Emergency regulator swap

Bashed a tire on the BMW. The steel full size spare took a hit to the curb and the tire was destroyed on the 1.5 mile limp home.
I didn't bother to pull the tire and get it replaced as I would rather ride the bike to work anyhow.

Saturday I noticed my battery was weak and only charging at 13.5 volts at 5K rpm. It needed it's liquid level topped up. Filled it up before going for a little 50 mile ride.
Got home and checked charging voltage 15+ volts at idle over 17 volts at 3K rpm.
I had ordered a just in case regulator last week with slow boat shipping ,so it won't be here till at least the end of the week . This left me between a rock and a hard place .

I could maybe take the family cage Monday, get the tire fixed Monday evening and drive my car until the regulator comes in. But that would leave my wife car less on Monday and give her the bike to blame. We all know I couldn't let that happen

So I dug out a NIB Podtronics single phase r/r that I bought to convert my old Yamaha ATV to battery. So I figure that on 3 phase output the stator is good for 350watts ,using 2 wires and getting either 1/3 or more like 1/2 of the normal output leaves me somewhere between 117.5 and 175 watts. The podtronics r/r is good for 15 amps output or 15A X 14.5v about 218 watts Max.
So running on only 2 of the 3 stator wires I should get between 9 and 13 amps of juice to run the bike and charge the battery.
Hooked everything up leaving one stator wire and the black sense wire disconnected. Starting with a weak battery 11.8v under load before starting. I fired her up and initial got 13.2 at idle and 13.6 at 5K. After running for only a minute I was getting 13.5 at idle and just over 13.8 when revved. I watched as this continued to rise even with the high beam on. I fully expect it will continue to rise to the 14.45 no load voltage that the podtronics r/r tested to. My biggest concern is the excessive load on the winnings of the stator that are feeding the r/r.
I have also ordered a 4 way voltage meter with inside? and outside temp readings as well as a clock. Until this arrives I have a small hobby voltage meter that I hooked in at the fuse box and zip tied on beside the console, at least this way I can monitor the voltage for any problems.

Wish me luck

 

So far so good, with the single phase podtronics knock off R/R. Getting 13volts at idle and 14 at 5K right after starting. Reading .2 volts or so higher after running for a while. 13.3-14.2v

Not ideal for sure but great to know it will work in a pinch and has enough power to run all the factory equipment.

R/R goes out just grab one out of any ATV or M/c with a battery and magneto. Single phase will work.

 

Stop. Stop. Stop. Go on www.roadstercycle.com and buy a real rr.

 

Given the title of the post is "Emergency regulator swap" I think it is clear that DeeBee is not advocating using a single phase R/R permanently, but if one was stuck somewhere with limited access to parts, this might be useful to keep you moving while you wait for a decent replacement to arrive.

 

Yes I see that, but I am trying to get through to him, to stop using sub par RR's and fit a proper one before he sets his bike on fire, as there is no mention of what the 17 volt rr was or what the just in case rr is. If the 17v rr was just the original rr failing and he ordered a Shindengen FH020, SH775 or SH847 for the just in case, my apologies, but I am under the impression that it is some china off brand or some something used, from a much different bike. Again that was just a guess and I am sorry if I am way off base.

 

I already had a real R/R on the way as a spare when the original went out, I believe it was overcharging when I got it as the battery had boiled about 1/3 of its water away, it wasn't until I filled it up that I started seeing 16-17 volts.

Since my car is in the shop , I had to keep the bike running ,so it was either melt down my battery or swap in what I had. Certainly didn't do it for the hell of it.

 

The emergency spare is a knockoff podtronics, the 17 volts was from the failed original. The replacement that was ordered as a spare is a generic SH785, so yes I will have to watch it closely.
Initially I planned to test it then toss it in my pack just incase.

When funds allow I plan to get one of the mosfet kits with fused wiring ,new connectors etc. Think it goes for around $120 for guaranteed name brand or about $60 for the same kit which is probably a YHC branded unit.
Same factory, but lesser parts and lower QA.

Still got to get front fork seals, and a few other odds and ends.

Edit: The generic SH 785 is due in today, if it does well I will probably go ahead and rewire my charging system, then get a real FH-020 WHEN I can.
I have a new gel cell battery coming as well.

 

Please fit a voltmeter asap. A $5 ebay meter is fine. I understand money is tight, but try to budget for the real deal fh020, sh775 or sh847. In the long run it isn't worth buying Chinese generic stuff.