Fluid change

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by Wahlstrom, Jun 27, 2019.

  1. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom New Member

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    Gave the brakes new fluid.. Must say it was time.. At the bottom the fluid was like gel...

    Also compressed the brake pads while the bleed screw was open.. Grey brake fluid came out..

    Both front and rear got cleaned and bled.. Nice firm brakes now..

    On to the clutch...

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    Having trouble bleeding it..
    Will try to reverse bleed it first, then power bleed..

    Probably some goo in the lines, or an air bubble..

    Can’t get fluid from the master to the slave, no matter how much I press the lever
     
  2. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom New Member

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    Couldn’t reversebleed it.. I’ll try the power bleed option later
     
  3. bk94si

    bk94si Member

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    I would disassemble and clean each part instead of just trying to bleed it.
     
  4. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom New Member

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    I just tried it.. it changes gear?
    Will it change gear if no fluid is present?
     
  5. bk94si

    bk94si Member

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    Sure. You don't need to clutch to change gears. Not a great idea but you can. Just stay off the throttle while shifting. The only tough one is going from a stop into 1st.
     
  6. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom New Member

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    How “tough”?

    It changes gear just like before.. effortless..

    I think there’s fluid in the slave..

    When I pump the clutch lever and hold it in, and then open the bleed nipple, clean fluid comes out, no bubbles...

    But the fluid in the reservoir doesn’t drop as fast as bleeding the brakes.. it barely drops
     
  7. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    you'll get a better slave bleed by removing sprocket cover and clamping slave fully retracted while bleeding. air can hide behind slave piston otherwise.

    "raeva mi verker"
     
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  8. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom New Member

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    Went by the mechanic.. he said to leave it.. no air in it.. it also disengages when squeezing the lever while driving so it must be doing its job
     
  9. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Did you clean the reservoirs out - wipe them clear with paper towels and then Q-Tip all the gunk in the corners before adding new fluid?
     
  10. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom New Member

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    Of course
     
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  11. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Burp the banjo bolts.
     
  12. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    i think it's better to remove the rez from the bar, hold it upsidedown and give a quick spray with brake cleaner to remove sticky debris.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 1, 2019
  13. Yawk-oh

    Yawk-oh New Member

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    Wow.. and I thought my clutch fluid looked overdue for a change.. haha.

    Anyway, it looks like I'm having the same bleeding difficulties as you are on my new-to-me RC36. I changed my clutch fluid and tried to bleed it traditionally via the bleed nipple on the slave. The lever feels nice and firm, but the clutch won't release fully anymore. I struggle to rotate the back wheel by hand when the clutch is engaged, so the slave is definitely not extending completely.

    I tried burping the banjo bolt on the master but no cigar. I'll try Squirrelman#1's suggestion to remove the sprocket cover and clamping the slave in the fully retracted position next, as it looks like I have some bubbles in the slave still.
     
  14. Yawk-oh

    Yawk-oh New Member

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    So I was able to bleed the system completely by compressing the slave cylinder piston with a pair of locking pliers and trying again. Thanks for the tip!

    Here was my setup.

    vfrDSC_0628_sm.jpg
     
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  15. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom New Member

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    Did you ude the lever to pump fluid through? Or a tool?

    My mech told me no air was in mine, also, if I’m gear and I press the lever the rpm drops to idle..

    But...

    I would like to be 120% sure, so I’m thinking of fitting new kit..

    What about the gasket? Is it needed? Or reusable?
     
  16. Yawk-oh

    Yawk-oh New Member

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    I started by using the vacuum pump you can see in the picture, but in the end I just did it traditionally using the brake lever, because the vacuum bleeder was sucking air through the bleed screw threads.

    What gasket do you mean? There appeared to be an oil seal in the slave cylinder, but I didn't change it, as it didn't appear to be leaking. The cylinder walls were quite nasty looking, though, but it works, so I left it as is. If your slave cylinder piston is sticking (not releasing fully as if the clutch is slipping), it might need an overhaul. Then it makes sense to change the seal too.

    There was also a paper seal between the slave cylinder body and engine housing, but it doesn't really appear to seal anything.. just keeps debris away I guess.

    Edit: Oh, and I didn't need to remove the sprocket cover to access the slave cylinder, just the upper and lower fairings.
     
  17. Yawk-oh

    Yawk-oh New Member

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    Here's another picture showing the paper gasket and the sprocket cover still in place.

    vfrDSC_0629_sm.jpg
     
  18. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom New Member

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    Yeah I meant that paper seal/gasket..

    Looks reusable.. or else perhaps a small amount of liquid seal can be used..

    I’ll think I’ll order a slave cylinder kit... need something to work on
     
  19. Yawk-oh

    Yawk-oh New Member

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    You could easily cut it yourself - just get some gasket paper and draw the outline and internal diameter. I reused mine, tho.
     
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