help with problem! losing power......

riding bike (98 fiw) with lights on all going well, when i press the full beam the bike has noticeable loss of power, dash lights dim (not by much more than expected), and when i hold the button in it feels like the bike might actually kick out if i kept holding it. when the full beam is on by itself there is no problem

bit of history, bike wouldnt start a while back (old alarm gave out) so i got the alarm removed and it goes fine. but now nearly constantly has the FI light on, if its running at standstill it is not on but under acceleration or in tandom with braking/indicating it is on...........

:confusion:

 

With a bike of that age, inspect and clean all connectors, battery terminals and ground points. Look for corrosion which pass voltage, but not current. Check stator connectors for heat damage, clean and burnish contact with fine sand paper or use an emory board (fingernail sanding board).

 

Definitely time to do "The Drill".

 

watch this
http://www.hondavfr.it/800-6/il-connettore-delle-masse/


DRAGO (BG)

 

tested regulator - it reads the same volts as the battery 13.06.......
Leakage test was 1.1ohm
Battery at rest is 13.06v
At idle 14.02v
At 5000 rpm 13.8v

stator shows 0.9 ohms across 3 wires, no continuation.
It reads 17 +/- at idle and 57 v +/- at 50 rpm

The battery was charged and read 13.06v, dropped to 12.8 an hour later and 12 hours later it's at 12.7v

 

hello usually when our bikes have problems charging the cause is the stator that breaks
to see if it works the best way is this:
Take a bulb 12v and plug one by one to the wires coming from the stator
motion turned on the light bulb must have the same intensity of each wire
if on a wire bulb is less intense wants to say that one element of the stator is broken and does not charge

good job



DRAGO (BG)

 

procured a light bulb 12V better with a socket that has two wires for connection
disconnecting the connector between stator and regulator
a wire connecting the bulb to a yellow wire to time it is from the stator and other wire bulb in gnd
to do bike running the same procedure on all three wires
the bulb must have the same intensity on all three
if on a wire the bulb lights less intense means that the stator is by changing
happened to me that turning on the headlights turned off the dashboard, I solved by changing the stator
I hope you have understood the process because I have problems with the translation hello


DRAGO (BG)

 

Just ordered new regulator ............ SHINDENGEN-MOSFET-FH020AA-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-KIT-REPLACES-FH012AA
Thanks to the ECB printing money it cost me 140 euro.......

Ordered a soldering kit and wire connectors. Need to learn how to fit this new r/r

 

you have to remove those to try


DRAGO (BG)

 

Ok just so I'm straight... Iv checked 3 wires as shown while bike is OFF. Set at 20 ohm it read 0.01 for a few seconds on each one before returning to zero. Set at 200 ohms it settled on 1.0 on each and there was no continuity to ground... I'll source a bulb set up to check it that way soon... looks like rectifier

 

often the measurement with the instrument is not reliable, try to take the test as I explained with backlight that has a more secure and easy to check


DRAGO (BG)

 

measuring tool says only if there is continuity but not if it works correctly the stator


DRAGO (BG)

 

Your symptoms are almost exactly what I had when my R/R went bad. mello dude & I redid the wiring to make it beefier and replaced it with the MOSFET rectifier. That took care of everything for me.

 

Those are great numbers....what voltage do you get at the battery without the engine running & under load (high beams on)?

Have you checked for stored ECU codes? FI light indicates an issue.

...and 50 rpm.....WOW. I surprised it would run that low~ ;-)

 

its at 11.6 v still with high beams, thats after a few days without a decent charge though and i was running it for a minute without stator hooked up so I think the battery itself is fine, its only a year old........

that meant to say 5000rpm.. surely they are not great numbers?

the FI light is not flashing a code sequence, its just muddled up

 

hopefully will do the same here, which wires did you change the 12/14 ga wire for a 10ga from the stator
(or is that even possible i think the stator has to be removed to do that?)

 

Well.. The new mosfet regulator came on Monday and I got it onto the bike and she fired up.. drove it on Tuesday about 40 and just got a chance now to run the drill again. Straight away not good. Battery at rest 12.6 at idle 14.3 and at 5000 rpm 14.3v

What is wrong with it!

I'm going out now to disconnect alternator wires maybe I joined them badly. I'll recheck it and reconnect it. Does it need new stator?

 

Ok. Drill results. Leakage test 1mA
Battery output rest 12.6v idle 14.3v and 5000rpm 14.3v
Alternator at pins connecting to regulator showed no continuity across 3 and 1.0ohms between the 3
Alternator running showed ac volts 17.5 across 3 and 65 ac volts at 5000rpm across 3.
Regulator shows 14.8v at unit at idle and 14.8v at leads at idle. This reading did not change at 5000rpm. Is that normal? It showed no continuity to earth from green.

I guess I'm worried that the battery test at idle and 5000rpm stays at 14.3. Is the battery is not getting a charge as it was at 12.6v at rest after 30k ride yesterday and sitting overnight

 

those are good numbers, mosfet regulates nicer at idle hence 14.8 volts. 12.6-12.8v is showing a fully charged battery

 

I think the earth block is your problem.
This always affects the FI light and yellows out all other lights when draw is high.