Honda Accord - Brake Replacement

Still talking Honda's, just not bikes.

My wife typically drives our Accord. Its a 2006 EX, with the 6 cylinder.

I've owned several Honda cars, and my biggest issue with them is their braking systems. I think they use inadequate rotors that warp way too easily. I can have them cut, and 5000 miles later they vibrate like there's no tomorrow.

I'm looking for opinions on replacement rotors and pads. I know some of the familiar names, Brembo, EBC, Bendix, etc. But there are always tons to choose from.

I don't need a race set up. This is normal suburban type of driving, some highway trips on occasion. Sure, there's some spirited driving mixed in, but this is an Accord we're talking about, not a Porsche.

I have considered getting either slotted or drilled, but the prices usually jump a lot for that. (Example - I can score 2 Brembo standard front rotors for about $100. If I move to slotted or drilled, then I'm looking at $250+).

EBC seems reasonably priced, and I think they have a decent reputation?

My questions:

1. What brand of rotors would you recommend?

2. Would you go with the slotted or drilled, or is solid fine considering the vehicle.

3. What brand of brake pad? And I assume I should be looking at ceramic?

4. Anyone ever use a brand called "Powerstop"? Looks like I could get 4 rotors, drilled & slotted, plus all the ceramic pads, for about $300.

(For what its worth, I really only need the front rotors and pads).

The main concern is that they make the car stop. Then I want them to last. I don't want squeaky brakes, nor do I want to be cleaning the wheels every 200 miles because of excessive break dust.

Thoughts?

 

so I replaced my rotors on my 2005 Accord SE with WAGNER rotors for the same reasons you are replacing yours... I put over 20k miles on this car since and they've lasted through. I wanted to go good, but not racing good, and definitely not ridiculous aftermarket good. Wagner is the "platinum" aftermarket line that Advanced Auto Parts gets usually.

oh yeah, and I did the work myself. I thought it was gonna be easy because I replaced the rotors on my folks Subaru Forester the month before and I had both their front rotors and pads swapped out inside of an hour. This shit kicked my ass for almost 4 hours. Of course I didn't have a lift, and had to go get a breaker bar, and used a hammer more than I usually do, but I got it done. forking mechanics and their compressor driven air-tools.

 

I think Pliskin is getting bore................lol
Just get another car like I do so you don't have to worry of fixing them.....................otstir:

 

Damn, Scuba! You rollin in it kid!

My days of living large are 3 years behind me, and I'm still diggin out. I admit I think like you, but the bank account disagrees.

 

Owned nothing but Honda cars and motorcycles all my life, never had an issue with warped rotors in the short amount of time you are. Not that long ago we had the front rotors resurfaced and pads replaced for the first time on our 2004 CR-V with 110,000 miles, rear brakes still good. My Honda S2000 just had the front brakes serviced at 90,000 miles and I drive the car pretty hard with track days and mountain drives regularly. You must brake really hard or long to be having problems so soon.

Rather than spending a bunch of money on high priced rotors, look for a set that have been Cryo-treated, this has been known to significantly reduce brake rotor issues. I believe Stop-Tech makes some good ones but they are available from many manufacturers.

Other things that cause brake rotor problems:
- Stuck caliper
- Lug nuts not torqued equally and to 80 lb-ft (I always hand torque my wheels)
- Alignment out of spec (causing uneven tire wear and stress on the rotors)
- Riding the brakes in the rain
- Having a shop that does not have a brake lathe that turns the rotor on the car, this makes for the truest machining of the rotors on the car.

 

Thanks V4. Some good points that I'll definitely check into. I agree that this is happening way too quickly. Now, I will say that my wife's Accord seems to have it happen more frequently. Emphasis on the wife drives it. Shhh. Don't tell her I said that.

I also have a civic that I use to commute sometimes, and its what I taught my kids to drive on. Those brakes have lasted a little longer, but I'm still not too happy with their overall performance.

My mechanic (and I really do trust him) says he's going to go over everything with a fine tooth comb this time. Possible its the calipers hanging up, but there are never any signs of scorching, nor do I ever smell brakes burning when I drive it. Car has always been aligned, and provided with a digital printout when complete. Lug nuts...interesting. I'll have to make sure they are at the proper specs.

I've actually already ordered and received the new parts. Arrived today. I went with Brembo rotors and decided on aftermarket Akebono pads - which are ceramic, and not OEM - but I'm thinking about making a switch to EBC GreenStuff Pads. I've heard some really good things about them. Keep in mind, this is a 4 door family sedan, not a tuner.

So that's my story. I'm going to do the brake-in on the new stuff, just to make sure my wife isn't killing them. Hopefully this will do it.

Thanks for everyone's input.

 

I just put a set of powerstop zinc plated drilled/slotted rotors (bought the four wheel set with ceramic pads) on my Crown Victoria a few thousand miles ago for about $100 cheaper than the parts houses wanted to sell me the garbage OE replacement stuff for. Braking performance is GREATLY improved (far more than I would have thought) and the reviews are generally very positive.

Drilled rotors are less prone to heat warping, but like v4 dude says, other things can cause rotor warping. Either use a torque limiting socket or a torque wrench on your lug nuts. When the greasemonkey at your inspection shop runs the lug nuts in as far as the trigger will run them, he's squishing the hub of the rotor, potentially warping the rest of it. I always loosen and retorque my lugs by hand after the car goes in for service. Also be on the lookout for loose/worn suspension parts. I always check wheel bearings and ball joints for play whenever I have the opportunity to pull a wheel.

EDIT: Got caught posting at the same time! If you mechanic has inspected the front end thoroughly and can't find any parts to sell you I'd say your only factors are driving style (as you suspect), rotor steel quality, and maybe overtorqued nuts (ouch!).

 

I've worked at a Honda/Acura shop for years now. We generally use aftermarket rotors and have near 100% satisfaction. I personally would use Centric, cause they paint the hub of the rotor, but any other decent brand will work for you. I.e. - Wagner, Raybestos, ACDelco. They're all from Vietnam/China anyhow. The real problem with newer Hondas is the use of aftermarket pads. I would say either Akebono or Monroe would be worth the gamble. Gotta be ceramic, and absolutely have to have removable shims to allow the application of high-temp brake grease to those shims. However, you can never go wrong with the OEM pads from Honda. They are the best, bar none. Three things to remember on any Honda vehicle brake job: 1. Clean hub surface where rotor mates to it. 2. Clean and re-grease (high-temp brake grease) the sliding pins on each caliper bracket, they must move freely. 3. Most important: Clean the pad beds on the brackets. That's the part where the end of the pad sits in the shim. Clean the shim and the bracket underneath said shim. The rust will build up fast there and seize the pad, not unlike a sticking caliper scenario. That may be your problem. I wouldn't mess with drilled or slotted rotors. No need. As far as breaking in the new pads, 5 minute drive, 6-10 stops, first stop go super light on the brake, then go gradually heavier on each stop after, up to the final stop, which should be near panic-braking. Park the car, let it cool down for at least an hour, and you're done.

I can't believe my first post here is about cars. Geez...

 

I guess everyone has their own experiences and preferences. For all I know, maybe my wife rides the brakes where ever she goes. I just know that for all the quality built into Honda (cars), I've never been real impressed with their braking systems.

NJVFR - Thanks for the good info. As I mentioned in a post above, I went with the Brembo rotors and the Aekbono pads (Ceramic). I didn't go with the slotted or drilled rotors - at this point, I couldn't justify the price difference between standard Brembo and the drilled/slotted. I also have my mechanic doing the install. While I believe I'm capable of installing the new pads/rotors, I want a professional to go through this and check the system. He's been my mechanic for 10 years and done tons of work to all of my vehicles, from my Jag to my Truck. I know he'll do the right thing.

At what speeds do you recommend the break in (5 minute drive; 6 to 10 stops)?

Oh yea, NJVFR - your first post here - thanks for helping me out. Now where's some pictures of your bike? Where in northern jersey are you - we might be neighbors.

 

Use factory pads as they usually have the best compound for good braking, long life and low noise/dust. Many factory pads also come with new caliper pins, or bracket covers, or other hardware thay you should usually replace with new pads to ensure a good and lasting job until the new pads are worn out again.

Use the cheapest piece of shit rotors you can find. They're all made in the same sweatshop in taiwan out of tinfoil and dog turds now days. Just replace the rotors when the pads wear out and you're likely to be a happy camper, and it's quicker and easier (most of the time, with knock off rotors anyhow) to just clean everything up nice and put new rotors on. Machining a warped rotor used to re true them, now it's just a bandaid and once these rotors get hot and abused enough to warp, they will easily warp again before you can get through another set of pads.