Making my own frame sliders

Well I decided I couldn't justify spending $70+ on sliders for my 04 and still havinig to drill holes in the fairings. So I firgured I would make my own. I bought a 12" long, 2" dia. stock of delrin, material used to make most sliders. Then a 12" all-thread bolt for the frame mounting points. So far, I'm into these parts for $20. I made the sliders on a lathe, drilled and tapped them for the bolt to the frame. I still have to modify the coolant bottle and drill holes in the fairings. Here are a couple pics of the sliders, ready for install. I will post more pics next week when I finish the project.

 

Lookin' good!!!!!
This is a project I'd like to take on myself too.
Where did you locate this "delrin" you speak of?????

 

If you want them a different color Delrin dyes pretty well. I used to use Rit dye to dye Delrin parts for R/C cars all the time. I'd try it on a piece of scrap first to make sure it will do what you want though since it sometimes depends on the size of the part as to how well the color will absorb.

 

Well the delrin I got off of Amazon.com, and they had white or black. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_g...+Rod,+White+Color,+2"+Diameter+12"L&x=16&y=16
I wanted the white. I may be repainting the bike this winter, and the front fairings will be white. So I wanted a color that would blend in. But good to know you could die it if wanted.

 

I used a laser level to mark out the spots for the frame sliders on my G/F's 600 CBR

1.remove farings,& make SURE bike is plumb, I used a torpedo level on the rotor
2.set up laser across room,
3. set laser to point at bolt your using for sliders,
4. install fairing ,
5.mark faring

repeat other side


my holes were perfect!!

 

Good to know, had read about using a laser to use as a marking point. I'll remember to check the rotor, to plumb the bike and get everything straight. I'll be doing it in the next few days.

 

Mc AGiver 2

Hondawolf, Good job on the mod. Keep us posted. Mr. Mc Agiver

 

Well finally got everything almost done. Put the sleeve in the coolant bottle last night and have the sliders mounted to the bike. I'll be installing the bottle tonight after the epoxy dries. Looks like I'm into everything for about $45. Could've saved a few bucks if I used bolts, instead of all-thread in the frame mounts. But this way, the slider just threads on, you could even grab it and thread it off from outside the bike if needed. Might be making them a little shorter too, stick out about 2.5". Will post some pics this afternoon.

 

You are the man

Don't you have anything else to do like a job?:unsure:

You are :thumbsup:

 

Sure, I work 40 hrs/week doing computer drafting for an Irrigation Co. Then I mess around in the evenings at home on the bike. Most of the time I'll do bigger projects on the weekends, but an hour here/ there adds up.

 

Well, I now have more pictures. I finished the bike after work and took it for a spin. No leaks from the coolant bottle and it was a 100 degrees today. Looks like I'm good to go. I used a 2.25" dia. pvc pipe for the sleeve. Then plastic epoxy to glue it in place. Let set up for almost 24 hours before re-installing for use.


As stated before, I used a 5" long piece of all thread (10mmx1.25) and a nut to lock it in place. It's threaded in 2.5", same as the stock bolts were. Then the remaining 2.5" threaded into the slider. The sliders are 6" long, I'm thinking of trimming them down an 1", seem a little too long. The slider is drilled and tap to thread onto the stud. Gives a cleaner look from the outside and doesn't require any tools to iinstall/remove. $45 and 5 hours of my time into the project, can't complain.

 

Nice job

It does look little long, 1" trim will do the job:strong: So what is your next project?:unsure::unsure:

 

Next project would be wiring up an electrical adapter from California Sport touring in the steering stem. Then maybe a Centech AP-1 fuse panel for the outlet and already installed heated grips. New Customized Motorcycle Fuse Panel From Centech http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/cycles/ap1.shtml After that paint for the bike.

 

Great job, looks like a factory produced part!

How much of a difference is there between the delrin and teflon? We have scrap pieces of teflon stock laying around all over the place down here and it seems pretty sturdy. I was really wanting to avoid the coolant bottle mod, but it looks like there is no other way. Anyway, great job all around!

Vs

 

Go with the AP-2...it is switched, get the wiring harness custom made by Eastern Beaver to your specs for the perfect setup.

 

NorcalBoy, Eastern Beaver does not carry the Ap-2 anymore. I already have the Ap-1 but did order the relay kit, so it's switch "on" by the ignition. I already have my heated grips wired that way. But thanks for the info.

 

Did you check the grade on the bolt you used for the sliders.. If not grade 8 or above I would suspect it would bend with a good hit.. Possibley damaging the threads into the engine mount bolt hole..

 

I did check the grade. It is a grade 8 and should hold up if ever needed.

 

Hey Peterbuilt dude. Haven't see you in these parts before. Welcome to the dark side.
I do recognize you from the other half of the VFR world.