My bike creeps when im not moving in first HELP!!

Im new to the motorcycle world and have found myself completely obsessed with riding!!
My ride is an 84 honda vf750.

I have run into 2 problems and i not sure what they are...

First problem,When im not moving, in first gear and clutching my bike creeps foward. It feels like there is no pressure when i pull the lever. I tried bleeding the line and the result is the same. Unless i didnt bleed it properly...Maybe master cylinder needs a rebuild kit??

Second problem, I have trouble finding neutral when im not moving. When i am moving its not as hard but i didnt have this problem before. I tried adjust the foot pedal but i think thats only for the height of the shifter...

I recently changed my oil ,10w40 an its between the bottom and top lines on the stick.

Its only been 2 days and i cant take it anymore im literaly going CRAZY:crazy:!!!!!

Any info would be much appreciated please help!!

 

Could be warped clutch plates, but more likely, as you say, master cylinder probably needs new seals.

Both symptoms show that the clutch is not fully releasing, most likely due to less than full hydraulic pressure.

 

Sounds like you need to flush and bleed the line.

 

I agree with the above responses; but where does the clutch begin to disengage when you're pulling in the lever?

 

Yeah the clutch isn't completely releasing chances are you proly still have air in the system. Sometimes there's an adjustment on the lever as well may check that first make sure its adjusted properly. Tell you what ii do to get the air bubbles out and fresh fluid in. I get a piece of rubber hose and a 8 mm wrench put the wrench on like your bleeding it but don't open it yet then put Ur hose on just needs a very small amount of pressure to open and close it maybe a 1/4 turn at most and don't wrench on her to hard when your tightening her.. I usually use an my pop bottle with a hole drilled in the lid to catch the fluid. Pull the cap off the resevoir level the resivoir on the handle bars up best as possible and top it off with brake fluid. Now just crack that bottom one open a bit and just let the fluid flow and keep topping the res off as it gets low I let it get low the first time to get most the feud out of the res. Then I don't let it get below half after that. Then I just let it run till it turns clear at the bottom while topping the res off. Now here comes the fun lol. Close the bottom pump that bear up a few times and crack the bottom with the other hand while holding the top it should get light on you as soon as the fluid dumps close the bottom pump it up again and do the same I usually do it as fast as I can for about 10 cycles then check and see of she firms up on you. It's a beast once you get a few small air bubbles in there to get it bled properly sometimes as the bubbles wanna keep rushing back up like they do in water Close it up and give her a go. Also remember don't mix brake fluids either as it will cause you to have to rebuild the cylinders because it will swell the help out of the seals and cause them to deteriorate fast. Just cause it has a higher dot number doesn't mean its better its just designed for the hydraulic system it was engineered for. I believe it will tell you on the caps what is required in your system. I know on my tl1000r its dot5 but on my vf1kr and vf1/2kr its dot 4 has to do with what its composed of and the boiling temps a glycol based vs a silicon base somethin like that. Hope I helped a lil and I hope you get to have some fun with the beast. Glhf. Sorry I overwhelmed ya and forgot how to spell resivoir so forgive me lol. Orion owt

 

Bleed your clutch system first. Air gets trapped at the top banjo bolt on the MC. Loosen MC and tilt forward, because in normal position the banjo bolt is above the MC plunger and air will get trapped. Tilting puts the banjo bolt below plunger and no air will get trapped. Plus make sure the little hole in the bottom under the little SS cover thingy is clear and nothing is blocking it (bottom of MC).

If after bleeding and nothing has changed. Then pull the slave cylinder off and see if it is leaking/weeping fluid. You can still get MC/Slave cylinder rebuild kits. Do that, it's easy.

 

Thanks everyone for your input and comments,much appreciated!!!!

Big up to Orion for a detailed bleeding procedure!

When I was bleeding it however, the fluid had absolutely no pressure when it was comming out. Like when I caught the clap and I was tryin to pee...

After I bled the line I tried and she still creeps... MC kit?

 

When I am stationary , in first and the clutch is disengaged( lever pulled in) she creeps. Lever is pulled to the handle

 

What is the banjo bolt and is the slave where the bleeder is?

 

The banjo is the bolt holding the rubber line to the master up top and the slave down the bottom.

Get a pair of pliers and pinch the rubber line up top not to tight but enough that when you pull the lever it is firm. If its not firm crack the slave on the bottom and pinch the line up top and pump up the lever if it starts to resist a lil the hold it and releses the pressure on the pliers let the fluid passed the repinch before you let off the lever pump it up again. Till its firm. then repeat release the pressure again. If it won't build pressure that way then you may have the wrong lever on it a broken lever or the seals in the master are bad one of the three. But if you can't build pressure by pinching the rubber line near the master up top then Houston we have found a problem up top somewhere in the master.

 

I got a little pressure when I pinched the hose up top and same for the the bottom. I have a lot of play in my lever even before this problem started. What do you think of finding an MC from an other bike and swapping it?

 

Is it spongy still or rock solid when you pinch the hose. If its spongy uncork the slave and pull the lever while pinched let it build then release the pliers repinch and repump lever see if it gets harder if it does just keep bleeding it that way till it gets Dern near rock hard pinching it from the top. Prolly just a lil air in there still.

 

I will try this technique again.

Ps awesome van dam clip haha

 

My question is about the other 'end' of the engagement range; but you may have answered already. If there is 'a lot of play' in the clutch lever, it suggests a potential problem with either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder (or both). Cheap enough and easy enough to rebuild both.

 

Funny you write that Ryder ... Thanks to that bleeding technique it doesn't creep any more!!
Thanks Orion !!!

I went around the block and looked under the lever where I believe the piston type thing is and there were squirt marks below the resevoir on the handle so I think I still might need an MC rebuild kit. I think it's the seal that might be ripped

I jut came back from an hour ride and noticed an even bigger problem...In slow speeds the response is good but when I opened up on the highway I was getting delayed responses when accelerating. Could this be my clutch disk?

 

I would atribute that to dirty carbs prolly main jets and emulsion tubes bein durty. If its a lean run b careful could detonate the engine. Throw some cleaner in there like seafoam go run it a lil and let it set for a bit run it and let it set maybe that will help loosen up your mains. If not prolly gonna have to the get the carbs cleaned. Could be a clogged filter or fuel pump not allowing propper fuel flow to. when goin down the highway can u roll off the throttle a few seconds and then hammer on it. If it runs like a raped ape for a few seconds then boggs back down could be the pump and or filter

 

Clogged orifice in the master cylinder--the tiny little hole underneath the shiny plate at the bottom of the reservoir. Based upon your description you really just need to get rebuild kits, clean everything really good and fix it right, then ride that pony till the stirrups are draggin' in the dirt...

 

I can but when I hit it I get a slow response. Hard to describe...

 

Yeah then i would prolly think the mains were clover. Just off the top could be a slide diaphram to hard to say would have to yank the carbs. But b4 I done that though I would inspect the plugs I had a bike years ago that was really touchy and I always had a problem with plugs it was a ole gs750 with mechanical slides if I rode in varying elevations the carbs would run lean or rich depending on elevation if the plugs would carbon up a lil in the upset elevations it wouldn't wanna run above 3 k rpm. Just a thought b4 digging into the carbs. Just a thought to if the airbox isn't intact under the tank say the lids missing it will run really.really lean. Also ck your air filter if its clogged it will cause a really rich condition in upper rpms and will b sluggish.. just alot of possibilities.

 

Wow!! Thanks a lot I really appreciate all your help and knowledge. I will defenity try that carb cleaner and hope for the best! The only other problem I have is my speedometer, it's off by 10 kmh