hard start when cold

Cleaned my carbs (but not the enriching circuit)
will start on a 1 sec spray of starting fluid and stay alive if you play with the throttle for a bit. Idles well in 30 sec-1 minute
Choke DOES have an effect on RPM. When hot choke will increase RPM to 4.5k, so the circuit works?


Would plugs maybe cause this?

 

My first thought is that you didn't clean them well enough. No offense intended but cleaning the pilot jets and idle circuit isn't as easy as shooting some carb cleaner and compressed air through the passages. It sounds like there is still a restriction there.

 

Delicate balance......++

Once it's gotten cool enough to need the choke for starting, it's a delicate balance between not enough and too much choke. Too much coats the plugs with wet fuel, a non-start deal, so begin cranking with only a wisp of choke and only increase while cranking. Slamming choke lever to the max is not a proper way to start. Don't open the throttle while cranking, and dive back into the carbs to clean the pickup tubes you missed.

Best not to use starting fluid as it can damage pistons, rings, and cylinders, and that's no arty2:

New plugs free of deposits often aid starting, so give that a try.:wink:

Of course, if the battery is weak it may not have enough reserve to fully power both the starter and the ignition circuits, dropping available voltage to both.

 

Changed the plugs to factory warm weather NGKs today, no change. Battery is 2 weeks old, keeping it charged apart from my cranking sessions =p
I'll back off the starter fluid. I've been spraying it on the air filter so that only the gasses really get to the cylinders (by far the safest way to use it. the guys who are melting their engines are directly spraying it into the intake)
Where the heck are the pickup tubes? Do i really need to split these off of the mounting plate to get them really clean? It's gonna be a super major PITA if i do =/
ALL ports, jets, linkages, and sliders got cleaned really well (the ones i can access while having the 4 carbs stuck together). I've cleaned carbs before so I've had SOME practice.

It should be noted that the bike initially fires on the first crank and dies half a second-2 seconds later. After that, it doesn't fire, but chugs when full choke is applied

*I also have 2 new fuel filters, one for each fuel inlet on the carbs, each flows around 5gph. That shouldn't be an issue should it? The gpm for just one is more than the bike would use at top speed

Upon starting the bike off of a spurt of starter fluid, i can run around all I like on the bike. If i go somewhere and am inside for over 3 hours though I doubt the bike will start. It starts fine after 2 hours of cooling after being warm *timed test yesterday

 

NO NEED to separate carbs to clean enrichment tubes.

Time to try SeaFoam.

 

Don't use snake foam or sea oil, save your money and use a real carb cleaning product, e.g berrymans. Look up the ingredients, SF has nothing that would clean a carb...

 

I may be way off base here, but have the valve clearances ever been checked that you know of? On my Suzuki battling to start and backfiring when cold was the result of tight valves.

 

Is that dyslexia? Yoking aside, you dont wana seperate them carbs to service them! You should not have to use starter fluid if the yah-B was performed correctly. Get back in there and do your doo-dill-ah-gence. In carb cleaning 101, cleanliness is next to gawdliness, so clean them well with various wires and compressed air, (big on compressed air, did you use it?) tie wraps from bread bags work wonders along with canabalizing wire to use one strand. Good luck and keep us posted, and Knock off that Starter Fluid, it rots your brain too. :wacko:

Sheet, sorry to edit, but I just noticed your working on a 500, so now the sky is the limit...like above poster sed, check valves too...hows your wallet?