Exhaust heat wrap question

I purchased my VFR with the exhaust already wrapped. I am thinking about re-wrapping it as its coming apart and I need to fix a slight exhaust leak. How much should I order for the 2" wide version.

 

Why don't you remove what you have and measure it?

 

that stuff can get crumbly with age. https://www.designengineering.com/nitrous_calcs/wrap_calc.html

 

Unless there's some modified bodywork, it probably isn't a necessary item. I think it's more for looks.

 

That's not true. The two main reasons are to keep heat out of the engine area near electronics and other things. The other reason on some headers you do get a performance enhancement. It keeps the header hot to help scavenging of exhaust gas. Hot gas has faster velocities. The downside is it does degrade and on steel can promote rust and can discolor titanium

 

^^^ What he said. I would suggest removing the heat wrap entirely. The exhaust is mild steel and will rust, heat wrap has a tendency to hold in moisture and rust exhaust. If you want to keep heat in, get them ceramic coated.

 

How long a chunk of anything wrapped around a cylinder is gonna depend on the width of the material and the overlap. There's probably a formula somewhere that is sort of specific. Maybe try the folks who make the stuff.

 

You can always get your headers ceramic coated.

 

It's a full Yoshi exhaust from what I was told when I purchased the bike. I'm not sure if that affects any ideas on corrosion or not.

How much is it to get them ceramic coated? Like a legit coating, not the shit you buy in a can.

 

I'll ask a few friends who have had it done in the past and let you know what they say. I think most were on track bikes or track/street bikes.

 

I had a set of 98 headers ceramic coated and it cost me around $200 IIRC.

I found the receipt and it was actually $204.75 at Specialized Coatings in Huntington Beach.

 

Had my Vance & Hines pipes ceramic coated for about $260 plus tax. They were rusty and original coating was fading. They look great, and have held up well, but not as hard as I thought, after scratching them putting them on.

 

There are alternative coatings to headers and exhaust manifolds here:

http://www.flamesprayusa.com/flame-spray-coating-applications.php

These folks also do ceramic coatings. Flamespraying can also be done to wheels.

For pricing, check oot several sources including heavy industry. "Bike" specialists, many times are not all that specialized.

Had an instance once to paint a bicycle frame for a guy. I stripped it using methylene chloride. There were some chrome licks that needed to be removed. I took it to a "MC chrome shop" and the dude wanted some serious pesos to remove the chrome. I took the frame to an industrial outfit, they stripped the chrome for ten bucks.

Same deal with a set Honda 400 bars for my SR500. Took them to a "boutique " chrome shop for replating.. I'm glad I wasn't wearing a pair of those assless chaps with that dude.

I wish I'd known aboot plastiwrap then.. NOT!i

 

The guys I know used Jet Hot coat. One guy has had it on a built Hyabussa for a long time and has held up well on a 3oo+hp monster motor.
http://www.jet-hot.com/

 

If I had a 300hp bike any coating would last forever.

 

Yeah that bike is a beast, rode it a couple of times just on race gas never on the bottle. Its slammed and a 1/4 mile machine. It turns like a turd but its a rocket ship. I think its something like 215hp without spray and over 300 with a small single shot. But it is actually rideable around town. His builder is excellent.

 

The only time I rode the quarter was once when I took my Gold Star to Lions Drag Strip. Had a small problem with tech because of the spool wheels.

225 mph with an ET of 6.482 seconds. Damn, I lost that timing slip somewhere again.. LOL

One of the better fast guy stories of late is the guy who put his GF on the back and set a two up record at Bonneville.

 

That would be the record for an old BSA. lol