I made my own triangles to adjust the ride height

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by JimHanus, Nov 6, 2015.

  1. JimHanus

    JimHanus New Member

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    Don't know if this has been done before. Most people seem to want to lower the bike by flipping the triangles, or raise the ride height by shimming the top shock mount. I needed to raise the rear ride height but thought changing the triangles would be easier (already lowered the front some). I bought some 3/16" sheet aluminum on ebay for $2.00 and had a friend with a bandsaw cut me out some new triangles that were slightly smaller (the holes were going to be closer together). The rear bolt rises and falls with the movement of the swingarm, transferring the movement to the shock through the triangle. I kept the top front and bottom bolt holes in the same position. Then I lowered the rear tire until it was about 1/2" from the ground while on the rear stand with the old triangles removed. I marked on the new triangle where the bolt should go to line up with the mount on the swingarm. Works perfect! Gained rear height and improved turn-in immensely.
    IMG_3587.jpg IMG_3591.jpg
     


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  2. sunofwolf

    sunofwolf New Member

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    that is nice work
     


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  3. OZ VFR

    OZ VFR Member

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    First of all, make sure that the aluminium you used is a hardened sheet. There is a lot of force applied to them triangles.
    Secondly, our suspension has triangles because it's a rising rate suspension. The further the suspension travels, the harder it gets, or the more the suspension compresses, the more force it needs to compress it further.
    That's why to raise the rear, you normally lengthen the shock, that way you're not affecting the rising rate.
    Saying that, I'm not sure how your modification has affected this, it might be fine.
     


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  4. RVFR

    RVFR Member

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    What Oz said.
     


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  5. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Jim I'm glad this has worked for you (and $2 plus beer is a good price), but I think it would have been a lot easier to fit a shim between the top shock clevis and the frame cross-member.
     


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  6. JimHanus

    JimHanus New Member

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    OZ VFR,
    I used 6061 aluminum (don't know what Honda uses). I agree on the pro-link rising rate linkage, but shimming the shock moves the dogbone closer to the cat converter (only had about 1/4" clearance to start). Doing it this way keeps more clearance, and the difference between the bolt hole location on stock vs. mine is only about the width of one bolt hole. I can't feel any difference, although there must be some. But it works great for me so that's all I'm concerned about. As they say: your results may vary.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2015


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