Free alternative to increase bar adjustability

Folks,

I dremeled off the little nubs honda has on the triple clamp to limit adustability of the bars. That allowed me to straighten them probably 15 degrees forward without them hitting the fairing at full steering lock. I also was able to pull them up the fork about 1/4-3/8 inch from where the dealer had them set up.

Believe it or not, it makes a huge difference for someone like me who used to ride a Ducati monster with straighter bars, and also an old airhead BMW gs.

Best of all, it's free!

Karsten.

 

Sure..

Great ! It's free ! Whoopee! It won't be worth it when you topple in the parking lot and the handlebar turns on the fork leg allowing the fairing, engine cases and possibly the tank to absorb the impact..those nubs are put on there for several reasons, one of which is to prevent rotation under "certain circumstances", whether that be a topple over, or a panic braking moment .

Each to their own, but I wouldn't do it.

(and before anyone chimes in "(insert favourite expensive aftermarket bars here) don't have the nub ) " they also don't have just one clamping bolt on an alloy bar..

Rod (and yes, I am biased).

 

Rogue - You sound like you know what you are talking about. Good information - Thank You. Be careful ikavo - to each his own but do it safely.

 

I always figure it this way. I don't build bikes, I don't design bikes and I sure as hell don't engineer bikes. I'll leave that to the boys at HONDA and agree with Rogue on this one. LEAVE Sh!t alone....

 

Wise words from all of you . However, you only have to take off part of the back nub to rotate the bars forward to within 1/4" of the fairing at full lock. So you have half the back nub left, for that panic braking situation.

Also, in terms of dropping the bike, assuming you're moving forwards and not riding in reverse, the *front* nub keeps the bars from rotating back too far and folding against the tank. That nub isn't getting touched in this process.

You guys are right tho - if you cut both nubs off completely, things could get very interesting and not in a good way!

 

Fair enough.

As ever, there is the facts, the perceived facts, and the truth. I assumed wrongly that you had removed the nubs completely. My bad. :yield:

Rod

 

Not your bad....I should have attached a pic. It would have made more sense that way .

And you're still probably right. Under the right circumstances, the fact that the nub is missing some matter definitely weakend it, so if the bike spins after falling and slides backwards, I will have saved a bit on heli bars, but I'll be buying a new front fairing and maybe instrument cluster .

K

 

At the risk of being thought a smart ass, I've got to say NO!!!!

A lot of fun can be had just by messing with the OEM chit. Granted, there may be a price to pay at some point down the road, but I am and will continue to be, an unrepentant messer arounder!!

The OEMs, for the most part, do a nice job on the bikes, but there's ALWAYS some room for owner improvements.



Rex

 

A lot of fun can be had just by messing with the OEM chit. Granted, there may be a price to pay at some point down the road, but I am and will continue to be, an unrepentant messer arounder!!

The OEMs, for the most part, do a nice job on the bikes, but there's ALWAYS some room for owner improvements.

REX QUOTE

I agree but... I am an engineer and you need to be very careful with mods. It is hard to think of all the potential problems with a mod. The bike manufacturers and a lot of after market suppliers do a lot of work to make sure their stuff is tested and safe. For example the reason Helibars are the length they are is that it is the safe limit for the cables without kinking or the bars banging the tank or fairing. If you kink lines they can fail and in a worst case you loose brakes completely. That is an easy one to see but there are other more subtle problems that can happen that you just don't think of. Oh and yes Helibars have two bolts not one and a better clamping ring that the stock.