My '93 resto/project/money pit

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by smack doogle, Jan 21, 2012.

  1. smack doogle

    smack doogle New Member

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    I posted last week when I got my '93 VFR and for those of you who didn't read that post, here's the short and curleys of it.

    I was out riding, saw a '93 in someones front yard that looked as though it hadn't move in a year or 4 so i left a note on the door if the owner wanted to get rid of it. He called me later that day and said yes, for $250 he delivered it. It has a title (salvaged due to crash and body work damage) and the owner said it stopped running and his mechanic said it's the CDI box. For the price I didn't ask many questions. It had paperwork, keys and wasn't in to bad of shape considering the left side damage (only the fairing, everything else was fine w/ no rash or anything) and I figured if it turned out to be trash I could part it out and make double my money in a day.

    So I got it home and started wiping it down and checking stuff out. Very dirty but not bad. Threw in a battery and it had power. Lights were on but the engine wouldn't turn over. I checked the fuses and low and behold, one was out. Replaced it and she turned over. Wooo Hooooo!!!!!!!! That's a start. After that i started taking apart bodywork and decided to start making my list of what she'll need. I also flushed the brakes and clutch. Figured I'd get that out of the way since it's a quick job anyway. Here's what she looked like when I got it home and after the first day of tinkering.

    My plans aren't anything exciting. I'm going to get it running, fix up the body work (try to do some plastic welding) and get it looking close to new. The goal here is price. I spent $250 on it and I plan to get her up and on the road for a total of $1500. lets see if it can be done. As i update this thread I'll post the cost of the project as it moves along.
     

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  2. smack doogle

    smack doogle New Member

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    This was how far I got taking it apart the first night I had it. Dirt was everywhere along with spiders and all kinds of pine needles, etc. The air box was suprisingly clean though.

    There was gas left in the tank so I assumed the carbs were left with fuel also. The tank is original and the keys are with the bike but the damn key won't open the tank. Any suggestions on this one? It won't open for the life of me. I've tried PB blaster, Pressing and turning, Turning and lifting, etc. It won't open and I don't want to ruin the cap just to get it open. Thankfully the fluid in the gas tank (formerly known as gas) flows well from the petcock so hopefully rust inside the tank has been kept to a minimum.
     

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  3. smack doogle

    smack doogle New Member

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    Today was the first day I've been able to mess with the bike since I got it on Monday so it's been sitting in the garage all week just waiting. Today, I wanted to pull the carbs and see what I was up against. If I had time I wanted to pull the forks (they'll need seals, springs and oil), put new rubber on the tires and put in new brake pads and do some general cleaning. Since I had all day it shouldn't be a problem.

    I took the front fairing off and decided, hmmm. Wonder if I can get it to run for a second. Checked to make sure there was oil in it and I was good there. So I sprayed some starer fluid into the carbs and started her up. She ran for about 5 seconds so I'm thinking the owner was full of s#$t with the CDI box story. That's fine, saves me money.

    So, I started on pulling the carbs. I have practice from my VF1000R so I had these off in about 45 minutes. They were a pain though and took some "delicate muscle".

    I had a good clean work area on the bench so I started tearing into the carbs. Wow!!!! Talk about nasty. I had no idea gas turned into tar after a few years. This tar like stuff actually wasn't to bad though. Nothing was seized, just stained and gunked up. No passages were clear so the only option was to let everything soak. I had carb cleaner and the effect it has on my brain cells so I went with Simple Green. I pulled all the jets and everything and left the 4 bodies on the plate and just let them sit in Simple Green. About 2 hours and then I'd flip it and use a turkey baster to force simple green into all the passages.

    While the carbs soaked I pulled the wheels off and dropped them off at the dealership with the Conti-Motions I had ordered (i used these on my ole Speed Triple and was happy with performance and the price is great, $170).

    I also pulled the forks. I really want to ship them out to Jamie Daugherty but i don't think my budget will allow his treatment. I may have to do the springs, seals and fluid myself. I have to crunch some more numbers before I decide.

    Went to work on the brake pads. First caliper was fast and easy. Second caliper damn cap for the pad pin is stripped. I'll have to drill that out.

    After about 5 hours of soaking and scrubing and turkey basting the carbs were clear and nice.

    So far my total is at about $750 but that includes the rear stand, spark plugs, tires/mounting/oil filter, etc., etc. The only big items left is the fairing, forks and whatever else I'm forgetting.

    If anyone has any ideas on the gas cap issue (won't open) let me know.

    Tomorrow I plan to put the carbs back together and see if I can make fire. I'll also be working on the damn stipped bolt in the caliper and applying di-electric grease to every electrical connector I can find. Who knows what else I'll be doing but I'll post it when I do.
     
  4. smack doogle

    smack doogle New Member

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    Here's how she sits now.
     

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  5. smack doogle

    smack doogle New Member

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    Clean Carbs!!! (i think)
     

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  6. Pops

    Pops New Member

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    Carbs are lookin' good! I'm tearing into mine right now too. Funny, I have the same challenge with my gas cap, key doesn't seem to go in all the way and it won't turn the lock. I'm gonna take the tank to a locksmith, then probably swap the cap out once he gets it open for me.
     
  7. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    stupid question..... did you try flipping the key around? also try only sticking half the key in it... also is it a manufactures key or a store bought one?
     
  8. smack doogle

    smack doogle New Member

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    Yep, Yep and yep. I've flipped the key around, pressed the cap with all my might while trying to turn it. Tried half the key in. Used the manufacturers key and the copies I've had made and nothing. I'm thinking I'll be seeing the locksmith also but I really don't want to do that yet.
     
  9. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    try taking an orbital sander without sandpaper and put it on the cap and let it vibrate it a bit see if that gets it loose
     
  10. safetypro10

    safetypro10 New Member

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    Don't forget to clean the fuel pump and filter, too.

    Larry
     
  11. smack doogle

    smack doogle New Member

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    Put the carbs back on this morning. They went on relatively easy. Much easier to get them back on than taking them off. Everything is hooked up so I figured I'd hook up my ketchup tank (aux. fuel tank is an old ketchup bottle) and see if she'd start. I bypassed the pump and filter since I haven't cleaned them and I want to re-do the lines so I ran the aux. tank right to the carbs. No fire. She sounds like she's catching but just wont catch long enough to keep running. The battery wasn't fully charged so I'm charging it now and will give it another try today. Fingers are crossed. Other than that all I did was cut off the old chain and boxed up the forks for Jamie D. to do his magic.
     
  12. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    sounds good! I by-passed my fuel filter and introduced BG treatement directly into the rail of my gen 3 bike. I ended up pulling the carburetors and doing a proper service instead of trying to do a shoe-maker job. Mind you, the quick and dirty would have been ok for a customer :evil: :smile:

    I replaced my fuel pump with a new one from Honda, there are a few people that had decent results with aftermarket ones too. Anyway, I should buy a new gold chain and sprockets for the bike, maybe 10,000 more miles though on my final drive set up. Cheers, you got a great deal on that bike, I might have had a duel to the death for it :tounge:
     
  13. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    you know they do make pick-kits for locks. I used my friends matco one for a rebel 450 gas tank I picked up. I was able to open it in five minutes using their picks!
     
  14. smack doogle

    smack doogle New Member

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    That's really good to know. The thing is, I don't know if the lock just stuck from sitting for years or if it's a key issue.
     
  15. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    I am going to come right out and say it - you didn't clean the carbs thoroughly enough using Simple Green and a turkey baster. In my experience, there is only three things required to get your carbs spotless - 1.) compressed air, 2.) carburetor cleaner, and 3.) thoroughness. Methinks you are going to have to remove them and start again.

    I am also going to suggest that you spray a liberal amount of PB Blaster or a similar penetrating oil into the lock cylinder on the tank. I think it's highly unlikely that the ignition key and tank lock are different. Give it a day or so to do it's job, and I think the lock cylinder will be moving in no time.
     
  16. smack doogle

    smack doogle New Member

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    Sir, I couldn't agree more on both accounts! I had planned on having to pull the carbs again for one reason or another. Either them still being dirty or float hieght or whatever. It's always something. No biggie though. This is a project and if I'm not having fun then it's not worth doing.

    I have sprayed some PB in the tank lock and no love but I'll shoot some more in there and see what happens. It can't hurt. Thanks for the suggestions.
     
  17. MiddleTBabb

    MiddleTBabb New Member

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    I got ten bucks says you get it in proper working order for less than $1200. The 86 VFR700 I found was much the same and it was bout a $600 bike in the end. Sweet find you got there sir. The great white knight!
     
  18. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    its a pain in dah arse to be pullin carbs on anything more than once. Do the job right the first time and you wont have to re-do it. Now carburetor synchronization we havent even scratched dah surface yet! Wait till you burn your little fingers and have to use a mirror to see dem adjusters! You will love Honda Engineers!
     
  19. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    i hope i got to you in time, stay away from dielectric grease, see if you can find some oxyblock.
    also, dont know if your budget allows, try and get a left exit or high mount on there asap!!! :D
     
  20. smack doogle

    smack doogle New Member

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    I never heard of oxyblock. What's wrong with the di-electric? I haven't started using it yet. My plan for the exhaust is to have a custom mid-pipe made for a high mount. No idea what can I'll use yet though. That's one of the later/ending jobs for this bike. I could get it running and road ready for about $800 but the bodywork, exhaust and all the little nice stuff costs money and I want it to be right........Right for me I should say.

    Forks have been shipped to Jamie D. I decided to send them to him so they are done right the first time.
     
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