Feel sick stripped sump plug, what to do ?

I feel sick, with a 4 day ride coming up in 2 weeks decided to change my oil and filter today. Dialing up my old torque wrench to 26nm ( book says 29nm ) started tightening the oil pan bolt bolt was starting to think was putting more pressure than I aught to on the long handled 3/4 torque wrench but was thinking maybe it was just crushing down the new washer but halted anyway to ring a friend for a quality torque wrench. Anyway becoming suspicious of my admittedly cheep torque wrench backed it off to lowest setting 13nm only to realise that it still wasn't clicking at 13nm even when testing it on another non critical bolt so believe it to have locked up or seized.

Then the sicking feeling hit when I used my normal short handled Sidcrome socket wrench which I usually used found I still couldn't tighten the bold so withdrew it to find the sumps thread alloy in about a 1/3 of the sumpbolts thread.

What would be my best course of action and are there any options that don't require the removal of the headers and sump to repair ?

Note - VFR is a Gen 5 Mk1 March '99 build..

 

Easy, best thing to do is Heloil it, all that is required is to redrill the thread to the helicoil tap size required and re tap the hole with the helicoil tap, then screw in the helicoil, the thread will be stronger than original.
This is a helicoil if you dont know what they are http://www.noblefix.com/

Most engineering suppliers stock them.

 

A helicoil may not do it. I don't think the pan has enough thickness for a coil. Just find another drain plug a tad larger. Buy a tap the same size and just tap the hole for the new plug.

So you found out why I don't buy cheap tools. Especially ones that are use for critical work. Why are you even torquing it? Once the crush washer gets snug just another quarter or half turn is all that is needed for the plug. Once the washer starts to crush it will apply enough pressure not to loosen. Just needs to be snug.

 

I've used something called Time-Sert. Better than Helicoil.

++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,

 

I like the time sert design. They look like a winner to me.

Jose

 

Sucks that I normally use a shift handled sidchrome ratchet but this time decided to do the " right " thing by the book and use a torque wrench, had used it about 7 months ago on something requiring 72nm but had backed it off to zero as is specified to store in its case so don't know why it has now ceased to function but it didn't help that it was getting dark and the kids were harassing me to take them to MacDonalds as promised at the time.

No excuse and lessons learnt just saying shouldn't have trusted the click on the long bar torque wrench would tell me when to stop so the " this don't feel right " flag would have clicked in sooner. :frown:

 

Have booked into a local Motorcycle Racing place that have used in the past, they prep a lot of race bikes and specalise in setting up racing VFR400s so have faith in them , they said they have fixed many stripped sumps so will drop it to them Tuesday.

 

Never use anything bigger than a 3/8" drive setup on that or risk what happened. It was a technical mistake to use anything larger to tighten that plug. The shorter the drive lever, the more sensitive your muscles can be.

You know what you're doing, so use your muscle sense and experienced arm to do what feels right rather than what a torque wrench tells you (Harbor Freight, don't make me laugh !!). Try to experiment with more sensible, lower torques more conservatively. After you first feel resistance when threading the plug in BY HAND, no more than 1/4 to 1/2 turn should be enough depending on the condition of the washer and your experience, having done this quite a few times b4.

Since virgin washers do crush down, the stated factory-specified proppa torque is probably good for the first installation only, i'm guessing, something that needs more finesse with a used washer.

Don't fret, most have stripped something once or twice.

 

Yes please do.

Looks like the Time-Sert design guys have one for your sump pan thickness.

"Stripped or leaking drain pans?
TIME-SERT® Drain pan thread repair kits available."

Probably shorter for the thinner pan material and still lets all the oil drain out. Doesn't stick up in pan 1/4" or so like the heli-coil would, I would think.
Good luck with it. Doesn't sound like a real problem, just time consuming bs we all go through at one time or another.

 

Have dropped my bike into the shop today spoke to the mechanic who's been there for 18 years with a couple of friends being long term customers and he said he'd likely take the sump out to inspect and probably helicoil it like 100s of bikes in the past. He said he's never had a return or issue with them but though he probably thought me nuts have also asked him to lock wire it for peace of mind seeing as I'm doing a 1600mile 4 day ride next weekend.

Linky to their site.
Rb Imports

 

That right there John....has to be the stupidest thing a biker could do. I mean what were you thinking you dumb ass doode? You aren't drilling through granite for oil you know. Mining for gold were you? Finding a short cut to hell? I can't think of anyone so stupid as to strip the threads on their oil pan...........wait a minute. Something is coming back to me.

I put a new oil pan on. I considered some of the options mentioned here which depending on your circumstances may be the answer. The oversized drain bolt has a draw back. Now you have a plug in there with a matching crush washer I presume, that is different than what is mentioned in the specs. This is fine and dandy so long as you have the bike and really who cares after it is gone. But I was not fine with that. Personal preference I guess.

 

Kid, you talkin to a EXPOIT hea !!! Big Mountie takin his fitness training to a po liddle 17mm like a polar bear on meth !

Based upon no particular facts, i state that i do believe that using a new washer every time would significently reduce the population of stripped threads on oil pans.

 

Nice to see we share something other than the Queen Randy. :wink:

They had finished it by the afternoon and already picked up, as they suggested they removed the sump and Helicoiled it, the advantage of the helicoil is you re-use the existing bolt and standard washer and as I requested they also lockwired the sump bolt though suspect that to be overkill.

Too right it is, along with world obesity and global constipation Macdonalds hypnotic power over children wreaked my VFRs sump thread.... :biggrin:

The true answer is of course the fault was 100% mine with the following lessons learnt:
Don't hurry an oil change days end when the missus is out and you should be looking after your kids.
Don't suddenly do something different when you've done something right 100s of times previously.
Don't fully trust your equipment over your gut instinct without pausing to examine what it's trying to tell you.

 

Nice one!!! Only thing of merit me can adds is: What the FUG are you doing with a 3/4 inch drive torque wrench anyway? You work on buses? I trust my calibrated elbow better than some of my Snap-On tools on sometimes ; ) and they are all 3/8 drive with the exception of a very tasty 1/2 drive that goes up to 200 foot pounds...Good luck anywho...

 

Sorry that was a typo, it WAS a 3/8 torque wrench that fails to click even on a test bolt at minimum 7 nm, NOW it's a breaker bar.

 

You are not quite right there John. I don't share my queen with anyone. Things get around that way.

 

Using the term "threads" around Randy just sets him off. Next thing ya know he'll be telling John which jacket to wear on his trip..