Got some problems with the new girl (86 VFR700)

Nothing very important for now but I do wish to get it working soon.

I just got the 86 VFR700 today and noticed when I try and turn the key to the LOCK position, it'll go just fine but WILL NOT actually lock it up. I can still turn everything even in the LOCK position, could this be something wrong with the switch itself? Got both original keys

Also noticed I can't turn it even more counter-clockwise from the LOCK position so I can pop off the seat. The back off pops off when I turn the Helmet Holder the correct way, but it looks like it's still locked in the middle portion and the front don't really clamp and can be pulled outwards. Not sure if that's how VFR seats usually are or not so I wanted to check.

Bringing her to the shop on Thursday so was hoping I could see what's up before then and get it taken care of, since after she comes out from the shop I was looking forward to riding her everywhere and feel more comfortable if the steering lock worked.

 

If the handle bars are slightly moved from stock position or slightly bent they'll limit the steering by bumping into the tank and not allowing the fully sideways position necessary to go into LOCK. Seat needs careful placement to slide on, carefully fitting the front fingers into their slots.

 

I gave it a quick check and it doesn't LOOK like it's bent. But since it's my first VFR I have no idea if this is the stock position or if it was modified at all. From what I can see, and that's not much with not tearing it apart and it's dark out, it doesn't seem to have anything dangling or damaged in it. I do see signs (already know about this) of it being lowsided on it's left but it looked like minor at best and nothing major. Could be wrong though, so maybe there is some underlying issue there?

EDIT: A bunch of crap out. Since I got the seat off (I'm just an idiot who didn't know it's back THEN up), I found out it was a blown bulb for why it wouldn't light up.

Still don't know why it's not locking at all, no problems with the key (hell I have trouble with my CBR250R's key, the original VFR key is butter smooth).

I noticed the brake light only lights up when the rear brake is used. Is this normal or does the VFR have a front switch that could possibly be bad? I mean I use both brakes anyways while stopping so it's not a big deal if it's the later, but still something I gotta look at.

 

I have a couple bikes that are finicky about the lock position. I kinda have to manipulate the bars and key at the same time to get it to roll over into the lock position.

There is a switch on the front master cylinder that activates the rear brake light. Many times a little WD40 can bring them back to life. Look for the 2 wires from the start switch assy wire harness that lead to that switch.

 

Well I gave both the girls a damn good soapy bath when I got home a couple hours ago. Little disappointed in the Honda OEM cover for the CBR250R, doesn't really fit over both wheels and tires and to the ground like I thought it would. I tied it up and all but I'm hoping a heavy wind doesn't have the space to be vented up and push it all around. Don't have a cover for the VFR yet, was hoping to get an OEM one but if it's gonna fit like crap might as well get a CycleGear bargin bin one

Anyways it looks like it didn't even need the WD40 Captain! I let it dry a bit after the bath and tried the front brake, worked perfectly and lit up the rear tail light just fine! I know she was in storage for a good bit before I bought her, guess all the dirt from 28 years (with 18,5xx miles) and not getting a bath before being stored caused some slight issues with that.

I just wish I could have gotten all the dirt off the wheels, but it looks like it might actually be stained. Ah well, switching to CBR600R F2 stuff later down the line so it's no real big deal.

 

Shine a light on the steering lock pin and see if the bars are turning far enough. You can use a die grinder on the steel locking ring attached to the frame neck to allow it to lock with less turn of the bars.

It's also good to unbolt the ignition switch and clean and lube all the internal parts so the switch and steering lock moves smoothly and easily.

I pulled the fuse on the parking light mechanism. (the locked switch position that leaves the tail light on for when you break down on the side of the road and you need to lock the bike, but have it visable). It's too easy to accidently use the wrong lock position and run the battery down.

My origanal front brake switch would work sometimes and sometimes not. I just got a new one from the dealer for $18 bucks. Honda uses that same switch for the last 30 years.

 

Well damn, it was something simple as hell.

It's always the simple things.

The frame lock piece looks like it's gone and got busted off sometime in it's past. The steering lock pin comes out no problem at all, it's just got nothing to insert into!



Not sure what I can do about it now, that doesn't look like it'd come off and on with any normal tool. After I source a new plate, how would I even replace it? I'm skimming the service manual but I'm not seeing how it's done.

 

Bummer. How would you source a new plate? Buy a frame and cut it off? Sounds expensive. Maybe scour a bike salvage yard for a a similar looking piece? It would be easier to fabricate a new piece as it is just 1/4 steel plate cut to shape and then curved. I don't know what kind of pins or inserts hold it in place. They would probably have to be ground flush, the old plate pried off and maybe use vice grips to grab and twist the pins out? Or cut them flush to the frame and then drill them out? Sounds complicated.

The easiest fix would be to weld a new section on top to replace the missing piece. If you pull the upper tree off I think some welding blankets could tuck in all around the area and a mig welder could get in there. The gauges and cowl might need to come off for more access, but it looks fixable.

Or leave it as is and buy a front disc lock or chain and lock. That's truly the easiest fix, but it's not as elegant.

 

Apparently it was sold separately, including the two special bolts, according to the Honda EPC in one of the stickies. Used the part number to check and actually found some who SAY they have it.

I'll just see what the mechanic can do on Thursday if they do welding and if not, I'll order the parts and see if i can take it out.

 

Holy cow, your right. I always though they were installed permanently at the factory as a security device, but I do see they are sold separately. The bolts thread in. So it looks like you could grind the heads flush with the old plate, pry off the plate and use vice grips to grab and unscrew the bolts out.

Another method would be to hold a steel nut on the bolt head, then weld the inside of the nut to the bolt. Then unscrew normally.