Losing power on and off!...Help!!!!

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by freewheelburner, Aug 1, 2006.

  1. freewheelburner

    freewheelburner New Member

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    I just can't figure it out. I am losing power intermitantly and bike wont start. I pop start it and run it then it starts fine for an undetermined amount of time then no power again.. This truly sucks as I am to leave for Mid Ohio on Thursday...last week my wife left me , now my bike is lettign me down...what's next..anyone who can help?
     


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  2. elizilla

    elizilla New Member

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    Bad battery? Bad regulator? Your post doesn't have enough information to diagnose the problem here.

    There's a nifty fault finding chart at
    http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_fault_finding.html

    It works pretty well for troubleshooting this type of issue. Why not download it and work through it, and find the problem that way?
     


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  3. freewheelburner

    freewheelburner New Member

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    thanks It only looses power when I hit the start button. It seems like a connection problem but I can't find any sign of a bad connection. I have the rectifyer mod installed and if it were the regulator would'nt it fry my battery? From too much power and if it were a rectifyer/regulator problem would it still pop start?
     


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  4. elizilla

    elizilla New Member

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    It depends on the type of regulator failure. If one of the diodes goes, the bike might still run, and bump start, but fail to charge the battery.

    What do you mean by it loses power when you hit the start button? Does it crank too slowly to catch, or do you just get nothing at all? Could you have a problem with the engine stop switch?
     


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  5. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Well-Known Member

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    freewheel, a little more clarification on the looses power issue would be helpful. LIke elizilla said, it could be an intermittent problem with the rectifier. But more clarification is needed because it could be anything from a loose ground to a faulty switch to a faulty r/r.
     


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  6. freewheelburner

    freewheelburner New Member

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    When I say it looses power I mean just that. I turn on the key and have lights and all power then I hit the start button and loose all power won't turn over but if I get it running by bumping it , it act like it never happened ...until next time which is usually 4 days later. Last nite I put it on the tender and it charged for quite a while so I'm guessing that something is drawing the batery down or it is not charging properly. Maybe the fan on the R/R is not working all the time. I know that there has been issues with this unit on these models.
     


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  7. elizilla

    elizilla New Member

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    I keep asking you to describe what you mean by "loose power", because this is not a very specific description of the problem. Do you mean that when you turn the key on, the lights light up, but when you hit the start button they turn off?

    A lot of bikes, when you hit the start button it turns off the light while you crank. I'm new here and don't actually have a VFR yet, so I don't know if VFRs do this. But that part may be normal. When you release the start button do the lights come back on?

    Many bikes have one or more safety switches that prevent you from starting the bike if it is in gear, or if the clutch is not pulled in, or if the sidestand is down, or some combination of these. There could be a fault in one of these switches, that prevents the bike from starting, but still allows you to bump start it. I don't know which, if any, of these safety switches the VFR might have.

    Or it could be a larger problem. I'm just trying to help you rule out simple and cheap things before you run out and buy hundreds of dollars worth of unecessary parts.

    Have you looked at the fault finding chart I posted earlier in the thread?
     


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  8. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Well-Known Member

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    Ok. Some simple things: Make sure all connections are tight and clean. Then get a digital multimeter. Since you charged the battery, check to make sure it has 12 volts (+ test lead, usually red, to + battery post, - test lead, usually black, to - battery post). If not, charge battery over night and retest. If it still does not have 12 volts, replace battery with a new fully charged one. If 12 volts is present, turn key on, make sure ike is in neutral, press the start button. If the starter does not turn, pull in the clutch and try again. if it does not turn, the switch on the clutch may be faulty. If the engine turns, than check the sidestand switch as it may be faulty. Since you can bump start it, provided that the previous steps yield no results, start the bike, take your trusy meter, put the leads onthe corresponding posts. Meter should erad about 12 volts. Rev engine to about 5000 RPM. Meter should read about 12 - 15 volts. If this reading is low, repalce the R/R. Also check wiring for burns/chaffing.
     


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  9. dopes

    dopes New Member

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    Vman I have almost the same problem. I have a VF1000R and when I turn the key all the lights come on headlight is strong. When I hit the start buttom I get a click sound and the front headlight dims to the point that it is off when I let off on the start button all the lights come back on. but the oil light and neutral light are on. I checked all the wiring and all connections are good. I tried pullin the clutch in and starting the bike nothing, battery has over 12v If I bump start the bike it will start, but when I shut it down and try to restart I get the same click sound. I am wondering if the starter is bad or maybe the clutch safety switch. Do you have any advice.
     


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  10. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Well-Known Member

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    Have you checked the starter relay and the connectors to it, dopes?
     


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  11. dopes

    dopes New Member

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    start problem

    I will be checking that tomorrow. when I bought the bike the guy told me that it may need a new batt. so I am trying that first. I did check all the connections and they are fine. I think that the batt might not have enough amps to crank the starter.
     


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  12. dopes

    dopes New Member

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    Well Vman guess what I finally got it fixed. First I replaced the Battery, it needed to be replaced anyway. then I replaced the switch assembly $115.00. Still nothing. Well I decided to check out the starter. I pulled it out hooked up a tender to the pos lead and then the neg to a ground on the casing. and got noting till I spun the shaft with my finger. So I opened it up, there were so many metal filings in side and the brushes were dirty. so I cleaned it up and tried it again on the bench. It took 5 tries of opening and cleaning till it finally worked correctly. all in all I spent a total for $160.00 and I back to riding.
     


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  13. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Well-Known Member

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    glad you got it fixed, dopes. Sometimes it's trial and error finding a problem an you just hope it doesn't get expensive in the process. That's why you always wanna check the simple stuff like grounds, connections, and things first. :smile: Enjoy all your rides!!
     


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  14. freewheelburner

    freewheelburner New Member

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    Vman,
    Well I finally found the problem after breaking down 100 miles into my trio to Ohio. The R/R was bad. It did'nt show any of the typical signs, plus I have the fan mod so I was looking elsewhere but alas, she left me stranded. Luckily I was 4 miles from a Honda shop. Gave them a call, came and got me at 6:30 PM, ordered a part from Cali., and had me on the road again by 11:00 the next morning. Great service from Southern Tier Honda, Montour Falls, NY. So I missed Friday in Alleghenny Forest but got to Ohio Friday nite at 7:30..hauled ass to get there. Had a great time and no more problems. Thanks for your imput.

    FWB
     


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  15. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to hear you got left stranded, but glad to hear the problem is solved. Kudos to the Honda dealer for getting you and going quickly :first:. It's great to hear you enjoyed at least part of the trip. :smile:
     


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