engine on my 85' vf500f is idleing too high. 3thousand rpms everytime i stop. after a while she will get really hot and i gotta stop to cool her off. any ideas???!!!???
I suspect the motor is similar to the Magna V30 I had. That bike had some serious idling issues. Eventually I took the carbs in for an ultrasonic cleaning and new rubber boots, but still had some high idle problems. Somewhere there was an air leak that I never did find, and I sold the bike before digging further. You can certainly adjust the idle speed on the carbs, but it might stall out easier at stoplights.
Make sure you check that your choke is working proberly. Also check your throtle just to be safe for starters.
With the choke disengage, see if you can push down on the brass choke valves at all. If you can, either the cable is too tight or the brass valves need cleaning (0000 steel wool and WD-40) You could have a really bad carb sync. When was the last time it was synced? A carb sync usually is done anytime the carbs are removed. Test for an air leak by spraying WD-40 around the carb boots. If the idle changes, then you have an air leak.
last time they were synced i have NOOOOOOOO clue lol i bought the bike off a guy and he never mentioned anything about it. i am going to have the work done soon however since winter is slowly approaching and there is only about 3 months left of riding. i'll check the choke however.
oh since its been the down season i have been working on my bike and finally figured it out. my main problem what i was losing coolant due to faulty water o ring gasket seals. so i fixed that and i aslo had a small oil leak so i fixed that and added a Hi performance oil kit. definately a nice addition. now i just have some rewiring to fix and put my new X-Ring Gold Plated Chain on. another nice touch. Pics Coming Soon i cant wait till it warms up i hate indiana weather!!!
Ha! I have an '85 VF500F that is having the same problem at the same RPM. It idles at 3k. It will SOMETIMES drop back down to 1.3k at random though. http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/12669-idle-weirdness-my-85-vf500.html I have a replacement air filter on order and I'm going to sync the carbs after I get that on there. You said the problem was faulty O-ring ring seals? Think you can give me a run down on how to check those out (I'm new to bikes) and how you got a hold of those parts?
well honestly its really simple. the waterpump doesnt have "gaskets" on it they have these little rubber O-rings instead. one small one in the back and one big one in the front. its hard to tell which is bad so its better to replace both of them.... the rear one is about 2 dollars and the front one was around 5 bucks. if you want to do it yourself its not that simple but basic. first drain the cooling system completely!!! then remove the clutch slave cylinder. remove the bolt securing the gearshift arm to the gearshift spindle and remove the gearshift arm. Move the gearshift arm down and out of the way. Next remove the bolts securing the drive sprocket cover and remove the cover. Place a suitable size jack witha pice of wood to protect your crankcase under the engine. Apply a SMALL AMOUNT of jack pressure up on the engine. remove the front lower through-bolt securing the engine subframe. DONT LOSE THE SPACER ON THE LOVER TRHOUGH-BOLT. (a small little metal sleeve the bolt goes throught). Next remove the allen bolts securing the removable subframe and remove the subframe. Then remove the bolts securing the metal coolant pipe (going to the radiator lower hose) to the crankcase. Next loosen the clamping screw on the hose clamp securing the outer short section of coolant hose going to the water pump cover. Move the band back off of the fitting on the water pump cover. Then remove the bolts securing the water pump cover. Pull the water pump cover off of the short section of coolant hose and romve the cover. Don't lose the locating dowel. Remove the bolt securing the inner metal coolant pipe (going to the top end of the cylinder block) to the crankcase. Pinch the hose clamp on the short section of the hose that is attached to teh water pump body. Move the clamp back off of the water pump body. Then withdraw the water pump from the crankcase. Twist the hose slightly to loosen it if stuck. Now just look at the rubber ring in the back and the front. and replace them with the new ones!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that is word for word from the CLYMER Service Manual I bought. It was 30 bucks and well worth it. But that is exactly word for word and what i did to get the job done. if you want me to send you the installation section or any other section of the manual i might be able to either xerox it or just type it out for you! but as for the parts you should be able to purchase these rings at ANY local honda dealership. I just went in and asked them. they had one ring in stock but the other i had to order. they are cheap and if you dont wanna do the work yourself then you will have to pay for the hourly labor rate at your shop. but if you have time and like to get your hand dirty this is a fun little job that will keep you busy for a few hours! once your done and reinstall everything fill with fresh coolant and bam your done. with yoru new air filter. you should remove your snorkel that lil thing on top of the box you dont really need it and it really made a difference for me. just for future reference. but anyways i am doing a lot of different mods if you ever need help or advice on your bike since we have the same thing. just lemme know. later veryfunride.
Wowow! Thanks for transcribing the Clymer manual for me. Perhaps I should have mentioned I own the Clymer Service manaul. "Clymer Hodna 500cc V-Fours - 1984-1985/ Service Repair Maintenance" Got a page number? :wink: EDIT: Though, I don't understand why a bad O-ring for the water pump would cause weird idle. Could you please explain that for me?
Chapter 8 cooling systems!!! page 215... make sure you are looking at the interceptor model not the magna that is describe on page 214. you will also have to jump chapter to chapter on how to drain the cooling system and how to remove the clutch clave cyliner. but its really not as bad or complicated as it seems. just as long as you take your time and dont rush things. and make sure you have all your tools needed close by.
