I've never changed the front brakes on a motorcycle before, but I have done a ton of cars. My question is pad thickness. How do I tell the proper time to replace them? I tried to get a pic of them, but I don't have any way of supporting the front while the wheel is off unless someone in my family sits on my bike on the center stand Ideas for holding the front up while the wheel is off? As mentioned, I have a center stand.
I know there is a minimum measurement, but have no idea what it is. I just change mine when they start to get thin. The last thing I want is for the backing plate to touch the disks. It's worse on a bike because the disks are so thin compared to a car. You can put the bike on the centerstand and use a jack under the bike to gently lift the front. Or you can get a stand, like a Pitbull stand, that lifts and supports (hmm sounds like a bra) the front. Or you can support the front with straps to the ceiling if you're working inside. Or have someone sit on the passenger seat, but they'll have to be the patient sort. At one time or another I think I've read of all these different solutions used on the forum. When you change the pads, it's a good idea to clean the pistons off before you push them back into the caliper.
If you hear metal scraping metal, it's too late~ I use a 70 lb dumbbell on the rear of the seat. An 80 lb bag of concrete would work, too & be cheaper~
In the center of the pad is a groove. If enough of the pad is worn so there is no visible groove then its time to replace. Looks something like this, +1 for a jack under the bike.
I have two solutions, one for tire changes and one for suspension work. I bought a $40 front stand at Cycle Gear when they were on sale, it fits under the forks and lifts the front of the bike, real quick and easy. The other are eye hooks in the garage ceiling studs, I use this when I need to service the forks as this method allows me access to the bolt at the bottom of the forks. It will also allow me to remove the triple clamps if/when I need to the steering head bearings. The Pit Bull stand that can lift from under the forks or from the steering stem is the one to get, this way you can lift from either location and/or use it on different bikes. The steering stem pin is bike specific so that part would be just for whichever bike you have a pin for. I have a rear stand that I can use on traditional swing arms and use it on friends bikes or my Duc. They are awesome stands and are very sturdy!
I use a steel rod through the axel holes and a rear stand I already have. I have used a milk crate, a block of wood and even left over tiles while working on the front end.
If you're just replacing the pads, no need to remove the wheel. In fact, you just have to remove one pin and can slide the pads in without removing the caliper.
Pad swap is ten minutes tops, and thats with cleaning caliper with some Simple Green. Four 12 mm bolts a 6 mm allen head, and a large flat blade screw driver for the button that covers the allen head. ttyl
