Have to replace both??????

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by DeannaLee, Jun 21, 2012.

  1. DeannaLee

    DeannaLee New Member

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    (5th Gen with 40K) Anyone ever had the RR and Stator go bad at same time? I was having some issues keeping the battery charged and went through the normal routine. Found only 12.5v @ 5k rpm, suspected the RR instantly. However, a few months ago I melted the stator wire harness connector. Did some research and straight wired them. Did some wiring tests after that repair and all looked good until this issue. So I thought with several crescent charging system issues I would take it to a dealer and have them diagnose it. Their response was need to replace stator and RR; to the tune of $750 I might add, criminals!!

    Before I go buying several hundred dollars in new parts I wanted to ask if any one has had,or seen the RR and stator go bad at same time? I guess the only thing it will hurt by trading them both out is my wallet but certainly do not want to do that if I do not have to.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. stoshmonster

    stoshmonster New Member

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    Wow Holy Smokes! :faint:

    Wire My Bike has the upgraded MOSFET R/R and stator for your bike listed at $275 for the pair.

    Click me.>>>>>Wire My Bike
     
  3. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    I'd prob follow that link above. I don't think it is that difficult a repair to do yourself or with one friend who knows their way around a toolbox...
     
  4. ubermaxii

    ubermaxii New Member

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    I would do a bit more research - try and figure out why the harness melted. I imagine one component could easily kill the other so replacing the pair sounds reasonable to me. Good luck! I'll do a bit of research myself and will post any helpful findings....

    Okay that didn't take much effort :)

    The voltage test on the Stator is easy-ish to do yourself. If voltages from the stator are good, stator is good. The RR (which turns the AC voltage into DC voltage and regulates the voltage) would be the suspect if the stator checked out.....BUT an old, weak battery can have trouble maintaining a charge despite getting a perfect charge from the RR. Sometimes a bad battery will charge, start, etc just fine.... it just can't keep up without intervention from plug in chargers, etc. If the dealership didn't pull your bike apart (spending at least an hour testing), they likely based their "diagnosis" off of your description. Hope that helps!

    If it makes you feel better, I would rather be hunting electrical problems than what I am doing - trying to figure out how fuel is getting past my injectors into the oil and determining if any engine damage resulted from the thinned oil!:mad:
     
  5. DeannaLee

    DeannaLee New Member

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    Thanks for the quick input, please keep it coming.

    I know my way around tool box pretty well, that with a little know how and a clymers manual and the job does not look to bad. Was already on wire my bike and priced out everything, will get this done for way less than those freak'in pirates.

    The plug end melting and possibly frying something else is making me lean towards swapping it all out. Looks like it may be time to heat up the credit card.
     
  6. ubermaxii

    ubermaxii New Member

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    Just double check the battery before you spend a penny.... maybe you're not as a cheap as me, though:smile:
     
  7. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    A dealer has to charge money to cover overhead, pay taxes and pay all the employees, and try to make a return for the investors, etc. it's not personal it's just business. A dealer will want to change everything related to a problem because they don't want the hassle of a call-back if they send you out the door and you break down all pissed off 5 miles down the road because they tried to go too cheap and half-ass the job, so it's partly peace of mind and confidence factor too.

    Usually they don't both fail, but a shorted RR could take out the stator too. But the simple checks in the manual should pinpoint which component is defective.

    What i've seen is that the connectors are the root of all evil, here's some pictures of one before total meltdown:
    http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanic...-eletrical-fire-melted-wiring.html#post329223

    Change them both if it makes you feel better and you'll sleep well knowing you don't have to worry about it leaving you stranded. But do check you battery especially if you use a battery tending device that are prone to overcharge and boil the battery dry such that it indicates a good "12 volts" but has no guts left to drive current or accept a high current charge such as from the RR.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2012
  8. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    A fail R/R could easily fail to a dead short and fail a sator in my opinion. Difficult to know what went wrong as the R/R's are sealed.
     
  9. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    Chicken or the egg kinda thing.
     
  10. DeannaLee

    DeannaLee New Member

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    Thanks again for all of the help. I am thrifty as well and tried swapping the batt first as the old one was over three years old, no joy. I am bringing the bike home tomorrow and going to order all of the parts this week end. The job does not look to bad and piece of mind will be worth it. At least that is what I am telling myself.

    Thanks again everyone.
     
  11. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    Sounds like the famous Fred's in Corvallis. Try AllRide in Newport. The harleydoods that hang out there only look like they need bathing and flossing..;)
     
  12. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    I wrote a lot about both issues here.
    http://vfrworld.com/forums/5th-gene...-stalled-red-light-wouldnt-start-back-up.html
    Stator R/R tests as well.

    One advise.I would recommend buying stock Stator OEM not Ricks.Ricks does not even come close.
    https://www.powersportsplus.com/index.php?pcsid=htg4q32nn0at7ggm3fbfhqt922&p=cart
    great price on OEM genuine stator under $160
    Buy Yamaha R1 Regulator 2004 or newer letters starting with FH which is newer more efficient unit and never heats up.
    Good luck.
    On the thread I explained the wiring and where to order the plugs. Don't buy wire my bike package since both units are sub par in quality.
     
  13. DeannaLee

    DeannaLee New Member

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    Rubo, What is it about the Ricks stator? Performance, fit, what???? I was getting ready to order the RR and Stator from wire my bike until I saw this.
     
  14. DeannaLee

    DeannaLee New Member

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    Another question. You mentioned above that both units are subpar, is that even with the upgraded RR they carry? It is claiming to comparable to the R-1 RR.
     
  15. DeannaLee

    DeannaLee New Member

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    Another question. You mentioned above that both units are subpar, is that even with the upgraded RR they carry? It is claiming to comparable to the R-1 RR.
     
  16. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    Joshua (tightwad) has sold a ton of R/Rs and I give him credit for my curiousity to dive into the journey of all about vfr/cycle charging systems and why I redid mine. I went a different route, but if someone said my choice is Ricks or the R1(Shindengen) I would get the R1 (new!). Check the kit at Roadstercycle at the link below. (Also if you go this way you can skip the vfrness.) BTW - no way go OEM R/R. If you absolutely gotta have plug and play the Ricks is about the only option.

    --- The lastest R1 part number is -- Yamaha part # 1D7-81960-01-00 and can be had over at RonAyers for around $135.

    Or if you want to buy a complete kit the same is a Shindengen FH020AA and can be bought at
    Roadstercycle-Index

    With this kit you get the R1 R/R and wiring included to hook it up. I helped a neighbor a couple weeks ago install one in his Suz 1150E and it wasnt all that hard to install, and worked out fine.

    - I am also a fan of the Compufire R/R, (I'm running one) but you should have some decent mechanical ability and some patience with doing a sano wiring install for proper operation and reliability.

    Stator - I didnt replace a stator on mine, and going only what I have read on the threads between Ricks and OEM, I would probly go with the OEM. Also I would consider a HD rewind from Custom Rewind. (cost $100 last time I checked) link --
    - CUSTOMREWIND.COM

    btw - average life of OEM is 40k to 50k
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2012
  17. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Hi bro sorry to reply late was at work.
    On Stator
    Once you see Ricks stator and OEM side by side you'll know what I mean.OEM is well made.Beautifully solidly insulated.Ricks are cheap in comparison and insulation showing lot of places bare wire.No bare wire should touch the body of the stator or it will get shorted.Ricks wires and the body come extremely close to touching the body and only extremely thin layer of epoxy separating.
    I called their "customer support" Lady told me it is how they are....They are made in Taiwan...not in the States.
    In short it will not last as long as OEM.
    [​IMG]
    OEM below.Notice heavy duty insulation.Just beautiful.Notice how bare Rick's is....
    gallery_11167_3051_30978.jpg
    You can clearly see the quality difference of both.

    On Regulator again OEM Yamaha regulars are supreme.Made in Japan not cheapo Chinese crap.I had Rick's "upgraded "regulator last me exactly just over a year then promptly failed.I could not refund or exchange, frankly I care less about Ricks products.
    This is my experience and I am sure they are happy Ricks costumers here as well.Question depends on durability in the long run.
    You make your choices.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2012
  18. DeannaLee

    DeannaLee New Member

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    Good to know. I ordered the stator tonight and can find the R-1 RR all over E-Bay. Was looking at the link MD sent as well and he FH020 kit looks like a winner as well. Whether I get one from Ebay for $80 the run around getting connectors it seems like it will be close the $$$$ in the end.

    When you installed yours how did you convert the stock two red wires and two green wires down to one? I have seen several methods on here and the internet, any advantage to one way or the other?
     
  19. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    I am assuming you have 5th gen. Mello dude and I both skipped bikes wiring harness.
    The Super Mosfet Kit (Mello Dude link) looks great considering that its a new regulator.You got everything you need there.Plugs only insert one way into regulator hence you can't make a mistake.There is no need to hook up with bike harness thus your question is irrelevant since you will directly go from regulator to battery.

    If you decide to buy used regulator (what I did from ebay) then below is where I bought necessary plugs.
    R/R Connectors
    Part A - the Battery Connection:FH012 Complete Kit Part A $24.95 Great product come with fuse holder and extra fuse.
    NEW! - FH012/010 Connectors with Leads
    R/R Connectors
    You want the stator connection with bare wire on the other end which you will solder to stator wire 3 yellow with 3 yellow.Order does not matter.
    I recommend solder direct stator wires and eliminate this weak point.Heat shrink wrap and you'll fine your bike will run better.
    By doing the wiring this way you bypass factory set up which is not designed well.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2012
  20. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    ^^^ I like Jim Davis and Eastern Beaver, but jeez, you get gigged pretty good for shipping from Japan.

    - I hear ya on the stator solder up, but I like to check the stator once in a great while, and with the 280 Metri pack (30amp) or 630 Metri pack (46 amp) connectors, they have enough cajones to avoid meltdown, and be able to take apart to check. Just another option.
     
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