Fuse tetting warm

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Alexander Pfarl, Jul 7, 2021.

  1. Alexander Pfarl

    Alexander Pfarl New Member

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    Greetings from Norway

    I just changed my stator and recitifier and the fuse shown on the images are getting warm and smoke comes off it. Anyone have a clue what is going om ?

    Alex
     

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  2. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    The fuse getting hot can only be caused by far too much load,

    Charge your battery fully, then you need a amp clamp to measure the amps flowing through that lead,

    I can’t tell what that connects to and from in the picture, but if it’s the out from the rec/reg to the battery I hope it’s connected to the live terminal

    I don’t know what the max output of the alternator is, but I would think in the region of 20amps


    VF1000F2F, now rideable,
     
  3. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I presume that is the main fuse, one reason for heat may be some corrosion on terminals, the corrosion increases resistance and resistance creates heat. The fuse should be 30A in that location, is it?
     
  4. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Hi Alex and Welcome to the Forum:Welcome:

    When you get a chance please swing by the Introductions part of the site and say Hi to the rest of the folks on here and perhaps tell us a bit about you and your riding history and post up a photo or two of your VFR.

    As Terry rightly says heat is normally the by-product of heavy current flows, and smoke is a clear sign something is not right.

    I am guessing you are now getting frustrated - so it is probably time to take a short break - brew some tea and focus on something else - before returning to this puzzle.

    From your post it sounds like you have already encountered the usual charging system gremlins which have let down far too many VFRs over the years.

    As for what to do now, I would retrace your steps checking that all the connections you disturbed to remove/replace the stator and RR are connected securely and correctly. Check the earthing point is secure and clear of corrosion. After that you need to try and eliminate potential causes of an unexpected current flow (pulling individual fuses to see if the current flow ceases). (ie you may have a short to earth somewhere in the loom and that is forcing the RR/Stator to operate continuously at max output rather than for just a brief period when the bike fires up to replenish the battery.

    I am however assuming your system is basically stock and you have already checked the battery is healthy (at the least check volts when it is not connected to the loom), then check the system volts from the new RR are within spec. It is unlikely, but just possible your "new" RR is faulty. Sadly there are fake RRs being sold on web and as others have found the best choice is to fit a genuine Shindengen RR.

    Good luck sorting this out Alex - and please let us know how you get on.


    SkiMad
     
  5. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Actually I didn't say that heat is a by-product of heavy current flow. What I meant is that normal current flow through an area of high resistance (corroded fuse pins for example) generates the heat. If you get rid of that high resistance (by cleaning the contacts) the heat will stop. I had exactly this on my VFR's alternator connector plug which used to get too warm to touch, as did the surrounding wires. Once I cut the plug out and soldered the wires together, the heat was gone.
     
  6. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    it could get worse fast.

    "raeva mi verker !"
     
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