Making progress on VF500 F project but need ignition wizardry.

Hi Gents,
I'm still making progress on the VF500F "get it running" project. The starter circuit is working reliably now thanks to help from forum members and compression testing revealed readings of 130 145 120 and 125 which should be adequate to run and may well improve some after use and ring unsticking measures. The bike has not been started in about 1.5 to 2 years, but all the plugs looked like they were firing fine when I pulled them, so I'm fairly optimistic about the general internal engine condition. I'm not looking to restore it, just get it working well enough to ride the local country roads a bit and to do it as cheaply as possible.
So, the issue now is that I'm not getting a spark on the front two cylinders. The first thing I did was check the coils. Both were in FSM spec on the primary side but both, including the working one, showed as open when I checked the secondary side. When I switched the primary side leads on the coils, the previously non-working coil gave a decent blue spark.
Question #1: Does this indicate that both coils are somewhat functional despite testing bad, or something else? I'm pretty sure it isn't my meter since it is a good one and showed all the plug wires to be in spec.
Next, given the evidence ( good burning plugs) that suggested it was running when parked, I thoroughly cleaned and De-Oxited (brand name) the connectors from the pulse generator, but got no change.
Next, I checked the leads from the pulse generator. The FSM spec is 315-375 ohms, but I got 4 kilo-ohms on the leads that will generate a spark out of either coil and 8 kilo-ohms on the leads that don't trigger a spark. I'm scratching my head though, since both are so far out of spec by my measurements I'm wondering if I'm missing something, since one does trigger a spark.
My low budget approach and hopes to avoid pulling off the side cover lead to Question #2: What the heck do I need to do next to figure out what is going on? I really don't want to buy an E Bay pulse generators if I don't need to.
I'm not a very methodical guy, but now that I know I've got compression, I'd like to have spark on all cylinders before I move on to the dreaded carburetor removal and de-gumming.
Off topic, but speaking of carb removal, I've heard that soaking the rubber carb to head boots in oil of wintergreen makes them pliable without degrading them. Any experience on this one, or should I post it as a seperate thread?
As usual, thanks in advance for any and all helpful ideas.
Jay

 

Update: I was checking the wrong leads for the pulse generators and correct testing shows them to be within spec. That suggests the problem is with the CDI box, but since the bike was running when parked I'll bet there is something obvious I'm missing.
Also, where do I find info on how to attach photos of my barn find "beauty"?
Thanks!
Jay

 

Update: I now know how to post photos and some are up for anyone who is interested in how rough the bike is.

 

Update: I was checking the coils secondary circuit incorrectly! The FSM has a picture showing the VOM leads touching one primary lead and one of the two secondary leads with the caption saying " the resistance of the secondary circuit should be 14.4 k ohms." Well the correct way to measure the secondary circuit is to check the resistance between the high output leads the plug wires are inserted into. When I did this, both coils checked fine, so I bought both CDI ignition modules on E Bay for $61.00, installed the A unit which was the one leading to the non-working coil and, viola, a nice hot spark to all 4 cylinders. Thanks to Zen Biker who in another post told me that a bad CDI box could cause just one coil to not fire. It is still a mystery to me as to why an ignition module would go bad on a bike that was running fine when stored but I'll not worry about it too much. Now, on to removing and cleaning the carbs.