My RC24 resurrection

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Wheezy, Sep 24, 2021.

  1. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Ok, managed to get it out all ok. Will start to rebuild it later this week.
    [​IMG]


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  2. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    I’ve spent the morning tracking down the correct grease and a better set of circlip pliers so should actually have a refurbed clutch lever by the end of today. Not much progress, but some progress.
    [​IMG]

    Lay it out like the diagram!


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  3. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    The good. I now have a working clutch lever.
    The not so good. I still couldn’t bleed the clutch. With a bit of gentle persuasion, I’ve got the slave cylinder body off. It’s all in a really bad state. The piston and seal are welded to the housing, so more soaking in WD40. I don’t have a compressed air supply to get it out so will have to see if I can find one.
    Some of the gasket is still welded to the casing, so more cleaning up required.


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  4. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    Use a grease gun to remove that piston


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  5. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    [​IMG]
    Somebody’s bled the clutch in the past and not wiped up. Paint stripped around the slave cylinder body.


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  6. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    [​IMG]
    This bike is the gift that keeps on giving, and I’ve only just started.

    The clutch pushrod, should I be able to push that manually with my hand? It doesn’t want to budge. Is it just not possible to do by hand or could it be sieges at the clutch end? Sorry if this is another stupid question!

    Thanks for all your help everybody. I’m learning a lot.


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  7. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    [​IMG]
    Thread the nipple into the slave … you only need to thread it in a couple of turns … pump in the grease and it will magically come out.


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  8. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    The clutch rod will take significant effort, best done hydraulically... given the shape stuff is in, I'd recommend pulling the rod out, cleaning it up. Better yet, pull the right side clutch cover off and inspect the clutch itself.
     
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  9. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 New Member

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    I could not actuate my clutch by pushing on it either, that is probably the reasoning behind hydro.
    +1 full pulling rod out and cleaning it up where it engages into the slave. :) My clutch rod was mint on the sealed portion, just nasty on the last 4". That last sentence sounds bad..
     
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  10. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    The replacement seal kit should contain a complete piston assembly so feel free to destroy the old one
     
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  11. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    I did have a little go with a grease gun last night, to try to pump the piston out. Unfortunately I was doing something wrong and managed to cover myself in grease, with very little going in, behind the piston. Will have another look this week and continue soaking in wd40.


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  12. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Ok, the clutch slave piston is well and truly welded in and not going anywhere at the moment. I was getting a bit frustrated so I’ve left it, for the time being. I might try the coke cola trick and see if that helps dissolve the gunk.

    So after feeling a bit despondent, I hooked up a battery to see if the electrics worked on a basic level. It was great to see the ignition light on, all the indicators and horn working!
    [​IMG]
    Let there be light!!

    Took the plugs out. I will buy new ones, but the old ones didn’t look in too bad shape.
    [​IMG]

    So now to the main event: getting the carbs off. I’ve been putting wd40 around the seals for a week, in the hope it might unstick them. Ended up borrowing a crowbar from my dad and after about half an hour of persuading, I finally got the carbs free.

    One of the boots broke as it released, which shows how old and brittle they were.
    [​IMG]
    Give me a lever big enough and I can move the world.

    [​IMG]
    Won’t be using that one again

    [​IMG]
    There’s a lot of deposits on the bottom of the carbs. I hope it’s just a sign of general leakage over the last 20 years. Time to get ordering to refurb this lot. I won’t be doing a full strip as I don’t have the confidence that I’ll get it all back together correctly. I will start cleaning it up next weekend.


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  13. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    It's absolutely crazy not to replace the fuel tube orings at this juncture. I guarantee you will have to do it at some point, probably very soon after getting the carbs back in and running.

    Those orings are 35 years old, been exposed to fuel the whole time, and have had thousands of heat cycles in the V of a hot engine.

    They usually crumble when you try and remove them from the tube.
     
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  14. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 New Member

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    It is worth the patience and time to do all your o-rings. Capt is correct. You made it this far and with this forum we can get you out of any mess. I used a combo of sources including the forum. Any questions can be answered as I found out myself. Take the time, spend a minor amount of money and get all new rubber parts. Check out my post as well (it goes off course here and there, but some good learning going on).

    https://vfrworld.com/threads/the-vfr-that-wasnt-but-now-is.59845/page-3

    https://v4dreams.com/index.html

    Joe at V4dreams will respond to questions quickly and accurately. His online tutorial is pretty good with some patience.

    I was of the same opinion until this forum changed my mind. FYI, once those fuel tube o-rings go, it is not pretty... think fire bottle.
    Using fuel to clean my carbs worked a mint. New fuel lines as well. Clamps possibly. The funniest part of all, was that once the gunk was cleaned off of my carbs they were in really good shape as if the oil kept water out...lol
    GL and we got your back.

    I got parts from FowlersUK, Wemoto and CMSNL.

    Nike-Just do it! lol
     
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  15. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Ok gents. Thanks for the pep talk. I’ll do it.


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  16. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 New Member

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    Once last thing, if I could have done it over, I would have started with the carb cleaning/fuel technique right out of the gate. Gently get all the springs and connecting pieces cleaned before disassembly. It was more difficult once I had opened the bowls, to keep debris out of the interior of the carb. Grab a sharpy and mark everything as well. The v4dreams method of marking and photo taking worked really well. Have a nice clean big table surface to work on, that way you can keep your quadrant parts organized.
    The linkage looks intimidating, but with all the info it started to make sense and I no longer fear the dreaded V4carb.
     
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  17. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Also, to get the carbs properly cleaned and fuel tube o-rings replaced, the actual butterfly linkage does not need to come apart. Just the outer 2 carbs need to come off. So choke linkage, which is very basic with just set screws. And then the synch springs and 2 larger springs in between the carb bodies. It's really not bad. The whole rack does not need to be completely disassembled if you do everything in the correct order.

    I 100% agree with Rogue, get the carbs as clean as possible as a unit before any work or disassembly.

    A clean, dedicated work space that can be left briefly without worry is a must.
     
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  18. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    That’s great guys, thanks for the input. I’m going to get all the o rings,fuel lines and float bowl gaskets from the V4 dreams website. I’ll start the exterior clean at the weekend and take it from there.


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  19. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    as stated, you only need to remove 2 carbs, either left or right, but it helps alot to loosen (but not remove) screws on the remaining carbs so that there is enough wiggling to help get all the many connections lined up for final assembly.

    repair 92vfr 9-21 025.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2022
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  20. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Ok, a couple of emails to Joe at V4 dreams and I’ve got the fuel pipes and o-rings on order, ready to start the refurb.
     
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