Error codes and low mileage question

Hi guys, i have a little problem, and i need your help.
I have a very low millage with the bike, less then 25 in the city :uncomfortableness:
I've tried to ride really slow and don't use vtec rpms, but there is no difference.
I only get around 35 mpg on highways, but this isn't good too.

First of all, the bike is around 24k miles, with only a KN air filter.
The bike is imported to Europe from the US,. The fuel is with higher octane here. Might be some sort of maps not optimized for this.

I started with cleaning the filter, but when i did i started the bike with map sensor and airbox air tem sensor disconnected.
The bike ran for a few minutes like this. I then reconnected all things filled the tank and had almost the same millage.

I tried 100 octane (around 95-96 US) fuel, but i think the millage got even worse.

So i decided to check for error codes in the ECM, and got 1,2 and 9 (i think).
Here is a video with the blinks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xelxxtPirks&feature=youtu.be

These are map sensor and air temp sensor related, so maybe they were recorded while i was cleaning the filter.

So my question is, do you know if the ECM uses some sort of default map when these errors are present?
If so, maybe this is the reason, i got low millage again.

 

Hey Burk. There are a few things to consider here.

These bikes don't "need" that high of an octane. People will debate this all day long, but you could certainly run anything from 87-93 with no issues.

1. What's the running temperature once warmed up? Sometimes poor fuel mileage can be due to a stuck open thermostat. Not that 35 is bad, in my opinion.
2. Does it have a power commander (PC)? if you don't know, this would usually be tucked somewhere under the seat.
3. If you are getting that many codes at once, I suspect electrical issues. I would say its highly unlikely that all of those codes are due to simultaneously failed parts. Take a look at the link below, and specifically to post number 9. You need to do "The Drill" on your R/R.

I can tell you that when my R/R failed, I had very similar issues with my error codes: I was being told my Speed Sensor was shot, then my MAF, then this, then that. It went on and on. Changing the R/R and clearing all the codes eliminated every one of those so-called problems. So before you start just throwing money at these parts, check your electrical system!!!

Read this link and get back to us. Trust us on this one...

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures

By they way - what year is your bike? The 2002 to 2005 had a recall on a wiring harness. Not sure how it would work over there considering you had a US bike imported, but you'll need to find out if that recall was ever done.

 

Hi mate, thanks for the message.
I should have explained more.

The bike a 2003 totally stock engine, with only a KN air filter.
I have the bike for only half a year, but i know for the recall and few months ago i left the bike in the dealership.
They did their job perfect. I'm understand enough from electronics (i stripped and checked the bike after i got it from them), so i'm sure that all was done the right way. I measured the voltage after that and it was showing constant 14,06V at idle, with high and low beams and ad 5000 rpm.
The temperature i got is normal. It goes to 175 after 1-2 miles max. It doesn't overheat, or drop the temp under 165 when running.
The thing with fuel in Europe is that there isn't any lower than 95 octane (which is measured different than the US, around 93 of your gas).
The main concern for me is the city millage. I think that everything lower than 30 is too bad.

Now about the error codes.
When i cleaned the air filter, i disconnected the temp and map sensor and started the bike for a few minutes without them.
I think this is when the errors got in the ECM. This is why i asked the question about ECM.
Does the it go in some sort of default setting and/or maps, when there are some of errors recorded?

Like if there is a faulty sensor, you replace it, but you need to clear the errors from it, so the ECM can work correctly.

 

I think I follow.

I appreciate you understand electronics, but it still never hurts to follow that link I posted and check your R/R.

Did you try to clear the error codes, or is that what you are asking for help with? I don't recall how to clear the codes...hopefully someone else will chimp in.

 

35 MPG is not that bad.
Check your tires pressure, air filter and plugs......Not much to it :sad: Control your throttle.

 

35miles hiway is bad since most of us are getting mid 40's or better.

The most common issue any efi controlled engine can have is bad spark/plugs. Next it air intake temp sensor then o2 sensor. 6th gen bikes (2002 to 09) have two o2 sensors. These do half the engine each. If one acts up then the ecm wont throw a code until it is seeing no change at all or no signal at all. Our bikes use heated o2 sensors of the 4 wire type. They are signal, Vref, signal ground and heater. The heater uses the body to act as a return. Check that this heater is working by measuring the voltage across it to frame and then disconnect the sensor and measure the float voltage (should be batt volts minus 1.2v)

To check spark, pull a coil and plug out, rig it up so that the bolt hole on the coil is connected to both the outside of the plug and frame. Then start the bike and observe the spark. It should be bright blue with some white on each end (I use a vid cam to capture this and then go frame by frame looking at the spark).

IAT sensor is in the air cleaner box on the left side bottom. Personally this is a bad spot but this is where it is. In the manual it shows how to test this thing.

Now you said you had unplugged some other sensors. If your map sensor has a crack in it or the vacuum lines leak, then this can also cause lower mileage. And while you are in there make sure the evap purge solenoid is connected and that the lines are not kinked or pinched. I noticed a small difference when I took off my evap system. Another thing to look at is the pair system. This adds extra air to the exhaust to burn unburnt fuel, problem is the ecu will see this as a leaning of the fuel ratio and add more fuel. Make sure this system is working right or your mileage will drop.

I agree with Pliskin, its a gas engine, if it can be vaporized at ambient then the bike can burn it. Take your bike to a dealer and have them wipe the codes and factory reset the ecu. This clears the ecu memory and sets it to break in defaults. This allows the bike to learn you and the fuel your using. If you have the fairings off then the guts around me will do it for free, not sure about where you are though. Make sure they use the palmpilot based hdc as it is the only way to factory reset the ecu. Dont worry about the odometer reading, that is stored in the gauge unit.

Let us know what you have done and found.

 

Maybe PO dropped gearing with smaller front sprocket or larger rear ??

 

Wow thats a lot of info.
Thanks guys.
As for the PO, he left it stock gearing. He was mad about keeping the original conditon of the bike.
ZEN biker, thanks for the input. I'll start checking every thing on the list you gave me. I have a service, owners and heynes manual, so i think i'll be good.
Will keep you posted guys. I just want some nice weather, so i can ride the bike and check for improvement.

I'm realy sory if it is hard for you to understand me. I can speak English, better than i write it

 

Your running temperature seems too low like you have a stuck-open thermostat--that will hurt your mileage across both highway and city such as you have experienced. To verify this you could try to block off the radiator(s) with some cardboard or tape to get the temperature up about 200F and check that the fuel mileage goes up. i had to block off 3/4 of the radiator to even see the low end of 'normal' operating temps with a stuck-open 'stat.


The ECU has a default limp-home mode with mapping to use in the event of a sensort failure. Your RR is okay or you wouldn't be getting the 14 volts at idle and 5k.

 

Well it is still around 40-60 degrees here. And these temps are when i'm moving with over 20-30 mph. If i stop in the traffic the bike goes to 223 and the fan kicks in.
About the RR, i did mesure it, i've mesured the stator for short circuits, and all was fine.

As for the o2 sensors, I suspect they are working properly, because the fuel here full of sh@#$t and this is a common problem with cars.
I'll messure them tonight.

 

Hey guys, happy Easter.

To continue my saga, i did measure, the o2, map and tps sensors.
All were fine, BUT the the two power cables for the o2 sensors are 10,5V, they should be showing according to heynes just "battery voltage", and according to service manual just voltage. But my bike has a good strong battery and i dont think this is "battery voltage".

What do you think?