnt want to buy a new battery). The bike wouldnt start and the fuel pump stopped working. Troubelshooting the system i have found that my fuel cut relay does not click and the 20A fuse keeps blowing every time i turn on the ignition. I have no idea why this is happening and the manual is not helping me much.

    I have been nervous to bring my bike to a mechanic becasue i doubt they will fix it ( I feel liek the underlying problems will still be there) If anyone can help me I would be seriously grateful because i am just at a loss and i do NOT want to get rid of this bike.

    Thanks again everyone and ride safe,
    -Alex

    p.s. would be happy to post pictures if it would help
     


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  2. Apittslife

    Apittslife New Member

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    Welcome :yo:

    My personal opinion is for you to find a complete replacement Harness, & any & all electrical components that you feel are questionable.
    There really is no other option at this point again that is my opinion, & others will follow. :biggrin:
    :worthless:
     


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  3. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    Yes this website is awesome--live and learn and pass it on is how i roll...

    When you get older you will learn to never trust a fart, and don't waste a boner.

    You might want to raise your electrical repair standards a bit, it sounds like you are borderline squid level, of course there is no age limit on being a squid.

    +1 on Paul's advice...
     


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  4. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    I believe your regulator and stator are fried causing all kinds of malfunction.DON"T ride your bike like this because you will damage more parts.
    http://vfrworld.com/forums/5th-gene...-stalled-red-light-wouldnt-start-back-up.html
    Read this thread because I don't want to type everything again.Replace regulator with R1 yamaha mosfet and stock stator and rest is on that thread.
    Once you replace regulator (don't replace old style stock unit read the thread I explained there) Stator (make sure you do stator test,continuity voltage output before replacing) New battery you should be good to go.
     


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  5. cainski

    cainski New Member

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    Hey all,

    Thanks for the video Rubo that was cool. I think that the aftermarket regulator rectifier i bought before is not the best because it got so hot. I wish i had gotten the better rectifier initially. I dont think i was direct enough in my previous post.

    I am wondering what would be making the 20A sub fuse blow and not the 30A main fuse. Because the 20A fuse keeps blowing the fuel cut relay wont click on which is making the fuel pump not work. Mind that this means the engine is not running. So I think that the stator and regulator are not to blame for that. I think it is a bad ground because i cant think of any other reason for the fuse to blow. I am going to start unwraping the harness following my wiring diagram to anything connected to the fuse and the relay to try and find a bad ground. I dont have a lot of money right now so a new harness is difficult.

    Also there is another relay that seems to be on the same circuit. The engine stop relay. This one still still clicks. The fuel cut relay wont click because it doesnt have power running to it because the fuse is blown.

    My questions are:
    -Is the fuse blowing because there is a bad ground?
    -Is the fuse blowing because there is damaged wires?
    -Can the Rectifier be to blame for this fuse blowing even though the bike is not running?
    -Is there a specific order that the wires from the stator/rotor need to connect to the regulator rectifier? (When they melted i wired them myself in no specific order)....These are only the wires from the stator/rotor. I know the grounds and posatives need to be in the right order.

    I will post pictures of as soon as i can. I am about 2 hours away from where i am storing the bike now.

    p.s. i will also run tests on my stator and rectifier again. I probobly fried the stator when those wires melted they probobly touched eachother. I read that in ur other post the stator can fry by the yellow wires touching.
     


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  6. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Hi bro
    I am by no means an expert but I kind of have an analytical temperament so I would do these things.
    lots of help and info here
    http://vfrworld.com/forums/5th-gene...how-fix-common-regulator-stator-failures.html


    1.Bench test the rectifier-see the thread
    2.Test Stator-see the thread
    3.Install new battery if your battery does not hold charge.(bought AGM battery sealed free shipping $39.94 real nice battery.Super happy with it.AGM Battery YTZ12S Honda Shadow Interceptor Superhawk CBR1100XX Blackbird VFR800 | eBay)
    4.If regulator is fried and I think it is install Yamaha R1 unit-see the thread/ buy wiring to install direct to battery by-passing the harness.
    5.If stator is fried install OEM stator -see the thread for cheap vender for this or have it custom rewind
    6. After both these taken care of I would follow the harness and make sure nothing is fried and grounds are good.
    7.Install the blown fuses and you should be good to go.
    you are looking around 40 battery 150 regulator wiring another 160 OEM stator. $350
    If you take your bike to dealer I am sure 1500+ parts and labor.
     


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  7. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    There is no specific order for the yellow wires coming out of the stator into the RR.
     


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  8. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    A bad (stuck) fuel pump will blow the 20 amp fuse, and the pump relay does not click ever. Also, if the fan is stuck so that it won't turn, that would likely blow a fuse too.

    Try using the jumper wire on the pump relay plug, but FIRST remove the black plastic cap on the pump, spray a bit of WD-40 down the center, and use pliers to grip and pull up(about 5mm) on the solenoid shaft in the middle a few times.

    If your meter shows some continuity across the pump leads, you may be able to get it going after following the above directions. Infinite reasistance=pump is scrap.

    Be sure to check the wiring harness ground at the right side upper point on the fairing support.

    In cases where wiring is messed up, you might need to install an additional ground wire connecting one of the green wires at the r/r directly to the negative battery post.
     


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  9. fieldsanitation

    fieldsanitation New Member

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    I fought the same thing with the 20amp fuse problem... turns out my aftermarket rectifier was rated at 32amps and I had a 20amp fuse on that charging circuit... so as soon as the draw went over 20amps, the rectifier would send the required voltage and POP, and because they wired the bike the way they did, that freakin thing couldn't run the EFI or the lights or anything else and the bike just sucked that battery dry and DIED on the side of the road.

    I had good wiring connections (which I've now changed so if I blow the charging circuit fuse the bike will still run off the juice out of the rectifier) ... definitely find out what your rectifier is rated at... and change that charging circuit wiring.

    http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanic...ctifier-does-matter-how-you-connect-them.html
     


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