Master Link Rivet - any tips?

I am replacing my sprockets and chain this weekend. I am a decent/ basic mechanic but I have never messed with the chain before other than to clean it.

Any tips on using the rivet tool?

I have watched some Youtube vids...



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which chain and which tool?

I know for my current chain I had to go to dealership because they had the Regina tool that I don't have. Cost me 1/2 hour of labor (2 guys for 15 mins). Service dept collectively all groaned when I came in with my regina link in hand ...I put the chain on with a clip style just to get to the dealership, but wanted the rivit type to be extra safe.... I guess they are a PITA and require 2 people . They did say the brand is great tho and will last forever


Ive done 100s of bicycle chains (was a bicycle mechanic) and the trick is to line it up and try to make sure there is minimal lateral force so you dont wallow out the plates or mess up the pin / tool. Make sure the tool pin is dead center on the chain pin and go slowly. Some chains come with spacers for the master link that you then remove, supposed to keep you from over tightening the plate and pinching the adjoining links.

 

The HSM lists the dimensions for the head of the rivet after riveting. It's not difficult, just take your time and measure frequently. If you go too far you could over swell the head of the rivet and cause cracks or a tight spot on the chain.

I've never done a Regina so I can't say what the difficulty could be.

 

I typically measure the chain in 4 or 5 places with a micrometer to determine the outside to outside distance of the factory assembled link plates, get an average distance, and press the link to that dimension. Also use the little packet of grease and lube everything up real good before assembling the link. It's a pretty straightforward process.

 

Good topic. I have my new chain and sprocket for the red scooter sitting there to install but I'm a bit shy on the riveting part.
Mine is an rk chain and I have the rk riveter.
I am thinking of doing it off the bike to make it easier and drop the swing arm to check/replace bearings and put the new Bitubo Shock on at the same time.

 

I over thought it too. Bought one of these, easy peasy. I will say it's easier to just grind a link off, takes a few seconds .. and use this kit to press the new chain on.
http://www.cyclegear.com/STOCKTON-TOOL-COMPANY-Chain-Breaker-and-Rivet-Tool-Kit

 

Doing a ML off the bike can usually be done, but you have to remove your left foot controls I believe to route the chain, will obviously ave to remove the clutch slave/cover, will then have to adjust to max slack to get over sprockets, then re adjust... I started removing my whole old chain (unbroken) and after 5 minutes I grabbed my dremel and cut it in half :beguiled: . It's really not a bad process to do on the bike, no real advantage off the bike to me.

 

YUP and listen to FJ12. To clarify, you are measuring the "mushroom-ed" pin head. Essentially how smashed you've made it. They should list this spec somewhere, it's important it gets the correct amount of pressure to secure but not pinch excessively. Use a caliper and check pin diameter. Do be careful. A chain departing the bike at speed can be catastrophic. Best case you're stranded, you can guess the worst...

 

Do not attempt to push any of the pins from the old chain through without grinding the head off first or you will likely break the shaft on your rivet tool!!! This is the best method to remove the old chain if you are not replacing your sprockets since you can temporarily link the new chain to the open end of the old one and then just use the old chain to pull the new one over the front sprocket. Since you are going to be changing your sprockets it's easiest to cut the old chain off using bolt cutters, a dremel, or angle grinder instead. Also don't forget to use your spanner wrench to adjust the wheel eccentric to move the rear wheel forward before putting the new chain on so that you have space to adjust it in the opposite direction in the future.

 

Some great tips above!

Grind the head off the old rivets before you attempt to push them out (or just chop through the chain with an angle grinder).
Connect the old and new chains together (I used cable ties) and pull the new one around the countershaft sprocket.
Use lots of grease.
Don't forget to put the o-rings in place before putting on the outer plate
Press the side plates on to match the rest of the chain or so the pins project by 1.2-1.4mm.
Use the anvil head to mushroom the pins to the spec in the manual. Use a caliper to confirm the correct diameter after flaring (5.55-5.85mm).

I would also take the time to pull off the clutch slave and sprocket cover and have a good clean out; there's some nasty gunge that hides in there.

 

Amen to that! Do not try to push that rivet out without first grinding the head off. It's pretty easy with a drill motor and a small grinding wheel.

 

I got my old chain off with bolt cutters. I have my new sprockets on but I had some tech difficulties with the new chain and the master link.... Basically, I am a dumbass/ not paying attention and broke the new chain and the tool

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DOH! watch some youtube videos before the next attempt

 

I was watching YouTube when it happened. Dude was showing a pic of a guy that chopped 4 finger tips off. Lesson learned

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It's a good idea to order an extra master link when replacing a chain. Just in case. When I did the chain on the Suzuki I got it perfect first time. When it came time for the VFR I got it too tight. Not once but twice.

 

Just as a point of interest. If you have a professional/heavy duty chain breaker you don't need to grind of the rivet heads, it will push them right through the links. I've got one and it works the champ, but it's a super heavy duty commercial/factory application type chain breaker.

However I have the Motion Pro chain tool, and do not, repeat do not, try that with it. Instant breaky breaky.

 

We always called those extra pieces "Droppers", one to replace when you drop the one you have and can't find it.

 

I managed to get the removal pin jammed in the old chain, and bend the tool frame at the same time. I did not follow the instruction which said to only use the small spanner included, and used a breaker bar to apply some REAL torque!

Uttered some 'garage words', then cut the old chain off with my trusty angle grinder. Getting the pin out was a giant PITA as no amount of hammering back or prising would get it out. Used the trusty angle grinder (again) to cut the offending link away from the pin. After that I decided the pin was trashed (it bent somehow) so I bought a replacement and have since used the chain tool on my VTR without problems. But these tools are not idiot proof, as I have definitively proven.

 

Done. Back on the road

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I am a fan of the clip style link. They are easier than rivets and I have never had an issue with my chains. Racers have used clip style links a lot of times and I haven't seen a chain break. Just food for thought the next time you replace your chain.